can anyone give me a little s&W lesson on their light weight guns (not politics)

For the record...

The best of the old Charter Arms Undercovers like mine can indeed handle limited amounts of +P, especially factory 158s. The 110+P+ or the fast jacketed CorBons might be a bit much, but I've shot small numbers of each with no ill effect.

My gun was heavily tuned at some point, with a tight cylinder gap around .002". If it was stretching, I'd have noticed by now, because I check that regularly...along with lockup, which is still "welded to the frame tight".

Most of the horrible Charter rep came from the Charco days

That said, I cannot recommend the new Charter 2000 stuff without hearing more reports and doing some more checking. The new UnderCovers are going for $200 retail...if they hold up, they might end up being a better buy than at least a Taurus. The basic design is *better*, the only question is current QC levels.

Charter 2000 submitted the Undercover for Calif testing, and it's on the DOJ list. I *think* that means my gun is fully transferrable, not that I'd ever sell.
 
M-649

I regularly carry a S&W M-649. It's been duty-tuned (smoothed, but not lightened)and the SA sear has been removed, rendering the gun DAO. I realize some might object to this practice, but it's a matter of personal preference. I've been shooting DA revolvers in DAO mode all my shooting life, so have no need of a SA capability. I anticipate the gun will be used at no longer range than about 15 meters, therefore accuracy in DAO mode should suffice.

The gun wears little tiny rubber grips which I obtained from CDNN for about $4.00 a pair. They work great for concealment, but make the gun more difficult to shoot because of recoil recovery.

I load the gun with standard-pressure W-W silvertips, but I am told that it will handle limited amounts of +P. One of these days, I plan to run some 158-grain LSWCHP +P through it and see how it (and I) do.

This revolver has been an excellent piece which is easy to conceal, but becoming proficient with ANY J-frame revolver requires some practice. They're not the easiest guns to shoot.
 
juliet charlie, regarding your last post,

Your intitial point #1 is a non-issue. Unless you are carrying the Centennial muzzle-UP, in violation of Rule #2, stuff simply cannot work its way in there. I will admit, though, that the hollow 'trough' on the back of the MIM trigger sure does collect some lint.:eek:

You do make a good observation with point #2, in the latter half of your reply. When I put my stainless J-frame into the pocket, it certainly can 'swing out' as you describe and be seen. Either my shirt-tail has to be down over the opening, or the blued J-frame does pocket-duty, which is normally the case.:)

Mark IV, cylinder rotation checks can most certainly be done on the Centennials. First of all, one should periodically check that the cylinder rotates freely on its axis when open. In the past, my blued gun has corroded inside, on the ejector rod, causing some binding. Second, you can simply dry-fire the piece, making sure there are no problems there, with the action closed. I'm of the opinion that the Centennials also provide for better recoil control than the Bodyguard series. The way the frame rises up at the back of the grip doesn't allow your hand to roll up quite as easily.

As to the SP-101, it is unquestionably a fine piece, built like a tank, just like most Rugers. I just don't think you have to put up with the weight and bulk of one to comfortably carry and shoot .38 Special of any persuasion. If your aim is to carry and shoot a steady diet of .357, then that is another matter.

Just my $.02.
 
Cylinder rotation check?

Originally posted by VictorLouis:

Mark IV, cylinder rotation checks can most certainly be done on the Centennials. First of all, one should periodically check that the cylinder rotates freely on its axis when open. In the past, my blued gun has corroded inside, on the ejector rod, causing some binding. Second, you can simply dry-fire the piece, making sure there are no problems there, with the action closed. I'm of the opinion that the Centennials also provide for better recoil control than the Bodyguard series. The way the frame rises up at the back of the grip doesn't allow your hand to roll up quite as easily.


Hello VictorLouis,

What I am referring to is a rotation check with your carry ammo loaded in the cylinder !

I don't think that many of us would like to try that with a Centenial!

There are problems that affect cylinder rotation that will not show up in dry-firing the piece.

Burnt powder or unseen debris can collect under the extractor star, forcing the case head into the recoil shield and binding-up the cylinder. A cartridge case may not go "all the way home" with the same result.

I do a cylinder rotation check on my model 638 regularly. That way I know it will work when needed.

-Mk.IV
 
hankrearden2000

"I wish that Ruger would innovate a little and produce an alloy/titanium/scandium SP-101. Anyone heard that this may be a possibility?"

Ruger is against civillians carrying firearms for protection. And has no plans for to introduce a concealed carry firearm. That was still the jist of their message at the last Shot Show when queries about concealed carry dedicated weapons were made. OTOH the devil itself, Smith and Wesson, is caterer to civillian concealed carry with the plethora "alloy/titanium/scandium" revolvers.

This is nothing new for Ruger of course. They intentionally withheld Mini-14 Hi-Cap mags and folding stock models of Mini-14 from civillians for years. Their position was that this weapon, in the GB configeration and with Hi-Caps, was intended for government use not for civillian use. Not suprising from company who's Founder believes that "no honest man needs more than 10 rounds" and that actually helped WRITE and PASS the infamous "high capacity mag ban." They are a fox in the hen house, but they are treated like the family pet by most, including many hypocritical SW boycotters.
 
I'm a lover of fine Smith & Wesson DA revolvers myself. I always have been. In fact, all of my current revolvers are from S&W with the exception of my Taurus model 85, a great gun too.
 
Mark IV, that's no problem either.

:D With your carry ammo in the gun, push forward on the cylinder release and slightly unlock the cylinder. The cylinder stop will free up, allowing you to rotate each case head by the recoil shield to check for high-primers or binding.;)
 
My model 60 is usually in one of two places...my ankle in a renegade 500 or my back pocket in a homemade pocket holster....as far as lint and stuff goes, I rarely see anything that a quick blow on the gun won't cure.....if your gun binds up from pocket carry, you might want to start carrying your oreos in the other pocket......
 
Cylinder Binding?

Originally posted by VictorLouis:

Mark IV, that's no problem either.
With your carry ammo in the gun, push forward on the cylinder release and slightly unlock the cylinder. The cylinder stop will free up, allowing you to rotate each case head by the recoil shield to check for high-primers or binding.

VictorLouis-

I do not believe that your method for checking cylinder rotation with a loaded revolver is as thorough as my method - Cocking and de-cocking five or six times. You are checking only for free rotation while I am also testing the mechanism.


Originally posted by D.S.I.M.:

My model 60 is usually in one of two places...my ankle in a renegade 500 or my back pocket in a homemade pocket holster....as far as lint and stuff goes, I rarely see anything that a quick blow on the gun won't cure.....if your gun binds up from pocket carry, you might want to start carrying your oreos in the other pocket......


D.S.I.M.-

I haven't had a problem with dirt and debris getting into my 638 in pocket carry. I carry it in a Kramer pocket holster and I don't put anything else in that pocket!

Ankle carry is where your revolver will get dirty......

I don't worry about my cylinder binding-up - I check it every time I load it!

-Mk.IV :) ;)
 
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