Mike Baugh
New member
I was looking at the Centurion STG 58 rifles that are for sale by SOG , does anyone have any info on these ? Thanks , Mike...
Centurion STG 58
- Thread starter Mike Baugh
- Start date
Destructo6
New member
Your main concern with this is the maker of the receiver. If it's anything other than Imbel (1st choice) or DSA, hold off for something else. Hesse and Enterprise have a poor reputation to the point that some FAL smiths refuse to work with them (gunplumber) and others charge extra for the handfitting that they are sure to do. If it has any problems out of the box, and some do, a decent smith should be able to retime the barrel or whatever, but if it's a receiver related problem, you're in bad shape.
Check out the FALFiles at:
http://www.fnfal.com/falfiles/wwwboard/
The other route you can take is to buy all the parts, locate a good FAL smith, and have one built to order. One of the FFLs that post on the FALFiles boards was advertising Imbel receivers for $240 and South African R1 parts kits for $120. Add the US parts kit for another $150, build and refinish for another $200, and you're about where the Centurians are priced, but with the job done right by someone who will back up their work. You can also go the budget route and barrel the receiver yourself and not refinish.
Check out the FALFiles at:
http://www.fnfal.com/falfiles/wwwboard/
The other route you can take is to buy all the parts, locate a good FAL smith, and have one built to order. One of the FFLs that post on the FALFiles boards was advertising Imbel receivers for $240 and South African R1 parts kits for $120. Add the US parts kit for another $150, build and refinish for another $200, and you're about where the Centurians are priced, but with the job done right by someone who will back up their work. You can also go the budget route and barrel the receiver yourself and not refinish.
These appear to be STG-58 parts kits built onto Imbel upper receivers. It has the requisite number of US parts to allow it to legally have a pistol grip. That I noticed, the US parts are 1) a shiny aluminum cocking handle, 2) a DSA pistol grip, 3) the magazine follower and 4) the magazine floor plate. I'm guessing that the trigger and/or hammer are also US made. As with most of these, the barrels are high quality (made by Steyr) and have chrome lined bores and chambers so they are generally very shiny and in excellent shape where it counts. Unfortunately, they chose to not include the folding bipod, however you can buy original STG-58 bipods in Shotgun News for $20 so that's not so fatal.
A friend of mine bought one and we had to search through four of them to find one that didn't have noticeable cosmetic problems. These are all built on mostly used parts and the sheet metal handguards usually have a few dents. The "finish" Century puts on them appears to be paint which is easily scratched off. The quality of the paint job varies from crappy to adequate.
When we got it home, I tore it down, sandblasted the old finish off and refinished it with satin black spray-and-bake Norell's Moly Resin. It looks super now.
In the process of disassembling and degreasing it prior to refinishing, I found a lot of crap (hardened cosmoline, etc) in the nooks and crannies, along with spots of rust here and there. Century spent as little time as possible putting these together, so it would be worth your while to do a complete tear down and clean up prior to trying to use one in ernest. That, or send it out to a professional to have it cleaned and refinished (should cost anywhere between $150 and $200 done right. Check http://www.arizonaresponsesystems.com for one well known FAL gunsmith).
For the $650 my friend paid, I think he got a decent deal. Its hard to find one of these in any condition for less. Add $150 to the price you pay to have it refinished and you'll have a nice example of one of the great battle rifles of the 20th century.
A friend of mine bought one and we had to search through four of them to find one that didn't have noticeable cosmetic problems. These are all built on mostly used parts and the sheet metal handguards usually have a few dents. The "finish" Century puts on them appears to be paint which is easily scratched off. The quality of the paint job varies from crappy to adequate.
When we got it home, I tore it down, sandblasted the old finish off and refinished it with satin black spray-and-bake Norell's Moly Resin. It looks super now.
In the process of disassembling and degreasing it prior to refinishing, I found a lot of crap (hardened cosmoline, etc) in the nooks and crannies, along with spots of rust here and there. Century spent as little time as possible putting these together, so it would be worth your while to do a complete tear down and clean up prior to trying to use one in ernest. That, or send it out to a professional to have it cleaned and refinished (should cost anywhere between $150 and $200 done right. Check http://www.arizonaresponsesystems.com for one well known FAL gunsmith).
For the $650 my friend paid, I think he got a decent deal. Its hard to find one of these in any condition for less. Add $150 to the price you pay to have it refinished and you'll have a nice example of one of the great battle rifles of the 20th century.
