CCI primer failure
- Thread starter Poconolg
- Start date
mineralman55
New member
CCI Primer Failure
A few weeks ago I had my first ever primer failure in 30 years of reloading. CCI 500 small pistol in a 9mm. I pulled the trigger and the gun went "pfffst" (yes, it did
). Stopped, cleared the weapon, inspected everything (the bullet was still in the case) went back to shooting. All was well. When I got home, I pulled the round apart and there was the proper amount of powder, so yes, it was a primer failure.
I looked thru my records and saw I had bought these primers years ago and always stored properly. They're not from the current period of buying frenzy and subsequent increase in production which could be blamed for lowering product quality.
My point is, stuff happens. Okay, I had a primer failure, but I'm not going to stop using CCI. When you consider the billions of primers that are produced, one is going to slip thru sooner or later.
A few weeks ago I had my first ever primer failure in 30 years of reloading. CCI 500 small pistol in a 9mm. I pulled the trigger and the gun went "pfffst" (yes, it did
). Stopped, cleared the weapon, inspected everything (the bullet was still in the case) went back to shooting. All was well. When I got home, I pulled the round apart and there was the proper amount of powder, so yes, it was a primer failure.I looked thru my records and saw I had bought these primers years ago and always stored properly. They're not from the current period of buying frenzy and subsequent increase in production which could be blamed for lowering product quality.
My point is, stuff happens. Okay, I had a primer failure, but I'm not going to stop using CCI. When you consider the billions of primers that are produced, one is going to slip thru sooner or later.
Magnum Wheel Man
New member
I had a box of a 1000 CCI that had a high failure rate, that was purchased mid shortage last big primer shortage... just futzing around, I think they were more sizing lube sensitive than normal... if I wet tumbled after sizing ( on those particular cases... I was using Frankford arsenal spray lube ) they worked like normal, if I didn't tumble & remove the residue, I was getting about a 25% failure rate... don't know if they missed a step on sealing them from the back side at +++ production rate or ???
condor bravo
New member
Yes MWM, I would think a contamination problem with a 25% failure rate. I'm inclined to think that just occasional failure is due to the hardness of the CCI primers coupled with a slightly weak striker impact. I specifically use the CCI primers for Garand loads because of their hardness, coupled with primer pocket depth uniforming, making them less susceptible to slams. From the thread, others use the uniformer on other cases but do not quite follow what some say that makes the CCIs difficult to seat. Never a misfire as most have pointed out.
Erikk,
What is the case length of the round(s) that didn't fire?
Could it be that they are a thousandth or 2 too short, which sets you up for a headspace problem?
I'm with the other posters here... it is extremely unlikely (though not impossible) that the primer actually failed.
I've got an old revolver with a bit of endshake, that occasionally will have the exact same problem... the firing pin hits the primer, drives the round and cylinder forward due to the excessive endshake, while also putting a normal-looking dent in the primer, without firing it. When it happens, you can restrike the primer any number of times, and usually it won't go off...every once in a while it will go off on the 2nd hit. But, when I take that FTF cartridge, pull the bullet and dump the powder, put the empty case with the unfired but dented primer in the revolver, hold the cylinder fully rear, and drop the hammer on it, it has fired that "Failed" primer every single time.
Just something to check...
What is the case length of the round(s) that didn't fire?
Could it be that they are a thousandth or 2 too short, which sets you up for a headspace problem?
I'm with the other posters here... it is extremely unlikely (though not impossible) that the primer actually failed.
I've got an old revolver with a bit of endshake, that occasionally will have the exact same problem... the firing pin hits the primer, drives the round and cylinder forward due to the excessive endshake, while also putting a normal-looking dent in the primer, without firing it. When it happens, you can restrike the primer any number of times, and usually it won't go off...every once in a while it will go off on the 2nd hit. But, when I take that FTF cartridge, pull the bullet and dump the powder, put the empty case with the unfired but dented primer in the revolver, hold the cylinder fully rear, and drop the hammer on it, it has fired that "Failed" primer every single time.
Just something to check...
CCI does have a harder primer cup than others. I've noticed that when testing different hammer springs in my SAs. That is one reason when I have my guns tuned, I ask to keep a heavier spring in mine, than what would normally be used by the gunsmith. I want the primer to go off no matter what the brand. When reloading, you do have to make sure the primer is fully seated. I use a hand primer tool and can feel it go home, and then a bit more pressure to fully seat. Works for me. There has only been one time that a CCI primer (faulty) never went off for me in all the years I've reloaded. I have had light primer strikes (no ignition) that were due to light hammer springs. Those springs get changed out. Another cause for me was I over filed the hammer when setting the transfer bar gap... New hammer was the solution there!
On multiple strikes still not firing a primer:
If the first or second strike breaks up the primer pellet without lighting it up, there's nothing between the anvil and primer cup to start things off. An alternative ignition method would be needed.
