collectable s&w

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belveflowslykh20

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im looking to buy a collectable not extremely expensive s&w, around the 600-800 dollar range however i dont have any specific model in mind nor do i know what the dashes mean or which dash model to look for any help would be great thanks...
 
my first was a 66 NO DASH....Dash's mean later models IE 66-1 came after 66
and 66-2 came after 66-1 etc etc

Models 66s,19s,28s loads to ponder over,29s 629s
I go to Gunbroker and type in 357 Mag and eat my heart out
 
With Smith and Wesson revolvers, if you want something collectable look for a pinned and recessed variant if the revolver you want is a magnum caliber. If it’s not a magnum caliber look for a pinned barrel variant. Any of the classic K frames are a great start on any collection, or better yet a classic N frame. Currently K frames are somewhat more affordable than the N frames. As one old line S&W collector told me, “Never buy a gun you have to make excuses for”.
 
>im looking to buy a collectable not extremely expensive s&w, around the 600-800 dollar range however i dont have any specific model in mind nor do i know what the dashes mean or which dash model to look for any help would be great thanks...

My 2 cents are:

Condition, condition, condition. Also, box and docs.

Other than that, I don't know. I only collect to shoot.
 
For a gun in that price range I would look for a special edition of a common gun. They normally sell for about the same price as a standard issue and may return a better price in the future. I picked up a Texas Ranger Model 19 for the same price of a standard 19. With the case it looks like a collectible without the big price. Once you start you will not quit. A drug habit might be less expensive. At least hand guns are legal for now.
 
Collecting as an investment is not a good idea. On average you'll get a better return from stocks or mutual funds.

If you're collecting for your own pleasure then condition, rarity, and uniqueness are what you're looking for.
A pre-WWII pre-K-22 Masterpiece in 100% condition, with box and papers, and in a rare configuration for example. If it happens to be associated with a famous person or event, all the better.

There are K-frames that aren't being made anymore eg the model 12, 13, 19. A pristine example of one of those will increase in value over the very long run. But once again a stock that returns 7.5% doubles every ten years iirc. I doubt the value of any of those guns will double in the same time frame.
 
I strongly recommend against buying any of the "commemorative" or special guns like "Whoville Police". They very rarely exceed in value the standard gun of the same type in the same condition.

For investment (not using), you might consider the older S&W's; guns like the No. 3 American or Schofield are way out of that price range, but you can get nice .38 single actions, or other breaktops in that range. S&W breaktops are not very collectible in general because most are in poor shape, but one in LNIB condition is a jewel and very collectible.

Jim
 
I would look for a older model 27 with a 3.5 inch barrel. They are not common and will cost you around $700.
Good luck,
Howard
 
"I would look for a older model 27 with a 3.5 inch barrel. They are not common and will cost you around $700.
Good luck,
Howard "

I agree with Howard. The S&W model 27 is the apotheosis (I haven't used that word in decades) of the classic .357 magnum. While firearms are not necessarily always a good investment, the model 27 has been trending upward and is a hoot to shoot as well. Can be had in your price range. They don't make them like that any more, and that is a fact. Another bet would be a 1917 .45 acp revolver with US markings. You are at the lower end of the price scale on that.
 
With the numbered guns the dash tells you how many changes smith has made to that numbered line. The lower the number the older the pistol example, a model 10 no dash will be the oldest of the model 10s, the model 10-10 means there have been 10 changes made (usually internal)in the model 10 line. How ever being S&W the numbered guns had a gun with a name that came first. Like The Highway Patrolman became the model 28 in 1957 even though it had been in production since April of 1954, the 357 Combat Magnum became a model 19, .38 M&P to a M.10, K38 target masterpiece to a M.14 and so on down the line. The main thing to be watching for is condition of whatever you decide you want. For an example a Model 15 in 60-65% condition will be around $200.00, in 98% it's up to $500-700.00 original box with the matching serial number on it and the tools and papers that came with it from the factory will bring extra. If you wish to learn more about S&W's go to the S&W Forum and read, lots to learn from those fellow.
 
+1 on James K's advice, avoid commemoratives, though if you actually do find a Dr. Seuss Whoville Police model, then you should buy it.

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You could get a nice adjustable sighted model 27 in .357 mag. Or the same revolver as the 27 but just not as polished is the model 28. Or a model 29. Making sure all of those are the older ones with the recessed cylinder chambers where the rims fit down into the chamber flush, rather than sit on top of the chambers like they do today. Or go older and get a 1917 (which is my favorite). All three are N frames, built like a Russian T34 tank, will outlast you and your greatgrandchildren and hardly anything ever breaks.