Mike Baugh
New member
Thanks guys . I want to buy one of these and no 0 about them . I was going to buy a kit and an Imbel receiver and have it put together but I did not know who to send it to , I have been looking around Fal-Files all day trying to learn a little . Thanks , Mike...
I recently bought a Century STG-58 FAL rifle from AIM Surplus for about $590 (dealer). I'm very pleased with it. It is built on an Imbel receiver, using an Austrian Steyr surplus rifle kit. Mine also had some "gunk" in the crevices that I had to clean out, but the parts appear to be in good shape, the finish is decent, and it shoots fine (reliably at least-I haven't seriously tested it for accuracy). I think I got a good deal.
Be aware that I may have been lucky to get a good one. Also, Century makes some of these on Hesse receivers (which I didn't want). Be sure to confirm that you are getting an Imbel receiver if that's what you want.
I think building a kit would be fun as well. If I didn't live in California, I'd probably buy one of the nice kits I've seen, get another Imbel or DSA receiver, buy some U.S. parts (for legality), and try to build one myself. I'd like a FAL with a 16" or 18" barrel. As it stands, I may have my Century rifle cut down. But I'm happy with it and think it was a good deal. I think it's roughly the same cost as buying the parts to build your own, and it is nice to start with a fully assembled working rifle with a guarantee instead of a bunch of parts.
Be aware that I may have been lucky to get a good one. Also, Century makes some of these on Hesse receivers (which I didn't want). Be sure to confirm that you are getting an Imbel receiver if that's what you want.
I think building a kit would be fun as well. If I didn't live in California, I'd probably buy one of the nice kits I've seen, get another Imbel or DSA receiver, buy some U.S. parts (for legality), and try to build one myself. I'd like a FAL with a 16" or 18" barrel. As it stands, I may have my Century rifle cut down. But I'm happy with it and think it was a good deal. I think it's roughly the same cost as buying the parts to build your own, and it is nice to start with a fully assembled working rifle with a guarantee instead of a bunch of parts.
Hello everybody:
I am probably one of the very few lucky ones that bought a Century STG FAL built on Hesse receiver that functions perfectly. I've heard so many bad things about the Hesse receiver (ranging from rough machine marks created by a gorrila to out of specs lowers). That is not, however, the case with mine. The receiver of my Century STG is well built and well finished (upper receiver does have a somewhat rough finish compared to the lower). There are no rough spots or machine marks on the receivers (both upper and lower).
The accuracy was excellent, after a zeroing session, shot the rifle today from 100 yards. The first three shots created one large jagged hole (which I admit that I was just getting lucky) and the next ten shots grouped at about 3.5". This was done with a very dirty looking 1974 Chillean ammos. Maybe that is not impressive to you experts out there, but to a guy who can barely shoot 3" groups from his AR, that is an above satisfactory performance, indeed.
Biggest peeve I have about the Hesse receiver is that the groove / depression on the lower that retain the safety lever in "fire" position is not deep enough. That means that if you flick the safety lever down from the "safe" to "fire" position hard enough, it (safety lever) would continue to rotate to the next position (used to be an AUTO in the original, I guess)and the gun would fail to fire. That is why my FAL is only a backup rifle.
Johannes
I am probably one of the very few lucky ones that bought a Century STG FAL built on Hesse receiver that functions perfectly. I've heard so many bad things about the Hesse receiver (ranging from rough machine marks created by a gorrila to out of specs lowers). That is not, however, the case with mine. The receiver of my Century STG is well built and well finished (upper receiver does have a somewhat rough finish compared to the lower). There are no rough spots or machine marks on the receivers (both upper and lower).
The accuracy was excellent, after a zeroing session, shot the rifle today from 100 yards. The first three shots created one large jagged hole (which I admit that I was just getting lucky) and the next ten shots grouped at about 3.5". This was done with a very dirty looking 1974 Chillean ammos. Maybe that is not impressive to you experts out there, but to a guy who can barely shoot 3" groups from his AR, that is an above satisfactory performance, indeed.
Biggest peeve I have about the Hesse receiver is that the groove / depression on the lower that retain the safety lever in "fire" position is not deep enough. That means that if you flick the safety lever down from the "safe" to "fire" position hard enough, it (safety lever) would continue to rotate to the next position (used to be an AUTO in the original, I guess)and the gun would fail to fire. That is why my FAL is only a backup rifle.
