Cleaning question?!?

H

hot chili powder

New member
What do you all use to clean the carbon crud off the front of the cylinder, top of frame and around the forcing cone? I been using lead removing cloth but thought there may be something better, any suggestions? I hate that crud, especially on my stainless Vaquero.
 
Why use an abrasive? Wipe down with a solvent and call it good. Actual "crud" can be removed with dental picks.
 
If Hoppes No.9 and an old toothbrush won't take it off it doesn't need to come off. No abrasives needed. That's especially true of the cylinder face; the burn marks just come back when you shoot it again so what's the point.
 
Howdy

I've said this a bazillion times. If you are trying to clean the carbon rings off the front of the cylinder of a revolver, you don't own enough revolvers.

No matter what you do, every time you fire the revolver, the rings will return. Once you own enough revolvers you will stop trying to clean off the carbon rings on the front of the cylinder, they don't hurt anything*


*Or, you could try shooting Black Powder through your revolvers. For some reason, I never get carbon rings on the front of the cylinders of my revolvers that I shoot with Black Powder.
 
ALL of the above is fine for stainless guns.
However- if you have a blued gun, Lead Away, Scotchbrite, etc., will remove the bluing immediately.
 
If you are trying to clean the carbon rings off the front of the cylinder of a revolver, you don't own enough revolvers.
Click to expand...
Truer words were never spoken. The only time I would bother, on a stainless steel revolver, is if I were going to sell it. I wouldn't try it on a blued revolver because, as Bill said, "f you have a blued gun, Lead Away, Scotchbrite, etc., will remove the bluing immediately." I would just scrub with powder solvent and a nylon toothbrush.
 
I use Hoppes 9 and bronze brush on my 686 but don't spend a lot of time on it. I do spend time cleaning behind the extractor and the charging holes .
 
I used a lead removing cloth a couple of times and it worked great. Ultimately, along with Driftwood’s and others thoughts, it really just didn’t make sense to fight that losing battle after every range session.
 
I've said this a bazillion times. If you are trying to clean the carbon rings off the front of the cylinder of a revolver, you don't own enough revolvers.

No matter what you do, every time you fire the revolver, the rings will return. Once you own enough revolvers you will stop trying to clean off the carbon rings on the front of the cylinder, they don't hurt anything*
Click to expand...
Yup.

On a stainless revolver, use a nitro solvent with a brass/bronze toothbrush to clean the front of the cylinder and the frame around the forcing cone. Anything that doesn't come off in a few minutes of brushing can stay.

You're not doing yourself or the gun any favors by putting anymore work than that into it. No reason to use abrasives like lead-away cloths or similar approaches. Maybe if you're getting ready to sell the gun or take a picture of it and want it to look absolutely spotless--but cleaning it off between range trips is a waste of time and effort.
 
BoreTech carbon remover and 0000 Steel wool makes them all shiny and new looking again. Works on blued guns too as long as you don't get crazy aggressive and let the BoreTech do the work.
 
Revolver cleaning

I agree that cleaning the cylinder face is not necessary. But if you want it clean, use a little Flitz polish and a brass brush. Carbon comes off easily.
 
I accidentally found a little navy jelly on the tip of a Q-Tip takes it right off with stainless steel or nickel finish. Do not use on blued or some other finishes.
 
"...will remove the bluing immediately..." 0000 steel wool won't do that.
SS is comparatively soft stuff, but as mentioned you don't need anything special to clean it. Regular solvent and a brass/bronze brush will do. And it'll still be stained. SS is just like that.
 
Will be tuff, but I'll try

Ok, you have semi-convinced me, will try NOT to clean cylinder face after shooting. Guess I thought everyone did it that way, I may be nuts about clean guns........will change my ways if I can!!:eek:
 
I cleaned them back to like new appearance for a lot of years and a lot of rounds. I finally realized it was only wasting my time--now it's a lot more fun to shoot knowing I'm not going to have to try to make the gun look brand new after every range trip.

I still clean the gun to remove fouling, but after some solvent and brushing, anything that doesn't come off the front of the cylinder stays.
 
On stainless steel cylinders I use Bore Tech C4 Carbon Remover, or Brownell's D'Solve diluted 5 parts water to 1 part D'Solve. Both seem to work, but the diluted D'Solve seems to work better/faster for me. Those products do most of the work and don't require as much scrubbing or abrasives.

I have not tried either product on Blued, Nickel, or Anodized Aluminum parts so I would check with the manufacturer before using those products on those finishes/materials (they may damage those finishes if used on them).
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top