Cleaning

Rainbow Six, yes you're correct that is what i read. i read it over and it said not to get any oil in the chamber. how do you lubricate the barrel but not the chamber? if you push a patch thru the barrel it will also go thru the chamber won't it?

also i still don't get all this with different types of liquids to use. i know i need a solvent for the bore and a lubricant but what else do i need to use? i need something to just clean the whole gun up right? should it be a spray or in a bottle?
 
Russel92 - just a short clarification on oil in the chamber. As Rainbow Six said, don't leave any oil/lube in or around the chamber. The keyword is leave. It's ok to oil the chamber, but you should remove it as much as possible before shooting. Handguns and rifles depend on friction between the casing and the chamber to create a proper seal and to prevent the casing from slamming back heavily on the bolt. If the chamber is oily, that friction is obviously much lower. If you plan to store your gun unloaded for a while, a light film of oil in the chamber is recommended. Just wipe it out with a chamber swab and a little degreaser before loading and firing.

[This message has been edited by Mal H (edited April 24, 2000).]
 
I lube the barrel and the chamber very lightly, then I run a dry patch through the chamber and barrel. I finish with a tight fitting patch in the chamber to get all excess oil out of the chamber and first 1/8" or so of the barrel.

As for cleaning fluids, it's a matter of choice. I use Butch's Bore Shine for removing the copper/powder fouling in the chamber and bore, Shooters' Choice cleaning solvent and either a nylon brush or a patch on metal parts like the slide/cylinder/bolt, and Simple Green and hot water for my Glock frames. I use Break Free CLP to wipe down exterior metal parts and Butch's Gun Oil on internal lube points. I use a little Shooters' Choice High Tech grease on the bolt lugs of my rifle.

You'll get as many cleaning suggestions as there are replies. Good luck deciphering all this.
biggrin.gif



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R6...aka...Chris
 
what is simple green and what exactly does it do to the guns? is it designed for cleaning guns? where can i get it?

also could someone explain the different types of breakfree to me? what is breekfee CLP? i know they make solvents, lubricants and cleaners but what's the name for each?
 
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Lavan:
1. A brass brush down the bore (from breech if possible)

2. An oily mop in and out once.

3. Wipe feed ramp with oily rag that is black from using for abt 3 yrs.

Put away gun.[/quote]

This is the best one yet.
Remember: Keep It Super Simple!



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johnnyb
A slow hit beats a fast miss.
 
Russell92, Simple Green is a concentrated detergent one can purchase at Wal-Mart, Sam's Club, etc. I wash my cars with it and remove oil stains from the driveway.

BreakFree CLP (cleaner, lubricant, presertive) is a military-specification all-purpose gun solvent/lube. Good stuff. I found two pints of the military-labeled stuff at a surplus store for $1. They sit beside the other pint (commercial) I purchased in ~1981.

[This message has been edited by TEXAS LAWMAN (edited April 24, 2000).]
 
do most of you spray your guns with something when you are cleaning them. i used to spray WD-40 over the whole gun but now some of you told me i shouldn't.

what i mean is shouldn't i use some sort of spray on thing that i can spray the whole gun with and then also use some sort of cleaner in a bottle that i could dip a toothbrush in and just scrub at the dirty parts of the gun?

what would fill these 2 roles well?
 
RUS92, spraying your guns with WD40 won't hurt them. But WD is just a water-displacing (& penetrating) lubricant and cleaner. It is by no means a preservative. BreakFree CLP does it all.
 
is BreakFree CLP in a spray bottle or a jar? what i mean is i need a liquid to spray on the guns and i also need something to dip a toothbrush in and scrub them with don't i???

what should i use along with BreakFree CLP to clean my guns?
 
Russel, relax, take a deep breath, and reread the posts. To make things easy I will list the basics


Hoppes #9

CLP in a plastic squeeze bottle

A degreaser such as Simple Green or Gun scrubber (Not necessary but it helps when you have extremely dirty guns and not a lot of time).

