Case Cleaning ideas

I deprime after tumbling and don’t worry about cleaning the primer pockets.
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I actually broke a decapping pin trying that. The corncob kernel was stuck on the inside of the flash hole and just deflected the pin to the side where it broke trying to punch a hole through the case web.

Ultrasonics can be made to work. The following was done in a 35W/gallon (typical) energy density cleaner using the Frankford arsenal 5% citric acid solution, 140°F temperature. But I was using glass beakers in the big 2.5 gallon unit to separate cases at different stages of clean and rinse, and subsequently, it was pointed out to me that glass containers in an ultrasonic can absorb a significant amount of the sonic energy. It took 45 minutes.

You'll notice the pink that Marchbloom mentioned wherever the original case had significant oxidation, but it is very thin and fifteen minutes in the green Lyman corncob removes it and leaves the brass shiny. This is assuming, of course, that you want to polish. If you don't, the case tends to darken its yellow a little and that kind of oxidation actually protects the brass, as citric acid treatment is used on brass that is to be stored for long periods.

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To show how the citric acid leaves a pink stain in place of oxide, here's a .45 Auto case I found pressed into the mud at a range just after a rain that had probably been there a year or longer.

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Running detergent together with citric acid (usually as Lemishine) can be counterproductive. The acid has a pH below 7 while a lot of detergents have a pH either above 7 or at about 7 with buffers to keep it that way. These weaken the effectiveness of the acid. Besides, citric acid chelates minerals in the water, so it is a strong water softener and makes the water plenty slippery and able to clean. That is why no detergent is in the Hornady formulation. I used to add detergent to suspend dirt, but stopped.

I should go back and rerun the experiment with tarnished brass and the big ultrasonic without the glass beakers. But at the last NRA Annual meeting, I ordered a 1.5 gallon unit with 100W/gallon energy density. The wave action on the surface is much greater than with the other unit. The difference in cleaning power is like night and day, so I probably won't get back to the other one. Besides, I don't have any more of the heavily oxidized cases on hand. Those came from a flooded basement in the family, where they got wet and weren't discovered for two or three years. They all polished up just fine and shoot just fine.
 
I de-prime, clean the primer pocket, and then throw the brass into a bucket of water and Dawn. I agitate the brass in the bucket a few times, let it sit overnight, and agitate a few more times before rinsing. That does a good job of getting the powder and primer residue off the cases. After drying it goes into the vibratory tumbler.

That keeps the brass looking good for many reloading cycles. And washing the brass first greatly extends the life of the tumbler media.

Heavily tarnished brass goes into the wet tumbler with pins.
 
The main thing with cleaning primer pockets is to do it for high power rifle, and it's probably a good idea for all brass that sat around awhile before reloading. As discussed here, the carbon hardens over time and can contribute significantly to throat wear and, from the way the forcing cones of my .357 magnum revolver throats from before I was aware of any of that look, the magnums have enough pressure and carbon particle velocity to make it a contributor there, too.
 
I deprime after tumbling and don’t worry about cleaning the primer pockets.
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Same here for pistol. Since I do not shot thousands of rifle rounds (no AR in my home), I can clean primer pockets with the RCBS tool for such
 
OK I switched from corncob media to crushed walnut shells yesterday. 100 45 ACP cases that were very dirty looked clean but not shiny this morning. A added a dryer sheet and another 100 cases to see if it helps today.
 
I have never noticed that dryer sheets made brass shinier. They just cause the media dust to cling to it and it's easier to remove.

Soak the brass in a Lemishine solution (1/4 teaspoon Lemishine to 1 pint of water) for 45-60 minutes. Dry and then tumble in media. You will notice a dramatic change in the brass appearance within 5 minutes in the solution.
 
OK I switched from corncob media to crushed walnut shells yesterday. 100 45 ACP cases that were very dirty looked clean but not shiny this morning. A added a dryer sheet and another 100 cases to see if it helps today.
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What works for me is a half and half mix of walnut and corn cob with either dry red jeweler's rouge or a capful of Nu-finish added as well. Typical run time is about 2-3 hours.
 
Using walnut media vs. corn cob media provides for much more action in the bowl of a vibratory brass cleaner. When I used corn cob to remove the sizing lube from cases the cases moved VERY slowly and took about 1 hr to clean off the lube. And then there was still media stuck to the remaining lube in the case necks. Using walnut media it only took about 20-30 minutes and the necks were clean. So walnut is the only media I use for cleaning and lube removal.

This is what I use: Zilla Ground English Walnut Shells Desert Blend (from Amazon)
 
I put a box of 100 45 ACP cases that were filthy in last night with this mixture. This morning I went out and they look nice and clean and shiny. From what I can tell the walnut shell media is slower than corn cob but it does a good job overnight. The dryer sheet is almost dissolved. It would not be there after another 8 hours.


Quote ammo crafter "Vibrating tumbler with walnut media, and....a used dryer sheet will shine up your brass, and it's free. " End Quote
 
I use car wash&wax, with critic acid. The only shells that come out pinkish, are the brass coated steel, those I just toss...
 
What is the theory in blending walnut and corncob media?
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One is better at cleaning while the other seems to be better at polishing
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Agree, but I do those in separate runs, not a blend. Interesting. If it isn't too gunked up, I get great results with walnut and a blend of car polish and mineral spirits. Shortens run time dramatically. I am on my third tumbler, so avoiding burning up a motor is a priority.
 
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