Johannes
Johan762,
I'm glad to hear that your Hesse-receivered rifle turned out well. I have NO personal experience with them, and was basing my preference for the Imbel on what I've read on the web. I have read a few other comments from people who are happy with the Hesse receivers, so maybe they've improved, or maybe they never were as bad as I'd heard (that's the thing about the web-one or two people can spread their opinions around pretty widely). Anyone looking into FALs should probably check the FAL Files forum - although it a lot of Century and Hesse haters (some of whom are custom builders who obviously aren't too pleased about Century selling similar rifles for 1/2 what they charge). I'm sure some of the custom rifles are nicer - but for my money, I have no regrets about my Century rifle.
As far as the safety/selector lever rotating past the "fire" postion, my Century Imbel rifle does exactly the same thing, so its not unique to the Hesse receiver. I think its very common. One way of getting around it, and of getting another U.S. part in the gun (may make it legal to use imported magazines-although I'm not sure if this is necessary or enough), is to add a DSA selector. It has a nub that stops it at the "Fire" position. I think they are $25. I'll probably get one.
I'm glad to hear that your Hesse-receivered rifle turned out well. I have NO personal experience with them, and was basing my preference for the Imbel on what I've read on the web. I have read a few other comments from people who are happy with the Hesse receivers, so maybe they've improved, or maybe they never were as bad as I'd heard (that's the thing about the web-one or two people can spread their opinions around pretty widely). Anyone looking into FALs should probably check the FAL Files forum - although it a lot of Century and Hesse haters (some of whom are custom builders who obviously aren't too pleased about Century selling similar rifles for 1/2 what they charge). I'm sure some of the custom rifles are nicer - but for my money, I have no regrets about my Century rifle.
As far as the safety/selector lever rotating past the "fire" postion, my Century Imbel rifle does exactly the same thing, so its not unique to the Hesse receiver. I think its very common. One way of getting around it, and of getting another U.S. part in the gun (may make it legal to use imported magazines-although I'm not sure if this is necessary or enough), is to add a DSA selector. It has a nub that stops it at the "Fire" position. I think they are $25. I'll probably get one.
Destructo6
New member
DougB: unfortunately, the selector switch isn't one of the parts that counts in the ATF's "10 imported parts rule."
My DSA semi-auto only selector switch required some minor filing of the nubbin to install. After that, the plunger detent that keeps the selector in position didn't protrude enough to keep from wiggling. I took the plunger out (roll pin secured) and turned it down so that I now have a very positive detent with no wiggle. Apparently DSA manufactures the selector switch for their lightweight lower gripframe/receiver which has slightly thicker walls.
Johan762: your gripframe/lower receiver was probably made by FN or Steyr, not Hesse. Most "new" FALs out there are just STG-58 parts kits with new receivers, mine included.
My DSA semi-auto only selector switch required some minor filing of the nubbin to install. After that, the plunger detent that keeps the selector in position didn't protrude enough to keep from wiggling. I took the plunger out (roll pin secured) and turned it down so that I now have a very positive detent with no wiggle. Apparently DSA manufactures the selector switch for their lightweight lower gripframe/receiver which has slightly thicker walls.
Johan762: your gripframe/lower receiver was probably made by FN or Steyr, not Hesse. Most "new" FALs out there are just STG-58 parts kits with new receivers, mine included.
Just to pi$$ everyone off:
I recently got an original Aussie L1A1 for $300 (or close to it, can't remember exact exchange rate), externally a bit worn and battle-scarred but a good shooter. A brand-new L1A1 was available a while back for about $500 but I missed getting it...am happy with mine though. American prices are downright scary sometimes
Timo
I recently got an original Aussie L1A1 for $300 (or close to it, can't remember exact exchange rate), externally a bit worn and battle-scarred but a good shooter. A brand-new L1A1 was available a while back for about $500 but I missed getting it...am happy with mine though. American prices are downright scary sometimes
Timo
I have the same rifle Johan. Has not failed me yet, and a very sweet shooter. I have seen some rough Hesse receivers to be sure. You and I must have got the only two good ones. The regulars over at falfiles will generally poo poo the centurian, but then again like what was said earlier, alot of the custom makers are upset that centurian undercuts their pricing with a comparable rifle.
