Can .38 Sp. Be Loaded To .357 Specifications?

M

Martowski

New member
Hey all:

Just a quick question. Can .38 Specials be reloaded safely to .357 Mag. power? I have a 686 and a bunch of .38 Special cases. Will this generate too much pressure in the .38 special cases? As I see it, I would basically be throwing .357 powder charges in a .357 case. I'm not worried about the "danger" of firing these in a .38, as I only own a .357. I just want to know if this is a safe practice and, if not, why? Seems to me it would be just like loading .38 specials to +P+ power.

Thanks!
 
If you are using them in a magnum rated revolver, you should have no problem. As long as you remember which cases you loaded to magnum specs.
 
In a word, No.

The smaller case capacity can push a .357 Mag. load over the edge pressure wise.

That's why you don't see any reloading data that combine .357 Mag. loads with .38 Spl. cases.

Can the case PHYSICALLY withstand .357 Mag. pressures? Maybe, maybe not. I can't answer that for certain.
 
Have to agree with Mike here, the smaller case will produce higher pressures given the same loading data. You could certainly load .38 +P or even +P+ loads for use in the .357 gun. Using .357 data would call for a LOT of caution, starting at the lowest listed load and working up VERY carefully. Also going to gunk up the cylinder if you do a lot of it, requiring extra elbow grease when cleaning unless you never plan to put any .357 brass in this one.
 
Like Mike n Bob said....DO NOT use .357mag loading data in .38spec cases.

If you do some digging you can find .38spec loading data that falls into the .357mag range. Generaly it was called .38spec high vel. The stout loads were intended for Heavy Frame Guns only and the user was expected to observe the warning.....and to load up from a lighter starting load in a given gun.

Even tho you only own a .357mag, there is a chance that a friend could inadvertently use one of your hot .38 loads in their .38spec. Modern gun would probably hold it but why take the chance.

Sam...my favorite 9mm is the 9X32R
 
Why take the chance? New .357 cases are cheap compared to your hands and eyes.
 
Thanks for the responses!

I'll just buy a bunch of .357 brass, then, and stick to loading Semi-Wadcutter low-power stuff in my .38s.

Do any of you have any recommendations on which company's dies to get? I have all RCBS stuff (my father and I reloaded together) but have been considering Lee Carbide Pistol Dies (they seem a little cheaper). However, I don't want to get Lee dies if they aren't up to the quality of RCBS. The Lee dies will work in my RCBS Rockchucker, won't they?
 
Mart,

I've been using Lee Dies quite a bit over the past couple of years. I'm VERY happy with them.

I just got a set of .41 Mag. dies, but haven't had the chance to use them yet.
 
There is a reason that there is no info on .38sp cases loaded to .357mag specs. I have a feeling it is SAFETY!!
Don't chance it. It only takes one mistake......
Happy Intruder Shooting...............
 
I'm not a reloader, but are you guys talking compressed loads here or does the .38 have the capacity to go to magnum loads? I would think that compressed magnum loads would be a bad thing.
 
Riverdog,

Compressed loads are not at all a bad thing.

With some of the bulkier powders you do get compressed loads.

However, to get to .357 Mag. ballistics out of a .38 Spl. case you'd pretty much have to use a fast-burning powder. Most powders, slow burning or otherwise, tend to have a "tip over" point, where pressure spikes tend to get VERY dramatic. These are also called pressure "excursions."

That would likely be the problem in using too much fast burning powder in a case that is simply too small.

If you load WW 231, for instance, in .38 Spl., even a +P load, you will still have a lot of empty case left over.

If you keep putting powder in the case in an attempt to get more performance, you're going to get to that tip over point.

I've seen some data from the testing labs that have shown pressure excursions in some cartridges going from a normal of 25,000 psi to a pretty incredible 40,000+ psi with only a little more powder added to the case.
 
STOP!!! DO NOT USE .38 SPECIAL CASES FOR .357 MAGNUM LOADS!!! As, this is a dangerous practice. I concur with
the above poster's that this idea raise's some serious
questions and concern's. Realizing that you have an abundant
supply of .38 special cases; why would you want to live on
the edge of possible danger? After all, the .38 Special is one of the most accurate cartridge's available to the American shooter.:D:) Pushing any handgun round faster,
does not necessarily make it more accurate.:( Some case's
(like the aluminum Blazer's) would probably not withstand
the increase in pressure; and may blow apart, destroying
the weapon and injuring the shooter!!!:( So, stay safe
and within the parameter's of the printed material available
in your favorite handloading manual.:D:)

Best Wishes,
Ala Dan, N.R.A. Life Member
 
Mart,

Just food for thought on the die brand question. I haven't tried Lee dies, but I'm sure they are OK. I've used RCBS, Dillon, and Redding. I can't tell much of a difference among them, but I haven't reloaded as much as many have. (You might email WESHOOT2 on this question, as he makes A LOT of ammo.)

However, I've decided to buy Redding from now on because they have a reputation as being of the highest quality. I figure that a person shouldn't skimp on the quality of their tools, and considering that it's a one-time expense, the extra $20 for Redding isn't that much in the long run. When I screw the die inserts and plugs up and down in the Redding dies they feel very smooth compared to other brands, which suggests to me they are machined to better tolerances.

Anyway, just something to consider.

Best,
AndyP
 
You can load .38 Specia cases to produce .357 Magnum performance levels, but be extremely careful what .38 Special revolvers you fire them in. I restrict their use to a S&W N frame Heavy Duty MOdel.
 
I'm with Hardball--go ahead. Your case capacity is less so the actual loads will be slightly yes, but you can load to .357 pressures in the right gun.

If you own a .38 that would be strained by accidentally slipping one of these into its cylinder and firing, do what everybody else says and use only .357 brass. But if all I had was something like a S&W M27 or M686 I would have no problem running hot .38s most of the time.
 
Yes, start about 10 gr of 2400 and work up. I think a guy I use to shoot with ran 11 or 12 grains 2400 with a 158gr SWC to make a major IPSC .38 revolver. Consult a reloading manual before trying any of the numbers that I have suggested. It has been 15 years since I shot this load in my gun and time takes a toll.
 
Actually, on further thought, I think I'll just stick to .38 loads in .38s and .357 loads in .357s.

I'm going to set up the reloading bench soon again and get everything back up and running. Just gotta get myself some .38/.357 dies, a shell holder, some powder and primers and bullets, and I'll be off and running!
 
The term ".357 power" covers a lot of ground. For instance, some of today's wimpier .357 commercial loads are nowhere near the power level of the original .357 Magnums, nor do they compare with what the .357 can be loaded for in an extremely strong action like a TC Contender or a Freedom Arms revolver.

Tell us just what you want in terms of bullet weight and velocity and we can give better advice.
 
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