That is my practice load. I load several thousand a year.
My revolver is also a 357 MGN, a S&W M640. Its nice to have a lot of "headroom"!
I use 4.5 gr of HP-38, which is the same as WW231. Just different containers.
I use a COL of 1.445 inch. That should put the mouth in the cannelure and with revolvers that is all you need to be concerned with.
I don't think you will have any problem starting with plated bullets. I can not use lead bullets at my indoor range. They are concerned about ventilation. The only area where you need to treat plated differently is the crimp. Just use enough to remove any flair left from case mouth expansion. A heavy crimp is not required. You might practice with a dummy round. No powder or primer. You can test the crimp by trying to push the bullet into the case or using a hammer (kinetic) type puller to see how many wacks it takes to pull the bullet. The only problem no crimp would cause is other bullets in the cylinder trying to "jump crimp" under recoil. It acts like a puller. You can fire a few single shot tests with none of the other chambers loaded, to eliminate that variable. If the bullets did pull, it can tie up the cylinder so the gun won't function. I have not had any problems with that using 38 SPL load data. It is more likely with light revolvers and heavy MGN loads. That requires a very heavy crimp. I use a Lee Factory Crimp Die. One half turn of the screw gives a nice crimp without damaging the plating. I have pulled bullets to check for plating damage, and have not found any. I tried one and a half turns once and pulled the bullet. There was a nice grove about 1 mm deep, but the plating was not broken.
I get good accuracy with my plated loads. In any case, I would recommend seating bullets, and crimping, in separate steps, at least until you have some experience. Some like to do both at the same time. There is some interaction that could cause problems, at least in theory. Crimping separately takes a little longer, but there are no other downsides.
When you reuse your brass, you will need to give some thought as to how, or if, you want to clean it. Many use a tumbler. I just wash in detergent in a bucket for about a half hour, with several vigorous stirs. I also like to follow with a similar rinse in vinegar and water. Rinse well with water and dry throughly. I de-prime before I clean to get the pockets clean. Some don't clean the brass, and it is not strictly necessary. If the brass has grit on it, it could scratch up your dies. Probably best to clean or wipe before reloading. If you want your brass to last as long as possible, just use enough case mouth expansion to seat the bullet without crushing the case. Excess expansion will shorten the life of the cases. I get more than ten loads out of my brass with 38 SPL loads. Eventually you will see splits near the case mouth, at least that is where my brass has first shown signs of needing to go to the recycle bin.
Best,
Rick