Selector does not have a positive snick to it on mine either. Will look into the DSArms solution offered.
BTW, I shoot the dirt cheap Radway Green surplus .308 available from Ammoman. Great value.
Get spare small parts now while they are easy to find and cheap. Springs, firing pin, gas piston, etc.
Tom
Selector does not have a positive snick to it on mine either. Will look into the DSArms solution offered.
BTW, I shoot the dirt cheap Radway Green surplus .308 available from Ammoman. Great value.
Get spare small parts now while they are easy to find and cheap. Springs, firing pin, gas piston, etc.
Tom
About the sour grapes from pissed off custom FAL gunsmiths: In reality, the custom 'smith is charging you for his time. You have to buy and supply the parts, he refinishes them, assembles them, tests for safe function and ships it back to you, all for his basic fee.
Let's take a look at what Century charges you for the same work using my friend's $700 (including tax) Centurian STG-58 as an example: prices on both parts kits and receivers have dropped a lot over the last year so let's guess that Century paid $75 for the Stg parts kit (in quantity), somewhere around $200 for an Imbel receiver (in quantity) and, say, $100 for a US parts kit (in quantity). Figure that the dealer has $100 in markup in the rifle priced at $650. That means that Century made somewhere in the neighborhood of $150 for throwing together and shipping each rifle to a dealer.
Compare that $150 slam-bam-thank-you-maam Century job to the $200+ you might pay a custom 'smith for a stunningly finshed rifle, one that you *know* the headspace is good on and that all the parts work smoothly and safely because all the gunk and rust have been cleaned out by a professional, and I think you have to admit that having it done right is worth the extra $50 or so.
Look, I've done a complete tear down and refinish of an Stg-58 and even though I've done several of these before, it still took the better part of a day to do it. Believe me, its worth the money to pay someone else to do it unless you have the time and the equipment (which I happened to have at the time) to do it right. The custom 'smith is *not* gouging you. If anything Century ought to be ashamed for charging you in the neighborhood of $150 for the shoddy work they do.
[This message has been edited by pbash (edited January 24, 2000).]
Let's take a look at what Century charges you for the same work using my friend's $700 (including tax) Centurian STG-58 as an example: prices on both parts kits and receivers have dropped a lot over the last year so let's guess that Century paid $75 for the Stg parts kit (in quantity), somewhere around $200 for an Imbel receiver (in quantity) and, say, $100 for a US parts kit (in quantity). Figure that the dealer has $100 in markup in the rifle priced at $650. That means that Century made somewhere in the neighborhood of $150 for throwing together and shipping each rifle to a dealer.
Compare that $150 slam-bam-thank-you-maam Century job to the $200+ you might pay a custom 'smith for a stunningly finshed rifle, one that you *know* the headspace is good on and that all the parts work smoothly and safely because all the gunk and rust have been cleaned out by a professional, and I think you have to admit that having it done right is worth the extra $50 or so.
Look, I've done a complete tear down and refinish of an Stg-58 and even though I've done several of these before, it still took the better part of a day to do it. Believe me, its worth the money to pay someone else to do it unless you have the time and the equipment (which I happened to have at the time) to do it right. The custom 'smith is *not* gouging you. If anything Century ought to be ashamed for charging you in the neighborhood of $150 for the shoddy work they do.
[This message has been edited by pbash (edited January 24, 2000).]
Destructo6
New member
Zeebrahed: have you noticed a power difference in the Radway Green 7.62 that is headstamped "80" vs "70"? I was shooting a mixed mag of this stuff and noticed that one would come whizing out of the ejection port as you would expect, while the other sort of fell out like an AR.
Hello everybody:
This is a cool thread! Speaking of ammunition "power", I noticed that at the lowest setting on the gas adjustment (#1), the casing still got ejected to about six feet from my bench. A few weeks ago, I had the setting at #3 and I got sore looks from people at the range who got my empties in their gun cases about twenty feet away! OOOPS, sorry gentlemen, my most sincere apology.
DougB: thank you for your advice about the DSA safety lever. The bad thing is that I have no mechanical aptitude none whatsoever. It seems that anything I tinker with will turn into a piece of junk.
