cleaning rod?

I use brass and aluminum -- a lot softer than the barrel material; if I accidentally hit the crown with it, it most likely will not hurt.
 
I like plain steel, one piece rods for the simple reason that they don't pick up grit (sand, primer residue, dirt etc.). It's essential to keep any cleaning rod from touching the muzzle crown as that, more than any other factor, will destroy the built in accuracy of the barrel. Brass and/or aluminum rods pic up dirt and grit, so I avoid them. This little bit of maintenance info I picked up at Camp Perry from the USMC Rifle Team armorer. He and the team members also used muzzle protectors described below.

I make up muzzle protectors for use with my rods from cut off bottle neck rifle cartridges. You cut off the head, then slip the brass cartridge case over your cleaning rod, allowing the cast to enter the muzzle as you brush or patch out the bore. Simple, effective in protecting this vital area from the file like wear that a cleaning rod rubbing on the crown can produce.

You select the cartridge case based on slipping it over the rod and also the case neck's ability to slip inside the crown. For instance, a .30-30 case works well with any of the .357's, .40's, or .44/45's. A 5.56mm or .223 case works well with any .30 cal. barrel if you have a skinny enough cleaning rod.

With .22's, I'm damned careful to keep the rod from touching the crown on rifle as well as hand gun.

HTH's Rod
 
Though most of my cleaning rods are steel and one-piece, I don't think the material they're made of is of all that importance so long as you are careful and judicious in their use. Though steel is more rigid and less likely to flex during the travel down the bore (especially if one-piece and not jointed-a factor more important when cleaning rifles as opposed to handguns) and is not prone to having dirt embedded in the material (a common complaint when the material is brass or aluminum), it is harder than brass or aluminum and, therefore, harder on the barrel if misused.
As rodfac noted, being "careful and judicious" mostly means avoiding scraping the crown at the muzzle with the rod. I would add that it's best to clean from the breech whenever possible.
 
Not a cleaning rod at all, but a bore "snake"! Extruded metal tubing against your bore has a negative effect on its polish. The "snake" delivers the solvent cleaner and/or oil saturation. It also has brass brush embedded. Always enter if possible from chamber and not muzzle. Protect the muzzle opening each time you clean. Leave the barrel bore dry if you intend to use it again in a reasonable period of time. It you store your firearm for an indefinite period of time, use a slight oil in the bore, then clean out on your first fire for accuracy.
 
I use brass rods. The one I really like is an old Parker Hale rod, with a wooden handle and only the last couple of inches rotate, the rod is fixed in the handle.

And I use brass jags instead of slotted tips. I use a smaller than bore size jag to saturate the bore with Hoppe's No. 9. After that works for awhile, a few passes with a stainless steel bore brush, then dry with a tight fitting patch on a bore size jag. Then oil with my 50/50 mix of motor oil and Three-In-One oil.

For chambers, I use a brass rod like the old G.I. rod for the .45 Pistol.

And before y'all jump on me for using stainless steel brushes, note that I've been using this method going on fifty years or more with no sign of harm.

Bob Wright
 
Handguns.....Stainless steel
Rifles.....one piece spring steel.
Shotguns...brass
Got tired of multi piece brass, or aluminim rods breaking at the threads.
I use bore guides, proper technique and caution. So I have little worry about damaging the bore, or crown.
 
what about coated cleaning rod - coat over stainless steel? will it scratch the bore?
and if the handle of rod comes separate from rod and you just attach the rod to the handle and it is 1 rod piece is that any good?
 
A ding in the crown will cause a lose in accuracy, from the cleaning rod or a bang, use a muzzle guide when you can't clean from the chamder. Even cleaning from the chamber you should clean with a chamber guide to center the rod in the barrel.
 
I use stainless steel and a muzzle protector.

From what I know every material sucks if it comes in contact with the muzzle crown or bore in general, because steel is hard enough to damage it and brass/wood/aluminum/whatnot picks up grit which will also damage it.

A muzzle protector is a very good idea whatever you're using.
 
I still don't get this -suppose the rod comprises of 1 handle and 1 piece and that handle can be detached from rod is that considered 1 piece rod or not?
 
The rod is one piece you cannot remove the handle, just order the right length. The coating on a coated rod is nylon, softer then steel.
 
quote - The rod is one piece you cannot remove the handle--------------
what does this mean exactly? does it mean 1 piece rod is a rod where handle cannot be detached from the rod piece and the rod piece itself must be 1 piece?
 
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Otis system. Works very well for 95%+ of my cleaning.
I still have a Tipton carbon rod around for the occasional mishap or to REALLY scrub a barrel when selling.
I also had an approximately .25" brass-rod around for if things went really wrong, but it got bent in a move and subsequently trashed.
 
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