Cleaning question?!?

I’m sure I have used every chemical or mechanical means known to man to clean the “ring” from my stainless revolvers. I now live with the “ring” and life is so much better now.
 
Ed's Red Bore Cleaner and a stiff toothbrush .

Ed's Red is mix it up yourself bore cleaner , get the 4 ingredients at wally mart , under $20.00 will get you a gallon of bore solvent that works.
Just do a search for the recipe and don't use synthetic ATF , some brands will not mix with the other ingredients .

Gary
 
#9, Q-tips and wooden tooth picks. Sometimes I recycle new ones (tooth picks)I'm done with post dinner into a revolver cleaning activity. Ha !

.02. David. :)
 
I consider the discoloring rings on the front of the cylinder a sign of a revolver worth shooting... BTW, have you tried Ed's Red home mix bore cleaner solution. It's amazing and cheap...

Tony
 
The only time I would remove the carbon rings on the front of a stainless steel cylinder (never a blued gun), is if I was going to sell it and wanted it to be in as pristine shape as possible. Then I would use a scotch-brite pad.
 
For some reason, I never get carbon rings on the front of the cylinders of my revolvers that I shoot with Black Powder.
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That's mainly because BP doesn't burn hot enough to produce caked on carbon deposits (either 572* F or 867* F - depending on the source) on the cylinder face. Smokelees OTOH, burns at about 3300 * F.
 
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All of my guns get a quick wipe down, and usually a patch run through the bore, prior to going back into the safe. I do take better care of my carry piece, checking it at least weekly if I've not fired it.

I find that S&W's have tighter cylinder gaps that sometimes require cleaning. In that case, I use an old 12 ga. bronze brush, dipped in Ed's Red or Hoppe's to lightly scrub the cylinder face and the barrel forcing cone face. I also use a tooth brush or a military M16 tooth brush to scrub out the ejector star and its cylinder recess. This after most any firing whatsoever.

I have one Smith, a model 18 in nearly new condition, that needs a brush run through each of the cylinder chambers as well as the barrel each time it's been fired...if I neglect this, it won't eject properly after as few as 18 rounds. I've polished the cylinder chambers with JB Bore Paste on a patch to polish them with some success however. The fix, some say, is to have them honed for better ejection. Locally, I have a gunsmith that could possibly do the work, but....the gun is superbly accurate...as good as my '70's Model 41 Smith in fact...and I hate to tinker with that kind of performance.

HTH's Rod
 
Geezerbiker said:
I consider the discoloring rings on the front of the cylinder a sign of a revolver worth shooting... BTW, have you tried Ed's Red home mix bore cleaner solution. It's amazing and cheap...

Tony
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You betcha ! For those who have never tried it here's the original formula :

Equal Parts ( 1 quart of each , from wally mart , will cost under $20.00 for 1 gallon)

1 part Dexron II, IIe, or III Automatic Transmission Fluid - GM Spec D20265 or later , do not use synthetic transmission fluid...it will not blend with the other ingredients.

1 part K1 Kerosene

1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits Spec TT-T-2981F (CAS# 64741-49-9) , a.k.a. "oderless mineral spirits" . Do not substitute "Paint Thinner" or Turpentine... it leaves a gummy residue .

1 part Acetone (CAS# 67-64-1)

If you use the proper ingredients you will have an excellent bore cleaner / solvent , making substitutions is not recommended.

I tried using Hurricane (kerosene lamp) Lamp and Tiki Lamp fuel for the K1 Kerosene ...it didn't work...stay with the proper ingredients. Found K1 Kerosene in the paint department of wally mart...
The other things labeled as lamp fuel or lamp oil they just suck rocks , don't try it , get the K1 Kerosene and GM ATF non synthetic .
Gary
 
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