collectable s&w
- Thread starter belveflowslykh20
- Start date
I don't get rid of the boxes and papers to save money really.....I get rid of them, because I have too many guns, and I don't want to use storage space for something I consider relatively worth way less to me, than the gun itself ...to me, boxes and papers are just clutter...
even if a gun is new in box ...( and I've bought a few S&W revolvers like that ) ....in every case, when I've bought them, I take the guns home, clean and lube them ...and take them to the range and put 2 or 3 boxes of ammo thru them ( I'm a gun collector / and a shooter ) ...not a box collector...
But the point I was trying to make to the OP was .....if he or she is trying to start a collection / that if you find a gun you really want - and the seller wants more for it than you want to pay because it has a box and papers...maybe you can negotiate a deal if you don't want the box and papers ( if you're a collector / shooter like me anyway ). I know its blasphemy to a lot of guys .../ but I just can't be bothered to keep all the boxes and papers...( and I have yet to sell a handgun anyway ) and I don't think I ever will...
even if a gun is new in box ...( and I've bought a few S&W revolvers like that ) ....in every case, when I've bought them, I take the guns home, clean and lube them ...and take them to the range and put 2 or 3 boxes of ammo thru them ( I'm a gun collector / and a shooter ) ...not a box collector...
But the point I was trying to make to the OP was .....if he or she is trying to start a collection / that if you find a gun you really want - and the seller wants more for it than you want to pay because it has a box and papers...maybe you can negotiate a deal if you don't want the box and papers ( if you're a collector / shooter like me anyway ). I know its blasphemy to a lot of guys .../ but I just can't be bothered to keep all the boxes and papers...( and I have yet to sell a handgun anyway ) and I don't think I ever will...
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Baba Louie
New member
belveflowslykh20, Sadly, most of the following will be out of your financial range. So... start saving now! 
(assuming all are pre lock and blue steel other than the CS-1 & 681)
3" N Frames. 5" as well. Buy them when you can.
3" L Frames. Buy them... (581 or 681 in 4" as well)
3" K Frames. 5" as well. Buy them when you can.
Anything that came with lanyard loop.
Fixed sight N Frame NYSP 520.
686 CS-1 (3").
and last but not least, any Registered Magnum.
They will all cost you. They are all worth collecting and shooting.
In your stated price range, maybe a 3" Model 10, maybe a 3" 13, maybe a 4" 586. Maybe. Saving any money yet?
Numbers following the dashes are engineering changes made at the factory. They differ with models.
At the very least, look for a model 17 or 18. Shooting .22's will help you save more money so you can buy some of the fine older S&Ws, donchaknow?
(assuming all are pre lock and blue steel other than the CS-1 & 681)
3" N Frames. 5" as well. Buy them when you can.
3" L Frames. Buy them... (581 or 681 in 4" as well)
3" K Frames. 5" as well. Buy them when you can.
Anything that came with lanyard loop.
Fixed sight N Frame NYSP 520.
686 CS-1 (3").
and last but not least, any Registered Magnum.
They will all cost you. They are all worth collecting and shooting.
In your stated price range, maybe a 3" Model 10, maybe a 3" 13, maybe a 4" 586. Maybe. Saving any money yet?
Numbers following the dashes are engineering changes made at the factory. They differ with models.
At the very least, look for a model 17 or 18. Shooting .22's will help you save more money so you can buy some of the fine older S&Ws, donchaknow?
Blind, dumb luck and a little patience can sometimes pay off.
I found two guns at Bass Pro's fine gun room about four years ago just because I happened to walk by at the right time and they had no idea what they had. I had never really actively looked for a "collectable" gun, but ended up with two fairly "collectable" guns anyway. One is a 1937 38-44 Heavy Duty with matching numbers and the other is a 1980 model 520. The 520 is missing the original grips and neither has the box, but I payed for two what you're looking to pay for one.
Don't get in a hurry and you never know what may come your way. Besides, the hunt is more than half the fun.
I found two guns at Bass Pro's fine gun room about four years ago just because I happened to walk by at the right time and they had no idea what they had. I had never really actively looked for a "collectable" gun, but ended up with two fairly "collectable" guns anyway. One is a 1937 38-44 Heavy Duty with matching numbers and the other is a 1980 model 520. The 520 is missing the original grips and neither has the box, but I payed for two what you're looking to pay for one.
Don't get in a hurry and you never know what may come your way. Besides, the hunt is more than half the fun.
highpower3006
New member
I would only add that the post war five screw guns with adjustable sights seem to be appreciating the fastest. Guns like the K22 (later called the Model 17) and K38 Masterpiece (renamed the Model 14) are still available at decent prices. Also if you can still find a K 38 Combat Masterpiece (Model 15) or a Combat Magnum (Model 19) for around $400-600.
