Calculating reloading costs

You can figure your cost per bullet using a simple Excel spreadsheet, cost of press, dies, scale, tools, powder, brass, primers, bullets. Keep adding to the totals when you purchase anything, and keep a total for number of bullets.

Then divide total cost by number of bullets, that's cost per round, loaded or not. To start, you'll see a number like $1,000 for the first round, then $500 for the second, and so on.

If you want to separate things out by caliber, just add a couple of columns. They should all total up to equal your total cost as a check.

Don't bother keeping track of the number of reloads per case, except as a side issue. just add the cost of new brass when you replace worn-out cases. The number of bullets vs. cost is the simplest way to track it.

Having said all that, I found out that it took about two years to amortize the expense of the gear and components to reload 18 calibers, down to a level that approached commercial prices of loaded ammo. Some calibers, like, say, .416 Rigby, I was saving money with the first 20 rounds, including the cost of dies, but when you look at the total expense vs. rounds loaded for all 18 calibers, the .416 Rigby data won't change things more than a penny or two.

Now I'm down to an overall cost per round, after three years, that is looking pretty good. The reason I started to reload, however, was to enjoy the hobby, which was an immediate benefit.
 
jmr40 is probably close to why I got into it. I started forming cases from other cases. I got tired of waiting for the "Seasonal run" of a lot of U.S. manufactured ammo.
 
How do I amoratize my equipment over the last 25 years?

How about the cost of dies for a specific cartridge during that time?

Cases... 5 - 30+ reloadings virgin vs. range pick ups?


Plinker vs. social ammo?


add your own variables here.....


Got the picture??
 
I don't bother factoring brass into the cost of my reloads.

If I use new brass, or buy "once fired" brass, I may figure the cost into the first loading, but after that, I consider it paid for, and take it out of the equation.

Range pick brass isn't factored in at all, I was there any way to shoot, and happened to pick up some free brass the last guy left behind, it cost me nothing, and isn't figured into my reloading costs.

I also don't figure in the cost of any of my reloading equipment, or time, like some guys do.

Primer, bullet, and powder, that's it.

All that said, I don't keep track of what my reloads cost anymore. I know they are cheaper than buying factory ammo, and I enjoy reloading my own ammo...............haven't bothered to figure out a cost per round in several years.
 
I have brass that my father was loading in the 70's. I have no clue on how many times it has been reloaded. Except for some odd ball calibers I don't typically buy brass but buy loaded ammo and/or pick up my brass and whatever else is around.

The reloading equipment paid for itself the first 3 or 4 months loading. Dies pay for themselves in 300 to 400 rounds. The biggest plus is I have very accurate ammo at less than bottom dollar BS ammo I can get from the big box stores. It also allows me to shoot more.

Buy powder in bulk. Buy primers in bulk. And buy bullets in bulk. If you can get with a few local reloader's and form a local buyers group to get the maximum price breaks that is more that you can save. I have a buddy that I buy 45 bullets with - he shoots ACP and I shoot GAP and ACP. He also shoots 40 cal but does not shoot 9mm. I shoot 9 but do not shoot 40. Every so often he and I trade 9 for 40 for the "extra" range pickup that we acquire.
 
Devon 226, that is some very expensive powder $94/lb?
You're right. I couldn't remember how many grains were in the container that I have. It is a little different tho. It's only 14oz instead of 16. I was just trying to do the calculations off of the top of my head
 
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