Cleaning a Hawken

All I've ever shot in my single shot muzzleloaders is real blackpowder and all I've ever used to clean them for 20+ years is Hoppes #9 plus Blackpowder Solvent.

C&Bs and BP cartridge guns get Balistol, hot water and Birchwood Casey BP solvent.
 
I'm another long time muzzleloader who uses plain water for cleanup followed by WD-40 to displace the water, followed by annointing the barrel with a more long lasting rust preventer like RIG.
 
+1 to just about everything that's been said - I've used hot water for years. If I'm not going to shoot for a while, I'll use hot water and maybe add a little soap. Afterwards, I make sure all is completely dry and then use WD-40. Everyone has their own opinions on that as stated - I've used it for years with no sludge or "gunk" - it works for me and I'm a whole lot happier spending the money on WD-40 than some high priced "speciality" product that doesn't work any better. If I can remove the barrel from the stock - such as a patent breech or a military musket by removing the barrel bands and tang screw, I put the breech in a bucket of water, use several patches on a jag and pump the ramrod up and down like a piston which will draw the water in and push it out the barrel. After initial cleaning, I change to fresh hot water. If it is a "pinned" barrel, I usually remove the lock and I have a plastic tube and adapter to screw in after removing the vent on a flinter or a nipple on a percussion. At the end of a shooting season (NSSA when I shot that), I'd remove the breech plug and do a complete cleaning before putting away for the winter. I do have to say though, that on many, many originals, once built, the breechplug was never removed. My grandfather was born in 1867 and he used a half stock plains style rifle in 45 cal. - he never removed the breechplug and he cleaned it with hot water. As stated - "it sworked then and it works now". If it ain't broke, why fix it? I shoot rifle and smoothbore - before shooting, I run several patches down the barrel to take out any oil/WD-40. I always put in a powder charge and shoot it off in the air or down range without a projectile. I then run a spit patch down the barrel - then load. On my rifles (round ball), I run a spit patch down the barrel between shots. This is what works best for me and for the rifles I shoot. It keeps the fouling down and makes loading easier - in the long run - helps maintain my accuracy. Everyone has their own metods though - it really boils down to what works best for you and the weapon you're shooting. :)
 
Thanks all for the reply's. I was hoping that there had been a magic cleaning method invented in across the years but I guess I'll stick to my hot water and ivory flakes cause as BedBugBilly's Grandpa said: "if it ain't broke, why fix it".

As an aside, I've had limited success with pulling dry balls with a screw, more often than not the screw strips. When that happens my preferred method is to remove the nipple, poke powder into the chamber (doesn't take much) replace the nipple, place a cap and pop the ball out.
 
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