Clean Front of Cylinder

F

fshfindr

New member
Just one time I cleaned the front of my stainless GP100 cylinder. I used a buffing wheel on my dremel. It came beautiful. I just don't know if it is something that I should do regularly. Any body else?
 
Last edited:
A buffing wheel might be too aggressive for routine use, especially since the small amount of crud usually has no effect on the function of the gun. I use a brass or copper brush (soft steel brush for a lot of buildup) when I do clean the cylinder front, but usually just wipe it with a patch and bore cleaner.

(Note on nickel plated revolvers: Do not clean the cylinder with Hoppes; it may cause the nickel to peel. Do not use abrasive or a metal brush; only non-ammonia bore cleaner.)

Jim
 
Get a Lead away cloth from Clean-bore. Its a yellow inpregnated cloth that will take all that crud off the cyl face.

It will take bluing off as well so be careful.

Works great!!!
 
A GP100 doesn't have to be "beautiful". You can just wipe the heavy stuff off with a little solvent, and leave the rest.
 
I find that a Lead Away cloth will remove about 90% of the carbon fouling on the face of your cylinder. Remember this is for stainless steel firearms only.

When cleaning both blued and stainless revolvers I run a strip of Lead cleaning patch through the bore of my revolver. It's just amazing how much gunk one of these will remove:eek:, from what I thought was a clean barrel.
 
You and the revolver are better off if you stop cleaning after removing the actual fouling (carbon buildup and/or leading) and don't worry about trying to remove the black staining/carbon scoring/powder burn stain rings on the front of the cylinder.
 
You can polish a piece of clean steel with a Lead Away cloth and the cloth will turn black. The discoloration is the steel that the abrasive cloth removed. Not advisable on bores very often.
 
I simply clean with a nylon brush and some powder solvent. Functioally, you're only trying to make sure there's not enough build-up that it makes the cylinder drag. If you're trying to sell the gun or you're doing a photo spread with it, you may want to clean more aggressively.
 
Not to try to steal this post but today I had trouble closing the GP_100 cylinder loaded. It took a while to take it to closed and shoot, its the second time out that I used it today and didn't cleaned it after last time out but I have shot it and not cleaned it all the time.
I was wondering if the gun finally cleaned inside the internals as it have never cleaned inside.
Gun have never done this before.
 
Powder burn residue on the cylinder front is not so important to me.
I clean a revolver with ordinary care. If it's a little blackish on the cylinder front, I regard that as normal honest signs of being used. No real need for me to remove traces of being fired.
 
Howdy

I gave up trying to remove the carbon rings from the front face of revolver cylinders a long time ago. It does not hurt anything, and no matter what you do it always returns. Once you have enough revolvers you too will stop trying to remove carbon rings.

The other solution is to shoot Black Powder. No carbon rings with Black Powder.
 
Not to try to steal this post but today I had trouble closing the GP_100 cylinder loaded.
Click to expand...
If the cylinder closes easily when unloaded but is hard to close loaded, then either the ammunition is improperly dimensioned, or, more likely, the chambers are fouled and the cartridges are not fully chambered.

Another fairly common issue is that .38special rounds fired in a .357Mag cylinder can create fouling rings in the cylinder that can make it difficult to fully chamber .357Mag rounds.
 
Code: 
Another fairly common issue is that .38special rounds fired in a .357Mag cylinder can create fouling rings in the cylinder that can make it difficult to fully chamber .357Mag rounds.

Thanks, I appreciate the help on that.
 
Another fairly common issue is that .38special rounds fired in a .357Mag cylinder can create fouling rings in the cylinder that can make it difficult to fully chamber .357Mag rounds.
Click to expand...
Quick fix for that is to take a spent .357mag case and push it into each chamber. That scrapes the walls clean enough to get rounds to chamber.

& + whatever for Lead Away.
Great for SS and nickel guns. Death on blued though.
 
I gave up trying to remove the carbon rings from the front face of revolver cylinders a long time ago. It does not hurt anything, and no matter what you do it always returns. Once you have enough revolvers you too will stop trying to remove carbon rings.
Click to expand...
I never did try. What doesn't come off wiping with hoppes #9 stays. Never saw the 'point' in removing the rings on any of my revolvers SS or blued.
 
What's the point?

What's the point?
Click to expand...

Owning clean guns that won't corrode is the point my friend.

I don't wash my car because of pride,,,
I wash my car so it doesn't fall to corrosion,,,
All of that gunk on any metal can hide corrosive stuff.

I don't go all ninja on every speck of gunk on my guns,,,
But I do clean them enough to make sure whatever is left there,,,
Isn't going to eat a hole in the metal of corrode the finish from the gun.

I was raised under opposing influences:

Every time my grandfather fired one of his rifles (or used a tool) it got cleaned,,,
He would break it down and clean it back to looking new,,,
He would lastly wipe a coat of surface oil on it,,,
Then it went back into the cabinet.

Every time my Dad fired a gun or used a tool,,,
They just got tossed back on the shelf,,,
Or stood behind the door again.

My grandfather had an entire cabinet of cleaning/maintenance supplies,,,
My Dad had a can of 3-in-1 oil and no cleaning rod.

Guess who had guns and tools that lasted seemingly forever,,,
And guess whose guns and tools were barely operable.

Just saying is all.

Aarond

.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top