Destructo6: your comment really interest me. All I see on my rifle is this: "Receiver by Hesse Arms" written on the upper receiver. So, which receiver (upper or lower) that Hesse made. Although I stated above that both the upper and lower receiver of my FAL are very well built, there are differences in the workmanship between the two. The upper seems to be "rougher" than the lower and the finish is not as good. The lower has this really smooth and uniform black delicate satin finish while the upper has, well, kind of "cheaper" looking finish compared to the lower's. I am pretty sure that Hesse built both the upper and lower receiver. The reason I said that is because Hesse's lower is the only one that I've ever seen with the "take down" lever located at the back of the receiver instead of at the bottom, next to the safety lever.
As nice as my Hesse receivers are, I still agree that Imbel is still a tad nicer (though in my particular case, not by much).
Thank you for the informative and interesting discussions, people. And thank you for allowing me to "brag" :=) a little about my FAL.
Johannes
This is a cool thread! Speaking of ammunition "power", I noticed that at the lowest setting on the gas adjustment (#1), the casing still got ejected to about six feet from my bench. A few weeks ago, I had the setting at #3 and I got sore looks from people at the range who got my empties in their gun cases about twenty feet away! OOOPS, sorry gentlemen, my most sincere apology.
DougB: thank you for your advice about the DSA safety lever. The bad thing is that I have no mechanical aptitude none whatsoever. It seems that anything I tinker with will turn into a piece of junk.
Destructo6: your comment really interest me. All I see on my rifle is this: "Receiver by Hesse Arms" written on the upper receiver. So, which receiver (upper or lower) that Hesse made. Although I stated above that both the upper and lower receiver of my FAL are very well built, there are differences in the workmanship between the two. The upper seems to be "rougher" than the lower and the finish is not as good. The lower has this really smooth and uniform black delicate satin finish while the upper has, well, kind of "cheaper" looking finish compared to the lower's. I am pretty sure that Hesse built both the upper and lower receiver. The reason I said that is because Hesse's lower is the only one that I've ever seen with the "take down" lever located at the back of the receiver instead of at the bottom, next to the safety lever.
As nice as my Hesse receivers are, I still agree that Imbel is still a tad nicer (though in my particular case, not by much).
Thank you for the informative and interesting discussions, people. And thank you for allowing me to "brag" :=) a little about my FAL.
Johannes
Johan762, the takedown lever's orientation (vertical or horizontal) is dependent on the type of lever you have, not whose lower receiver you have. The hole the lever is inserted into is in the same place on all FALs I've seen. The upper is likely the only part made by Hesse given your description of the cheesy finish 
. The lowers are surplus Stg-58 and easily available with any part kit so there is no need to make a US version (yet).
Blake Stevens has a book, "The FAL Rifle", with tons of pictures and descriptions of all the various models of FAL from around the world. Its an expensive book, at $130 or so, but you can browse through one at most of the gun shows around here.
. The lowers are surplus Stg-58 and easily available with any part kit so there is no need to make a US version (yet). Blake Stevens has a book, "The FAL Rifle", with tons of pictures and descriptions of all the various models of FAL from around the world. Its an expensive book, at $130 or so, but you can browse through one at most of the gun shows around here.
Destructo6
New member
Like pbash said, the lower is a surplus Austrian part and was not made by Hesse. Most of your FAL is Austrian surplus, except the upper receiver and 7 or so other parts.
The FAL is a super simple design. To remove the selector switch, just detach the lower receiver/gripframe from the upper, pop the hammer spring off from the rear, pull the trigger to allow the hammer to come forward, rotate the selector switch counter clockwise to the 12 o'clock position and pull out from the left side. If you look into the lower at that point, you'll notice that the selector held a small metal plate against the right interior wall of the lower. If you rotate that plate upward, you can remove it by pulling up and back (now you can see that the front looks like a hook, while the rearward portion has a hole in it). Once that plate is out, you can push the hammer and trigger/sear pivot pins out to the left and all the fire control parts will come out.
The FAL is a super simple design. To remove the selector switch, just detach the lower receiver/gripframe from the upper, pop the hammer spring off from the rear, pull the trigger to allow the hammer to come forward, rotate the selector switch counter clockwise to the 12 o'clock position and pull out from the left side. If you look into the lower at that point, you'll notice that the selector held a small metal plate against the right interior wall of the lower. If you rotate that plate upward, you can remove it by pulling up and back (now you can see that the front looks like a hook, while the rearward portion has a hole in it). Once that plate is out, you can push the hammer and trigger/sear pivot pins out to the left and all the fire control parts will come out.
