CLP and Gun Oil

R

Roland Thunder

New member
Do you feel that if you clean your gun with a CLP like Breakfree, G96 Gun Treatment, etc. that you should still use a gun oil to lube the gun or do feel there is no need to use a gun oil if you use a CLP.
 
Since CLP is a lubricant, as long as you don't wipe all of it off after using it to clean, you don't need to add more.
Ideally, you'd wipe as much off as possible to remove the fouling/dirty CLP mix, then apply a little more where needed.

You really get a better job by using a dedicated bore solvent to clean all the fouling off, then use a lubricant.
CLP works to Clean, Lubricate, and Preserve, but it's best as a lubricant/preservative.

Bore solvents work much faster and do a deeper cleaning.
CLP does not have much of any effect on copper fouling. In pistols copper fouling isn't as big a problem as in rifles, but a dedicated bore solvent will keep it in check. CLP won't.
 
Personally, Ballistol is what I like to clean my guns with. I use M-Pro 7 bore solvent for the barrel. I bought some Lucas Oil gun oil today, wondered if it's overkill.
 
I've used Breakfree CLP for years without any rusting problems. Recently bought a DW with Duty Coat on it and they warn that solvents will wash off the paint or whatever it is they color it with, now gotta keep other products to use on the DW. I'll try the new stuff on my other guns too. If it works I'll switch.
 
"...solvents will wash off the paint or whatever it is..." Lotta stuff does that. Plain white vinegar will strip bluing to bare metal. That includes whatever it is Ruger puts on the GP 100. Bluing it ain't.
"...to lube the gun..." Oil is not used to lube the entire piece. Grease is used on metal to metal mating parts like slide rails. Oil is used on the rest to prevent rust.
 
For whatever its worth: My cleaning method for the past sixty years or so has been to clean bore, chambers, and exterior of fouling/soot/lubricant residue/leading with Hoppe's No. 9 Solvent. Wipe that off and coat the gun with my mixture of 50/50 motor oil and Three In One machine oil. Coat heavily with oil then wipe down with a soft cloth or shop towel. Bore and chambers lightly oiled.

Works for me these past years, won't deviate now.


Bob Wright
 
To each, his own !!!

Do you feel that if you clean your gun with a CLP like Breakfree, G96 Gun Treatment, etc. that you should still use a gun oil to lube the gun or do feel there is no need to use a gun oil if you use a CLP.
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I really cannot find anything wrong with your application, even though it differs from mine. You can be more selective when dealing with handguns, long guns, actions and service. ...:)

It's common for us to get stuck and get good performance with one brand and technique. The only bad habit I encounter, is most folks use too much lube. .. ;)

Be Safe !!!
 
The CLP I use - Strike Hold - goes on wet, then the carrier evaporates, so I use it as "CP", and then "L" conventionally with grease or oil.
I used Break Free for many years, and never had any complaints, but I now keep it in my range bag for emergencies when I don't have access to my usual gear (so I don't have to get ATF out of my car if I'm out of oil, not that there's anything wrong with ATF, either).
 
I use CLP and shooters choice silicone grease for ‘sloppy fit’ applications like rails.
The grease collects crud and has to be changed often. Maybe i’m Doing it wrong, but nothing has blowed up yet.
 
I use Breakfree CLP for cleaning and lubing all sorts of firearms. It works. Some people might insist on using other various products but that doesn't disprove that CLP works as intended.

I usually clean an relube after shooting 500 to 1,000 rounds in a handgun or .22 rifle. If I was going to shoot 5,000 rounds between cleanings I might alter my lube habits.
 
Breakfree CLP for me too - except for high-stress mating parts that get a dab of grease (like slides and rifle locking lugs).
 
I have used Breakfree CLP as a lubricant for decades with no issues.

About the only times I use anything else are grease on pistol slide rails and some specific applications where recommended on some rifles.
 
Lots of good answers here.

FWIW, I keep cleaning simple with a polymer-safe aerosol spray (for everything except the bore) and a soft cotton shop towel and Hoppes' #9 (bore-cleaning only). Lubrication these days is BreakFree LP or, in a pinch, a few drops of Mobil 1 5w50.
 
I've been using break free CLP on pretty much everything for a while now. It satisfies me. I do use Hoppes #9 in the barrels before a pass with CLP. I'm a simple guy, though. To be honest, I was taught to use wd-40 on my stuff as a kid and it worked, but I don't still use it. The one exception is an aluminum framed pistol. I use lithium grease on the rails for that one. Don't know if it makes a difference, but that's what I do.
 
I've used various combination cleaner/lubricant products. I never really had a problem with any of them but a few years ago, I decided to reduce the toxicity of my EDC gear. This meant cleaning separately and applying non-toxic lubrication. I've been using Lubriplate FMO 350-AW on revolvers and pocket knives for a while now.

I first heard of this product in an article by Grant Cunningham. While old, I think it's still a valuable read for anyone interested in gun lube.

https://www.grantcunningham.com/2006/05/lubrication-101

In the years since that article was written, a company called Lubrikit has made getting the stuff in reasonable sizes a lot easier. They have a few other varieties available but I've been very happy with the original FMO 350-AW and SFL-0.

http://lubrikit.com
 
Last time I looked, I noticed different lubes/oils that I have, including: RemOil, BreakFree CLP, Gibbs CLP, Eezox, Ed Brown lubricant, Militec-1, Mobil One 10W-30 full synthetic, and a couple of others I can't recall off the top of my head. And that's not including some greases for storage, bore solvent, etc.

To date, I've never had a gun that rusted in my possession (I have bought a couple with light rust spots) or that failed to function due to poor lubrication. I certainly have participated in my share of lube/cleaner threads but sometimes we tend to obsess over this when it's really unnecessary.
 
72 years old, and been cleaning, lubricating, and protecting guns for 60+ of them. I find it funny how everybody glams onto all the wonderful new miracle cleaners and lubricants. While since the same Hoppe's products as I received in a Christmas present cleaning kit many years ago have cleaned, libricated, and protected my guns quite well for all those years.
Yes, I have tried many of the modern "wonder" products. But haven't found them better at anything than Hoppe's. I also have never noticed one tiny bit of damage to the finish of my guns when the old classic products are properly used.
 
shurshot said:
Yep, I was brought up on Hoppes #9, works great and I love the smell. Works for me.
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However, when I was shooting trap some years ago, I found that Hoppies #9 DID NOT remove the fouling from the plastic wads. So, I switched to Shooter's Choice which turned the plastic deposits into a "mush" that was easily removed from my Browning BT-99's barrel. To be fair, that was years ago, so I do not know if Hoppies changed their formula to accommodate the use of plastic wads in shot shells or not.
 
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