N frame prices are going through the roof and if you find one in decent shape for much under a grand you should by it.
As was mentioned, Model 66s' are still out there and can be found at that price point.
What you really need to do is lots of research on the guns you are interested in and see what the prices are on them in your area.
1948 K22 Masterpiece:
1950 K38 Masterpiece:
1976 Model 66 no dash:
N frame prices are going through the roof and if you find one in decent shape for much under a grand you should by it.
As was mentioned, Model 66s' are still out there and can be found at that price point.
What you really need to do is lots of research on the guns you are interested in and see what the prices are on them in your area.
1948 K22 Masterpiece:
1950 K38 Masterpiece:
1976 Model 66 no dash:
Zhillsauditor
New member
Umm, which N Frames are we talking about? I can find lots of decent shape N-frames for under $1,000. I just bought a 95% N-frame for $340 last weekend. W/o box and docs or original grips
I've only paid a grand for one N frame, and that was a "Pre-27" with the original blue/gold box. And I know now, I overpaid for that one. Most all of the ones I've got I paid $750-850.00 for, depending of condition and mostly rather they have the box or not.
Not having a box won't keep me from buying one, but I will pay more for one with it. If I'm selling one with the box, which I have done, I will not "break up the set." The box without the gun, is more or less worthless. Sure someone might buy it, but with the gun with the same serial number, it's worth a lot more.
Not having a box won't keep me from buying one, but I will pay more for one with it. If I'm selling one with the box, which I have done, I will not "break up the set." The box without the gun, is more or less worthless. Sure someone might buy it, but with the gun with the same serial number, it's worth a lot more.
Winchester_73
New member
The masterpiece debuted as the K22 2nd model, so what you're talking about is basically the K22 / 40. One in your condition is already at $5k or so, without the "special features" you said would make it better. It doesn't need to be better given what you said. Maybe you meant the K22 outdoorsman aka k22 1st model. The "masterpiece" name was first used with the K22/40 aka K22 2nd model, because of the improvements in sights it had.
On average, it completely depends. Blanket statements don't teach anyone anything. I beat most mutual funds when I go to sell guns that I buy. I'm not a dealer, but I sell sometimes. I once sold an H&R 38 S&W American for $200 that I paid $35 for. I did buy it from a gun guy too, he just didn't care about it. So thats about 6x my money, show me that mutual fund?
The other key for investments is time. I had the gun less than 2 yrs, probably less than 1 year actually. Thats a really good return, 6x, for a 10 year investment when you think about it. That $200, you could say then went to Webley MK VI 455 I bought last year. It was rechambered to 45 acp via cylinder shaving, but it had the "RIC" marking. I sold that gun for about $630. That was less than 3 years total. Remember, this all started with $35, and I ended with $630. Calculate that percentage
A 100% return would be $70. Most peope won't beat the mutual funds, but you don't have to keep a gun for 15 yrs for it to appreciate in value either. For those who can do well with guns-, they do it a lot. I prefer buying guns over gold (unless of course the gold could be had for under spot). I can get my money back right away usually with guns, but since gold has the stigma of a great investment, you must pay a lot more to invest in it. Of course, I have guns that are more long term, but IMO the short term investments are best.
That kind of stuff happens a lot. To the people who question guns as investment, I leave you with this: for guns to be an investment, you must first buy right, then you must sell right. This means many different things. The average guy pays $647 (just an example) for a new Remington model 700, and then doesn't like it, and sells it to an FFL / individual for $300 because he needs money, doesn't like the gun, lost his job, wrecked his truck, got a fine, etc. So the majority of people do neither, and then many others buy right and sell wrong and vice versa. Few people do both right. This post is the secret. The secret is out! Good luck!
As for the OPs question, patience is paramount. S&Ws are hot right now, but there were so many made, and the economy is so bad, that the deals are out there. Beyond P&R, which are actually common, I would look for 5 screws (maybe 4 screws if you can find them) and more specifically, good, pre war 5 screws. People love (such as me) the pre WWII 5 screw guns. Many different ones, most are collectible, and few have both condition and originality. Condition is important, but so is rarity. Remember that the 3 factors that determine a gun's value are not condition condition condition which most people would have you believe, its more accurately: condition, rarity, and demand. You basically want a gun thats strong in all 3 areas, which is very hard to find. A good example of a S&W that is strong in all areas would be a 95% S&W Registered Magnum. Of course, thats way out of your range, but guns can be found in your price range that have strength in all 3 categories, but surely at least two. Best of luck you in your search. Remember you can ask the TFL if you find something to see what the consensus opinion is. There is a lot of knowledge about many different guns here on the TFL.
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