I clean and lube all my guns using Hoppes and CLP sparingly. When I'm done they are as brand new. Everyone I now who lubes their guns with CLP uses the squeeze bottle. And remember when lubing your gun, less is more.
 
ok i understand about the barrel now but i'm still a bit confused about the rest of the gun (sorry guys i'm a bit slow ;-)).

does this sound like a good idea:

spray the rest of the gun down with something like Gun Scrubber and then use Breakfree CLP on the dirty parts and scrub those parts with a toothbrush, dry the whole gun down, and then use some kind of lubrication on the parts needed it.
 
I'd forget about the spray cleaners and just get a good nylon brush and use Break Free CLP on everything but the bore unless you have a polymer frame. I'd recommend Simple Green and hot water on polymer frames.

For *ANY* metal part:

Just take a nylon brush (old tooth brush works fine for me) and put a few good drops of CLP on the bristles. Simply work the CLP vigorously into the surface of all metal parts using circular motions and then set them aside and let them soak for several minutes while you clean the bore, or even over night. Then take a dry, clean cotton rag or some clean patch material and simply wipe away the CLP. You will see that the CLP really cleans the metal surfaces as evidenced by the brown/black crud you wipe off with it.

The CLP will also leave a nice clean new look and excellent corrosion protection on the finish of the slide and metal frame. I haven't found anything else that makes my Glocks look as deep black as CLP. It also keeps my SIG P220 looking brand new.

FWIW, my opinion after trying aerosol spray cleaners, you can save a considerable amount of money by going to Wal Mart and buying cheap aerosol brake parts cleaner. I couldn't tell any difference between $3 a can brake cleaner and $8 a can "gun cleaner" when I tried them side by side after being told by a gunsmith that they were one in the same.

Now, to recap, all you need to clean and maintain your metal gun parts will be CLP, a nylon brush and the bore cleaning supplies of your choice, as described in the above posts. :)



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Georgia TFL'ers get together:
May 20, 2000-From 3pm to 6pm
http://www.wolfcreek-gun.com
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R6...aka...Chris

[This message has been edited by Rainbow Six (edited April 26, 2000).]
 
Is it just me, or does that Break Free stuff really reek! Smells like it was designed to grow tumors or something. I bought a can of it several months ago, and only used it once when it made my gun smell carcinogenic.

Didn't want to touch the stuff without a HazMat suit, and it wrecked the beautiful scent synergy between that cheepo KleenBore oil I use, and my silicone gun cloth. Third best smell in the world :D, after that of a spent magazine. Does Glade sell airfreshners of this stuff? <G>

Don't know what version it is, is this CLP stuff everyone seems to love the perfumed version?

[This message has been edited by Mr. Pink (edited April 26, 2000).]

[This message has been edited by Mr. Pink (edited April 26, 2000).]
 
I was quite surprised when I found out that Gun Scrubber not only dissolves toothbrush plastic, it dissolves my MTM portable rifle cradle/maintenance stand.
 
that doesn't make me very confident on gun scrubber!!!!! i mentioned it in my post because i just found a bottle of it around.

also i still have pleanty of WD-40 that i would have used on my guns.

will it hurt any if i use it along with Breakfree CLP as long as i clean it all off afterwards?
 
HA! You call that clean! After every firing session, I put the barrel in a vice a leave a carbide brush attached to a drill running in it for 4 hours. Afterward, I clean it with a mild sulfuric acid solution. Sure, I have to re-rifle the barrel after every cleaning, but the gun is as reliable as all get out, and after a few cleanings, I can use a larger caliber in the gun.

Heck, I've got an old .22 that now fires .50's. Too bad I gotta use a hammer to load the thing. It shoot's 1/2" groups at 3 miles thanks to the methylated pig grease that I lubricate it with.

Ooof! It's 2am. I need sleep.
 
I sense sarcasm...

;)

Mike


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"A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion, butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders, give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects." -Robert Heinlein
 
Don't dismiss Gun Scrubber just because it dissolves toothbrushes. That just means you'll need something better - like a dedicated gun-cleaning brush.

I see Gun Scrubber as a Godsend for cleaning a Glock. I prefer to strip the frame completely, then blast it out w/GS. Done. 30 seconds. It evaporates completely, and you don't have to do anything else to the plastic. Just don't do it indoors, because you end up with a sooty puddle on the ground.
 
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