Clean Front of Cylinder

Thank you all for the suggestions and interest. Those rings have always bothered me on my revolvers. The GP100 is new to me and to the world and I want it to be clean. Mr. Borland, Your right about beautiful not being important, thats just me. I'm going to try one of those cloths and not worry about it too much. Thanks
 
Owning clean guns that won't corrode is the point my friend.
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It's a complete waste of time. Removing those rings is not part of normal cleaning and only serves to satisfy 'some' people's needs that border on OCD.
 
What's the point?
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Excessive build up can tie up the cylinder.
My wheel guns do get pretty gunky from the stuff I put through them.
Unique powder isn't exactly clean burning. Neither is the stuff left over from the lube on the lead bullets.

So - yes - I make it a point to scrub the faces of the cylinder with a bronze brush @ the very least and hit it with a lead away if it's SS or nickel.

Removing those rings is not part of normal cleaning and only serves to satisfy 'some' people's needs that border on OCD.
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Shrug - so I'm borderline. Big deal. It's not like it's some week long ordeal. It only takes 30 seconds at the most.
If you don't want to take the time, fine.
I'd rather take a few extra moments and mske sure my next trip to the range is one with a working gun instead of one with a gun that ties up after the first couple shots.
I've had that type of experience and it's not fun at all.
 
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On a stainless gun, it's not going to rust on the cylinder face. I just clean it, oil it and I never give a second thought to a little discoloration. On a scandium frame, you CAN do damage from overly aggressive cleaning. Here is what the face of my 340PD looks like from flame cutting, once the protective finish was eaten away by solvent (I used plastic cleaning brushes and a tooth brush to clean the cylinder, so I'm assuming it was from solvent and not abrasion) This process seems to have been self limiting, as it has not gotten worse for the past few years and a few thousand rounds:

cylinderfaceerosion_zps06e0aa7e.jpg


With a stainless steel gun, I think the cylinder face can take more abusive cleaning than with a Titanium cylinders' protective coating.
 
Excessive build up can tie up the cylinder.
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It's carbon scoring, it doesn't "build up". In nearly 40yrs of shooting revolvers, I've never cleaned the scorch marks off a cylinder face and it has never been an issue. Do you do this on blued guns? No. Why not? Because you can't see them. Is it a problem? Nope. You can see it on a stainless gun, therefore you "think" it's a problem but it really isn't. As usual, the reasons given are imagined.
 
Do you do this on blued guns?
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Of course I do. I scrub the face with a bronze brush exactly like I mentioned above.

As usual, the reasons given are imagined.
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Hardly.
Again, like I mentioned above, I shoot dirty loads. Nothing imagined about the crud they cause.
 
Of course I do. I scrub the face with a bronze brush exactly like I mentioned above.
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We're talking about the carbon scoring that does not come off with solvents through normal cleaning and you're talking about the powder residue that does. Two distinctly different things.
 
KyJim...it was just good old Hoppes #9. My second favorite smell in the world. The rounds used, just a few hundred, were the Remington 125 grain SJHP.

I had no idea there was ammonia in this solvent, as it's all I had ever used as a solvent in the past, and then followed up the cleanup with gun oil. Smith and wesson specifically warns against use of ammonia as it dissolves the protective coating on the cylinder. This, coupled with a load known for causing flame cutting of topstraps was not the best combo.

As you can see from the wear on this gun, it gets carried a lot... and has seen a few thousand rounds through it. If the erosion gets worse, I'll replace the cylinder, possibly with a moon clipped stainless one.

340pd_zps89613abb.jpg
 
"Scandium " guns are actually an aluminum alloy with about 1 % scandium !!
It always pays to read the instructions.
 
I have found that a "Pink Pet" pencil eraser does a great job. Don't use an ink eraser or a gum rubber one. Be sure to brush off all residue from the eraser.
 
Flitz metal polish and a microfiber cloth.

Gentle, and that carbon comes right off.

I did it to my GP100 all the time.

Why? Because I just wanted her to look pretty all the time, and it took all of two minutes to polish the whole cylinder.
 
KyJim...it was just good old Hoppes #9. . . .

I had no idea there was ammonia in this solvent,
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A lot of us have used Hoppes #9 over the years. I've gotten away from it, though, and normally use BreakFree CLP for everyday cleaning. Works fine and doesn't have ammonia. It's also less work since it has the lubricant and rust preventive in it. I do use a different lubricant for the rails on my semi-autos as the CLP tends to migrate or evaporate somewhat over time.
 
I see a space/time where/when ammo is scarce. So dear and rare it is that
not many ever actually fire a shot. They do, however, want their guns to LOOK like they have been fired, and fired often as that is a sign of wealth and competence with arms.
Brimstone Specialty Finishes give your nine shooter that just got back from the OK corral look, only the finest pure carbon black is used in a binder that stays where it's put, we dare you to take it off.
 
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