Clean, yes, but what to LUBRICATE?

what part is the "disconnector" or where is it located.
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Making sure the gun is unloaded insert a empty magazine and rack the slide so it locks in the open position. On the frame through the opening where your empty case come out you will see a small silver tip sticking up out of the frame. That is the disconnecter.
 
i clean mine with simplegreen and lube with either clp or mobil m1 synthetic motor oil.but usually clp.i spray it down run a patch through the bore,assemble and then just wipe it down.
 
napg19 said:
Couple years ago I called and asked a glock tech what he used to clean his glock. He said CLR and brush real good and rinse in water. I did not try this on my g19, has anyone out there tried it?
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Yep, that's how I do mine. Detail strip the slide, thoroughly degrease all the parts (barrel, internals, spring & slide) with a toothbrush/Q-Tips and dishwashing liquid under running water (kitchen sink). The bore gets scrubbed with the OEM vinyl brush (with water & dishwashing liquid), followed with foaming bore cleaner, and finished with Birchwood's Barricade.

On the frame, Q-Tips moist with isopropyl alcohol work good.

For lube, use whatever you want, but I'm really hooked on Shooter's Choice All Weather High-Tech grease which with a toothbrush, is used to apply a thin film on all metal parts.
 
And, can I use the grease on the areas(rails) that I used the Breakfree to clean? Some of these products want you to go down to bare metal before you use the grease product (Militec-1 and Mil-Comm)
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Nothing in militec-1's application guide (for the oil or grease) mentions anything about bare metal. they simply emphasze the surfaces need to be clean - i.e. no built up fouling, carbon residue and so forth. They explicitly claim it is safe to use on all blued finishes, plastics, composites and wood finishes.

I've been using militec-1 oil as my sole gun lubricant (revolver and auto-loaders) for several years now and have no plans to switch to anything else. I have a SIG P226 that has had nothing but militec-1 (it shipped with a small sample tube in the case) with 5000-5500 rounds through it now and there is only very marginal frame rail and slide wear (mostly slicking? or polishing of the anodizing and nitron finish, but the finish is still in place and no bare metal is showing).

My one general rule with firearm lubrication is that a little goes a long way. Especially for revolver innards, which generally stay quite clean anyway and using more than a very small amount of oil just traps grit and grime. Even with autoloaders, IMO, many people grossly overlube their pistols.
 
"What's wrong with oil?"

Ultimately, there's nothing wrong with oil used to lubricate the slide rails on a semi-auto, except that I don't much care for it for a couple of reasons:

1. I wear glasses, and inevitably some of the oil is going to be chucked back onto the lenses of my glasses. I hate having anything on my glasses.

2. It tends to "go away" a lot faster than a light-bodied grease.

If I'm in the middle of a match, though, and the grease starts to crud up or wear thin, I'll often lube with oil as a temporary measure.


I generally prefer grease for enclosed places, especially the interior workings of revolvers. Grease stays where you put it, oil generally does not. It flows over time, and invariably it flows away from where you want it.
 
gwnorth,

Thanks for the correction on Militec-1.

I will be ordering some.

As I understand it, if I clean my entire pistol with Breakfree CLP, and the barrel
with Hoppes #9, after the pistol is wiped dry of all the excess CLP, then I can use the Militec-1 to lubricate the slide and the rails?

I also have a SA Colt. Where would I use the Militec-1 on this piece?

Thanks

Vinnie
 
I'm with Mike on this one.

A very light coat of lithium grease applied to slides is my preference. Especially in hot weather.
 
Eezox, is my current favorite. I especially like that it is a dry lube that doesn't collect lint or dust. Also seems like cleaning is easier after using it a couple of times. Also it does awesome job on rust prevention.
 
My local gunsmith says, every 6 months one should use WD40 to remove all old lubrication, and then re-lubricate. His logic is that after 6 months, the greese/lubrication dries up, and begins to have adverse effects, acting as a sticky adheasive... He maintains that WD40 breaks up all the old greese and lube, allowing a new fresh coat of greese and lubrication to be applied optimally.
Anyone care to back up or dispute this? I take no sides, i only take into account the balance of wisdom, common sense, and logic!
Thanks!
 
I also have a SA Colt. Where would I use the Militec-1 on this piece?
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Have a look at the cylinder&slide writeup on lubrication:

http://www.cylinder-slide.com/cleaning.shtml

Basically, a small drop at the hammer pivot, the cylinder locking bolt, and the trigger will work their way into the insides of most revovlers more than sufficiently. Revolvers need very little lubrication - the innards really do tend to stay quite clean under normal use (assuming the gun does not get dunked in a lake, carried openly in driving rain, or something extreme like that).

BT, I'd say your gunsmith is a bit off the mark. Since most people clean their weapons with some solvent anyway (I prefer good ol' Hoppe's), their should not be any buildup of old lube as the solvent and cleaning will make sure that does not happen. Personally, I have never and would never use WD40 on my firearms - it just seems the wrong tool for the job, to my mind.
 
Again, why spray anything on a handgun from an aerosol can or similar? The more stuff for powder and such to stick to, the more potential problems. Unless you've given it a salt water bath there's no reason to do some of what is suggested on this thread.
 
Here's your 30th answer. I use to use break free clp but have switched to Militec. I like it a lot but have only been using it for about a year. I don't see me switching back though. I like the whole dry lubrication thing.
 
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