Cast my first boolits today!
- Thread starter Jector
- Start date
A good solvent cleaning should cure it. Brake cleaner or the like.
A normal rule of thumb is to size bullets 0.001" to 0.002" over groove diameter for least leading and best accuracy, so I would look for a .453" sizer if you are going to size them. In general, too big is better than too small, because too small tends to allow gas bypass and cutting of the bullet base that can introduces further leading and spoil accuracy.
A normal rule of thumb is to size bullets 0.001" to 0.002" over groove diameter for least leading and best accuracy, so I would look for a .453" sizer if you are going to size them. In general, too big is better than too small, because too small tends to allow gas bypass and cutting of the bullet base that can introduces further leading and spoil accuracy.
Thanks, I'm sizing some now. 0.453. I ordered a 0.452 die but the bullets are dropping out of it at 0.453, which I think will be fine. I'm just trying to tweak it so it will fill the lube grooves without getting lube on the ogive. Temperature / pressure relationship, temp. too high and the lube flows into the die resulting in lube on the ogive, too low and the lube grooves don't fill. I'm trying to warm the bullets to see if that helps. In theory a hot bullet will allow the lube to flow into the grooves easier while keeping the press temperature and therefore the lube a bit cooler (~110F) so it doesn't flow into the die between bullets gunking the ogive. 
IllinoisCoyoteHunter
New member
what setup do you have,,,lubesizer, lube, etc?? heater?? We may be able to help you get dialed in... 
Pouring ingots
Bent up my stainless steel spoon yesterday to make pouring easier since I don't have a ladle. Just thought I'd share...
There was a picture here but the server deleted it for some reason.
The lead pours much more controllably through the bent up spout at the tip.
Bent up my stainless steel spoon yesterday to make pouring easier since I don't have a ladle. Just thought I'd share...
There was a picture here but the server deleted it for some reason.
The lead pours much more controllably through the bent up spout at the tip.
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Hardness...
Here are some VERY back of the napkin hardness testing results...
The bullet on the left was heat treated in my kitchen oven at ~430 deg F for one hour then quenched in cold water for 5 min. Then let sit for 2 days to age harden. The bullet in the middle was quenched from the mold (dropped in water). The bullet on the right was air cooled from the mold. I simply laid the heat treated bullet next to each of the others one at a time and squeezed with a vice-grip pliers at no particular pressure. From the results you can see the heat treated bullet is much harder. All were cast from the same batch of alloy, wheel weights.
I also did the squeeze test against a bullet for Oregon Trail that I was told has a BHN of 24. It did leave a mark in my cast .45...
Makes me wonder if my heat treated .45 is too hard?
Here are some VERY back of the napkin hardness testing results...
The bullet on the left was heat treated in my kitchen oven at ~430 deg F for one hour then quenched in cold water for 5 min. Then let sit for 2 days to age harden. The bullet in the middle was quenched from the mold (dropped in water). The bullet on the right was air cooled from the mold. I simply laid the heat treated bullet next to each of the others one at a time and squeezed with a vice-grip pliers at no particular pressure. From the results you can see the heat treated bullet is much harder. All were cast from the same batch of alloy, wheel weights.
I also did the squeeze test against a bullet for Oregon Trail that I was told has a BHN of 24. It did leave a mark in my cast .45...
Makes me wonder if my heat treated .45 is too hard?
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Rangefinder
New member
Too hard? Nope--you aren't gonna get a lead alloy even close to the hardness of a copper jacket, and if you can find a way to make it harder than the steel of your barrel (which is about they only way I could consider a projectile too hard), then you really ought to retire on the billions you get from the chemistry patent.
Looking pretty good from where I'm sitting.
Now get yourself a lee hardness tester, so you really know how hard they really are. Good thinking though, relative hardness is a good tool to estimate, or see results.
Yeah, that formula and $42.99 will get you a lee hardness tester. Nice idea for testing hardness, but you need machinery to do it, not mathematics.
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=731364
A certain sized ball, pressed with measured pressure into the material being tested, then being able to read how far that ball penetrated that material. That's what hardness testing is all about.
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=731364
A certain sized ball, pressed with measured pressure into the material being tested, then being able to read how far that ball penetrated that material. That's what hardness testing is all about.
trip_sticker
New member
Basic Rules for Harding Lead-
For every 1% additional tin, Brinell hardness increases 0.3.
For every 1% additional antimony, Brinell hardness increases 0.9.
For a simple equation,
Brinell = 8.60 + ( 0.29 * Tin ) + ( 0.92 * Antimony )
For every 1% additional tin, Brinell hardness increases 0.3.
For every 1% additional antimony, Brinell hardness increases 0.9.
For a simple equation,
Brinell = 8.60 + ( 0.29 * Tin ) + ( 0.92 * Antimony )
IllinoisCoyoteHunter
New member
2" bore, 1" stroke.... I am looking for a 3" bore, 25" stroke, 38.25" retracted, 1.25" pins, 3.5" base clevis, 2" rod clevis, and rated to 3200 PSI.. If ya got 2 of these layin' around, I'd be interested... 
I am looking for a 3" bore, 25" stroke, 38.25" retracted, 1.25" pins, 3.5" base clevis, 2" rod clevis, and rated to 3200 PSI.. If ya got 2 of these layin' around, I'd be interested...