.
 
M-27 with the 3 1/2" barrel have gone through the roof lately. A solid but well used refinished 3 1/2" M-27 just closed on Gun Broker for almost a grand. I recently offered $750.00 for one in about the same condition and the seller almost laughed at my offer. They have gotten so expensive that I've stopped looking for one at what I feel is a decent price.

I know I would not sell either my 5 or 6 inch M-27 for what the O/P has to spend.
 
"I strongly recommend against buying any of the "commemorative" or special guns like "Whoville Police". They very rarely exceed in value the standard gun of the same type in the same condition."


This is the common thought, so most of the commemorative guns are being used as shooters. It won't take long before it will be hard to find a good gun in new in box condition. I believe that those guns will be worth more. I also agree that stocks and bonds will give a better return on investment. The last time I opened my safe I did not show my friends a good looking stock certificate, but I did show them my like new in box Python.
 
I would look for a older model 27 with a 3.5 inch barrel. They are not common and will cost you around $700.
Good luck,
Howard
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You cannot go wrong with this. I wish I had the box and papers though.

27-2, 3.5" barrel

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5" Model 27's are nice too.

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Condition however is everything. At least for me, they don't have to be unfired. I'm going to shoot them anyway, at least a few times. You can use a gun, but you don't have to drag it behind a truck.

Model 29-2, 44 Magnum, 4" barrel.

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Nice grips, especially factory grips can make or break a gun. Target hammers and target triggers are nice too. At least I think so. Others don't agree.

Don't overlook all of the newer guns though. While it might not be a "collector" gun yet, it is a very nice gun made in limited quanities, and will become one one day. Even if it doesn't, it's a fun gun to have and to shoot.

Model 21-4, "Thunder Ranch" edition, in 44 Special.

(Yes, it does have "the lock.")

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If you think all the information you've gotten here is confusing, pick up a copy of the "Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson." It's a mind boggling encyclopedia of Smith & Wesson with more information than you can shake a stick at.
 
Any "K" or "N" frame in d[e]cent shape.
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Second best answer yet. :)
If you think all the information you've gotten here is confusing, pick up a copy of the "Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson." It's a mind boggling encyclopedia of Smith & Wesson with more information than you can shake a stick at.
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First best answer. :D

My $0.02...

N frame prices have already climbed pretty high; you can't touch most N frames in my area at the prices quoted in the Standard Catalog (a new edition is probably needed, but I digress). Will they go higher? Not sure. My hunch is "yes" on the prewar and transitional models, but many of the recent-production guns already seem to be too high to me. YMMV. :D

IMHO the two current hot categories of S&W collecting that still have a reasonable admission price seem to be (a) dash-2 and older K frame .38Spl Target (i.e. adjustable rear sight) models, which are much less common than the -3 and later versions, and (b) pre-1990s I/J frame Target models.
 
I just bought a very nice m28 at a show recently, then turned the corner and found a pre-model 25 in very, very good condition (no box or docx though). They guy was asking $850, which probably means I could have beat him down to $750. I started to make an offer, the realized I had just spent $340 on the m28. I told him I'd make an offer on it, but he might accept and then I'd have to tell him I didn't have the cash!
 
S&W N Frames ...in .357 mag...model 27's will hold their valuable ...and will probably remain in the "collectable" category for many years...especially in a no dash, a dash 1 , or dash 2...

The model 27's in 4" ...in blued can still be affordable in that price range / maybe a Nickel finish if you get very lucky ...if you find someone that has had it for a long time..and is tired of it.

Having or getting boxes and papers on some of these older guns....is overblown in my opinion ( I wouldn't pay extra for them / and when I find a gun with them / I'll often ask for a discount on the gun - and let the seller keep the papers and the box )...but I'm more of a shooter than a collector even though I have well over a dozen S&W revolvers ( K, L and N frames primarily ).
 
Having or getting boxes and papers on some of these older guns....is overblown in my opinion ( I wouldn't pay extra for them / and when I find a gun with them / I'll often ask for a discount on the gun - and let the seller keep the papers and the box )...but I'm more of a shooter than a collector
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Yes. A collector is going to pay a premium for the box and docs. A shooter like myself, doesn't really care. However, I would not purposely separate the two items, even to save some money. I also don't throw away or sell the original grips on my S&Ws, although I always replace them.
 
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