There is some possibility that if there is too bad of a mismatch between anvil height and cup depth, deep seating the primer could somewhat gently compress and break up the pellet. The other direction is too short of an anvil, no matter how perfectly the primer is seated, can result in the cup dissipating too much energy before compressing the pellet enough to start it up. Then the breakup problem can begin on the subsequent strikes.
If the first or second strike breaks up the primer pellet without lighting it up, there's nothing between the anvil and primer cup to start things off. An alternative ignition method would be needed.
There is some possibility that if there is too bad of a mismatch between anvil height and cup depth, deep seating the primer could somewhat gently compress and break up the pellet. The other direction is too short of an anvil, no matter how perfectly the primer is seated, can result in the cup dissipating too much energy before compressing the pellet enough to start it up. Then the breakup problem can begin on the subsequent strikes.
Hiram Abiff 106
Inactive
Im with you i always use winchester. Never tried cci. Ive tried remington and had the same problem youve had with your cci's.
William T. Watts
New member
Looks like the OP figured out the problem..
Everything I load I uniform every primer pocket, that has eliminated FTF for me, BTW I use nothing but CCI primers for everything I shoot.. I have never had a CCI primer FTF period.. Usually this failure can be traced back to the operator.. FWIW I always tumble my sized and prepped cases before priming and loading them. William
Everything I load I uniform every primer pocket, that has eliminated FTF for me, BTW I use nothing but CCI primers for everything I shoot.. I have never had a CCI primer FTF period.. Usually this failure can be traced back to the operator.. FWIW I always tumble my sized and prepped cases before priming and loading them. William
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StrutStopper
New member
CCI is my preferred brand of primer. Never did have a failure with them, but I suppose there's always a possibility. As others have suggested, seating depth or gun issue would be my guess.
CCI makes a great primer and I like them in my Magnum Revolvers with stock or heavy trigger pulls.
The primers seem a little hard on my competition revolvers with minimum trigger pulls of around 6 lbs or less. In that case I must use Federal Primers.
If your trigger is stock you should not be having problem unless they are not seated completely.
Rub your finger over the case and if the primer isn't 100 percent below the end of the cup that's your problem.
The primers seem a little hard on my competition revolvers with minimum trigger pulls of around 6 lbs or less. In that case I must use Federal Primers.
If your trigger is stock you should not be having problem unless they are not seated completely.
Rub your finger over the case and if the primer isn't 100 percent below the end of the cup that's your problem.
ligonierbill
New member
Just to add my unworthy experience, I load lots of .40 S&W for a Glock 23 using CCI 500 exclusively. Never had a failure.
I'd like to k ow if you ran the loads through again to see if they fired. I'd also like to know if you found light strikes.
Even the hardest brass shoul be no match for a blocks striker, imo, I've seen how they work.. I'm 99%certain that your pistol is at fault, or your reloading practices.
I have had light strikes and failures with my bodyguard, and that is absolutely the fault of the gun. Weak spring, tiny hammer, and poor design in the hammer.
Rule number one:carry only top grade and tested ammo for possible combat situations.
Rule number two: If any. Component of your reloading causes problems, you STOP using it, try new, and you may find that your problems vanish. Never follow off the norm practices, or use components that aren't absolutely correct. If your weapon gets flaky, you STOP using it until you found the problem.
Even the hardest brass shoul be no match for a blocks striker, imo, I've seen how they work.. I'm 99%certain that your pistol is at fault, or your reloading practices.
I have had light strikes and failures with my bodyguard, and that is absolutely the fault of the gun. Weak spring, tiny hammer, and poor design in the hammer.
Rule number one:carry only top grade and tested ammo for possible combat situations.
Rule number two: If any. Component of your reloading causes problems, you STOP using it, try new, and you may find that your problems vanish. Never follow off the norm practices, or use components that aren't absolutely correct. If your weapon gets flaky, you STOP using it until you found the problem.
Not sure whom you guys are referring to if it is me I can answer your questions. I know that I am new and still learning the reloading process. On my 2 FTF I tried a couple of times to get them to go off.
The strike looked the same as the ones that went off. The primers were set deep enough. I had a friend whom has been reloading since the 70s take a look at them and they didn't work in his pistol either. He was the one who told me they were bad primers. If I get a chance I will dig the box that they came out of the garbage and look for a lot number. Out of the millions of primers sold it is hard to believe that 100% of them are all good. Like I said I am new and depend on my friend for his expertise.
The strike looked the same as the ones that went off. The primers were set deep enough. I had a friend whom has been reloading since the 70s take a look at them and they didn't work in his pistol either. He was the one who told me they were bad primers. If I get a chance I will dig the box that they came out of the garbage and look for a lot number. Out of the millions of primers sold it is hard to believe that 100% of them are all good. Like I said I am new and depend on my friend for his expertise.