Destructo,
My current cache of RG .308 is headstamped 85. My rifle consistently launches brass on par with a ruger mini 14. However, this was not the case at first. Brand new, the brass would sorta fall out of the ejection port. This happened until about 50 rounds after i dialed in the proper gas setting. Maybe that had something to do with it?
BTW, my brass is really chewed up bad around the case neck. Usually crushed as well. But I am confident in the robust way my FAL ejects a spent casing. Violent and effective like an AK.
-Tom
My current cache of RG .308 is headstamped 85. My rifle consistently launches brass on par with a ruger mini 14. However, this was not the case at first. Brand new, the brass would sorta fall out of the ejection port. This happened until about 50 rounds after i dialed in the proper gas setting. Maybe that had something to do with it?
BTW, my brass is really chewed up bad around the case neck. Usually crushed as well. But I am confident in the robust way my FAL ejects a spent casing. Violent and effective like an AK.
-Tom
Destructo6
New member
You should download the FAL owner's manual (actally infantryman's manual) from the FALFiles: http://gallery.uunet.be/pevame/pevame/falmanual.htm
It goes through the proceedures for properly setting your gas regulator for any particular ammunition. The short version is to put the gas regulator on high (1 on STG-58), put one round in a magazine and fire. If the bolt is held back by the hold open device (as it should), turn the regulator down one click and repeat. Do this until the bolt fails to lock open, then turn the regulator back up one click and fire several single shots to confirm. This will keep you and the rifle from having to take any more than the required beating. Keep in mind that different ammo may have a different sweet spot.
It goes through the proceedures for properly setting your gas regulator for any particular ammunition. The short version is to put the gas regulator on high (1 on STG-58), put one round in a magazine and fire. If the bolt is held back by the hold open device (as it should), turn the regulator down one click and repeat. Do this until the bolt fails to lock open, then turn the regulator back up one click and fire several single shots to confirm. This will keep you and the rifle from having to take any more than the required beating. Keep in mind that different ammo may have a different sweet spot.
Destructo66:
Now I am really really confused about the gas regulator setting. When I was in the range, the empty casing was ejected from the rifle with supersonic speed (exaguration) from the rifle when the gas setting was at (#3). Like I said, my empties landed in other people's rifle cases 20 feet away from where I was at. When I turned the setting to (#1), the empties were ejected only to about 6 - 8 feet away from my bench. What's going on here? Do you think my observation was flawed? Well, maybe I just need to go back to the range and check it out again.
Oh yeah, thank you for the instruction about how to strip the safety lever from the lower receiver.
pbash: thank's for straightening my confusions about who made the upper / lower receivers. I mistakenly believed that HESSE made both the lower and upper receiver because anytime I see advertisement for FAL kits, they always say "Everything included except for lower receiver".
Johannes
Now I am really really confused about the gas regulator setting. When I was in the range, the empty casing was ejected from the rifle with supersonic speed (exaguration) from the rifle when the gas setting was at (#3). Like I said, my empties landed in other people's rifle cases 20 feet away from where I was at. When I turned the setting to (#1), the empties were ejected only to about 6 - 8 feet away from my bench. What's going on here? Do you think my observation was flawed? Well, maybe I just need to go back to the range and check it out again.
Oh yeah, thank you for the instruction about how to strip the safety lever from the lower receiver.
pbash: thank's for straightening my confusions about who made the upper / lower receivers. I mistakenly believed that HESSE made both the lower and upper receiver because anytime I see advertisement for FAL kits, they always say "Everything included except for lower receiver".
Johannes
Johan762, those ads probably say "everything included except the *upper* receiver". On a FAL, its the upper that has the serial number and is BATF controlled. Ignore the serial number on your lower on the left side. That was the serial number of the original rifle but that doesn't count with the new one.
It gets confusing sometimes because on an AR, for example, its the lower that has the serial number. Don't ask me why because there is little functional difference between a FAL and an AR lower.
[This message has been edited by pbash (edited January 25, 2000).]
It gets confusing sometimes because on an AR, for example, its the lower that has the serial number. Don't ask me why because there is little functional difference between a FAL and an AR lower.
[This message has been edited by pbash (edited January 25, 2000).]
Destructo6
New member
Johan762:
I'm probably wrong on that gas setting. Those crazy Belgians confuse me sometimes.
I'm probably wrong on that gas setting. Those crazy Belgians confuse me sometimes.