CCW safe lubricant

I would just find a good light gun grease for your slide rails, and lube less on the other moving parts. Some guns like to run wet more than others, like sigs - but for carry purposes/sd situation, even dry it should be able to put the amount of rounds you will need out the other end before coming close to malfunctioning. If you are really paranoid about your gun staying properly lubed, just check it every 2-3 weeks - and if needed apply a drop or 2 to a q-tip and wipe it down. On my carry guns if they haven't been shot, I will do this every few weeks mainly for any lint from my clothing that makes its way on/in the gun and relube if needed while I have it field stripped.
 
Froglube. Yeah, I know, I also thought it was a joke when the guys at the Sig Sauer Academy recommended it. But the gun I was using in a course there kept gumming up because I over-oiled it. The frog lube is a lubricant, cleaner and preservative, comes in a paste or a liquid (I use both), is non-toxic, biodegradeable, and smells like wintergreen. I really like being able to use just one product on my guns and I've found that it really works. Not available in many places, but you can find it online if you search.
 
I think you should stay with CLP - and just back off on the quantity a little....

I run my guns "wet" ....but not nearly as wet as you describe. I think keeping them clean and lubed is important ...but more, is not necessarily better.

I use CLP a lot ....but I've also used Gun Butter and Wilson Combat's Ultima Lube. I tried Wilson's Ultima Lube grease as well ...but I think its too heavy ( so I've gone back to his lube ) or to CLP.
 
Do you want to use a product that you don't have to see but know it's there to protect?
Do you want a product that resists fingerprints?
Want one that makes future cleanings easier?
How 'bout using less of the product to get great results?
Need the BEST corrosion resistance on the market? (my opinion)

Then buy Eezox and never look back.

The only other lube I use is a grease called TetraGrease. It goes on the slide/rails. Both products are used SPARINGLY.
 
Naw, I'm just a big fan of it. I'm pretty critical of what I do and use to care my guns. Spent a long time and tried quite a few products before settling on these two...:D

So, when you're ready, you can reach me via email at stuttle@eezox....I'm kidding!
 
The reason your drill sergeant put made sure that your M 16 was soaked with oil is because it uses an action type known as "direct impingement" which unfortunately deposits almost all of the burnt powder and gases into the action. (what a great idea THAT was Mr. Stoner) The extra oil keeps all that crud from turning into solid carbon gunk which can and usually does create a stoppage. Your 10/22 (and most firearms) does not require so much oil to operate but after 2000 rounds it surely needs a thorough cleaning of the action. Rimfire ammo produces a lot of fouling and rimfire firearms in general need more frequent cleaning than most centerfire firearms. Learn how to strip it and clean the gunk out of it and lube it lightly. A small amount of any kind of oil will work but you only need a thin layer on the moving parts. If it's running out of the action you are using a little too much.
 
I've used Ballistol for over 30 years. It was formulated in Germany over a century ago, the name being derived from its intended use as a ballistic oil, primarily formulated to protect the metallic parts of a rifle, and also protect wooden stocks and leather during the war. It is biodegradable and a non pollutant, and I don't believe it stains. It does however, protect, clean, preserve, lubricate and inpregnate; metal, wood, leather, plastic, etc. After lubricating all the interior moving parts sparingly, I spray a small amount on the outside of whatever firearm I'm lubricating, including the grips/stocks, and rub it in with my fingers. The only area of a pistol I do not lubricate with Ballistol is the slide rails, where I put a few dabs of Tetra Gun Grease.

Ballistol was introduced to my Dad some 40 years ago by Al Capone (not the infamous mobster), a superb gunsmith/custom gun maker, and then owner of King's Gun Works in Glendale, CA. Besides cleaning and protecting the metal, I use it on Ivory, bone, MOP, and exotic burl wood grips and stocks, and believe this product preserves the integrity of these materials better than any other product ever developed. Go to Ballistol.com to learn a bit more about this fantastic product, where one can also purchase it on line. IMHO, it's a truly worthwhile investment.

Shadow SD
 
I use CLP as I was an armorer in the service it works good and I have gallons of it. I apply it by putting a drop on a Q-tip and rubbing it on bearing surfaces that is enough, if you can see a light sheen you are oiled and will not have runoff.
 
I'm with armsmaster's method, 3 drops of CLP on a Q tip will do the whole job. In about 10 year's of IPSC shooting this was how we all did it. After many hundreds of rounds per session the CLP was still in the gun where I put it. Fouling wiped off with a rag. Punch the bore with a brush and run a clean patch soaked with CLP through the bore and you're done til next week's match.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top