Broken Trigger Pin - S&W N frame

Ok, I understand your point...( this gun is not for sale )..but in my view a "pin" is a pin ...and if in fact, if it is stronger than the original pin that was put in the gun in the early 80's... it sure doesn't diminish it much - if any.

Bottom line for me....is I'll continue to shoot the gun ( a lot )...and cosmetically, the finish remains intact externally so its original appearance, for me, remains intact which is all I wanted when it broke.
 
Put another 150 rds thru it this afternoon...../ ...in and out of a holster with some tactical drills ( draw and fire 3 inside of 4 sec.../ ...and tried some speed reloads ( which I suck at on a revolver )....

Happy to report that the gun is as smooth as ever....in both double and single action ....like having an old friend back home !! Great day !
 
Sounds like neat solution and one I admit I would not have thought of. But as long as there is enough support on the frame side there should be no problem.

Jim
 
I will make a note to myself ....to update the forum on the durability of the repair ( I'll probably have another 5,000 rds thru it by next summer ) ....assuming all goes well " fingers crossed".... ( all my own reloads .357 mag 158 gr JHP Montana Gold using Hodgdon TiteGroup or Unique to upper mid range published recipes )....

It's not a carry gun ....or a primary gun ...but I like to exercise it regularly ....
 
I put another 650 rds thru it in the last week . ( 150 of them Thurs evening)...it continues to run and feel great !!

Today I took off the side plate and inspected everything ...looks good / so i'm considering the repair "as good as new" and a closed issue .
 
I put another 1,000 rds thru the gun in the last couple of months...since my last update../.. in my view, the new pin repair is a near permanent long term fix.
 
After some time considering my options.......a gun smith friend was able to drill out the broken pin from the inside, without drilling thru the frame exterior or the Nickel plating.../ replace the original pin, with a new pin made from spring steel ...locktighting the new pin into the frame.
Click to expand...
While I was reading through the thread, I kept thinking..why not drill "most of the way" (not all the way) through?

Then tap the hole and turn a new pin with threads, and thread it in tight.

A good machinist could do that without too much difficulty (as always, you are paying for his time, and a good machinist's time is not cheap...) but the results would be satisfactory (no external "reminders").

Sounds like you came to the same conclusion.

I'd have opted for a threaded pin as opposed to one pressed in with LocTite (mostly because it could be replaced in the future in the unlikely event it should break again) but the end result is very similar.

Really happy to see that you worked it out so that you could keep this revolver and continue to enjoy it regularly.
 
a gun smith friend was able to drill out the broken pin from the inside
Click to expand...

I am late to this discussion. Glad you got it figured out. The entire time I was reading it, and understanding it was nickel, I was thinking clamp it in an end mill and do not go all the way through. Looks like you came to about the same conclusion.

I am also a big fan of older S&W's and one of the few I know that really likes nickel. I might have a better time warming up to newer S&W's if they would drop some of the ugly poorly finished stainless and put some out in nickel. Even the new blued guns do not look as good to me as older 27's and 28's.
 
Most everything changes over time...some for the better / some not ----- in my view, the new S&W revolvers ( like the pair of model 627's I bought ) are pretty nice guns with good triggers....but purely from an appearance standpoint, the old model 27's are just something special.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top