I use the plastic bag method, but usually start with the thicker Mil bags, such as the Don Hume holster bags. I keep the gun in the holster for a day or two, then check the gun for fit. If it's still too tight (not usually) then I'll add a thinner sandwich bag. So far, it's worked for me.
breaking in a new leather holster?
- Thread starter ftballgod
- Start date
i meant to do the soap on the smooth part of the leather if its the outside surface. not the rough side or the inside pocket of the holster. and definitely not to over do it. do this as a protection against cracking.
*shrugs*
maybe clear shoe polish would be better than the soap?
i've not had any problem with the soap myself though
i love this insight on the plastic bags though, i'll totally be adopting it for my newest holster (cz sp01 phantom)
The last leather holster I bought came with break in instructions. They recommended using wax paper. You wrap the gun with the non waxy side of the paper against the gun (unloaded of course), and put it in the holster overnight. I did this for my Glock 22 and it worked fine.
Most of the methods mentioned operate on the same theory, using a plastic bag, saran wrap, or wax paper all increase the thickness of the gun just a little bit so it stretches some. But it probably isn't something that a little sweat and daily wear can't accomplish.
Most of the methods mentioned operate on the same theory, using a plastic bag, saran wrap, or wax paper all increase the thickness of the gun just a little bit so it stretches some. But it probably isn't something that a little sweat and daily wear can't accomplish.
Montana Griz
Inactive
I have read this whole thread and still have a question..........
Gun is a walther P99 ......
HOLSTER IS A VEGA (MFG IN ITALY) SPECIFICALLY FOR A P99.
Fit is extremely tight.......I've used three sandwich size freezer bags & .one large gallon size..........it still is too tight.
The holster is very well made, BUT WITH VERY STIFF LEATHER...............
QUESTION:....why so many cautions about not using any "leather oil" like Fiebings on the leather, then insert the gun in about 3 bags and set it out in the sun for a.n afternoon???
I just don't understand the warnings about lightly oiling the inside surface and then using the freezer bag trick........... What am I not understanding about using oil on the leather.
The gun by the way is the finest pistol I have had in my 60 some years of collecting and shooting and handloading for .
Right out of the box with 115 gr FMJ 9MM........with a two handed grip from my bench, I can consistently put 3 into one inch at 30 feet....only have put 250 through it up to now.
Love the "A'S" TRIGGER system and the fit of the gun into my hand is perfect.
Have: S&W 669 in 9mm.......S&W 29 in 44 mag....... Ruger Single six in 357.......Colt SAA in 45........Sig 1911C3 45acp ....and a S&W mod 60 in .38spec............of them all, the Walther is the most fun to shoot and the most accurate.
Being in my 84th year, I still enjoy punching holes in paper and keeping the pest population down in my area.
Gun is a walther P99 ......
HOLSTER IS A VEGA (MFG IN ITALY) SPECIFICALLY FOR A P99.
Fit is extremely tight.......I've used three sandwich size freezer bags & .one large gallon size..........it still is too tight.
The holster is very well made, BUT WITH VERY STIFF LEATHER...............
QUESTION:....why so many cautions about not using any "leather oil" like Fiebings on the leather, then insert the gun in about 3 bags and set it out in the sun for a.n afternoon???
I just don't understand the warnings about lightly oiling the inside surface and then using the freezer bag trick........... What am I not understanding about using oil on the leather.
The gun by the way is the finest pistol I have had in my 60 some years of collecting and shooting and handloading for .
Right out of the box with 115 gr FMJ 9MM........with a two handed grip from my bench, I can consistently put 3 into one inch at 30 feet....only have put 250 through it up to now.
Love the "A'S" TRIGGER system and the fit of the gun into my hand is perfect.
Have: S&W 669 in 9mm.......S&W 29 in 44 mag....... Ruger Single six in 357.......Colt SAA in 45........Sig 1911C3 45acp ....and a S&W mod 60 in .38spec............of them all, the Walther is the most fun to shoot and the most accurate.
Being in my 84th year, I still enjoy punching holes in paper and keeping the pest population down in my area.
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I use a product that the belt man sells on all my holsters and gun belts found here, http://www.thebeltman.net/www/htdocs/preserve.htm
Dfariswheel
New member
The reason not to use any oils or most other treatments on a finished holster is because many leather treatments are intended to soften the leather. Soft leather stretches.
That's okay for gloves or saddles, but a softened holster will stretch excessively, which will ruin it.
Once a holster stretches to the point where the gun isn't retained well or is free to shift and move around in the holster, the holsters service life is over, NO MATTER how good it looks. It can look brand new and be brand new but no longer serviceable.
Applying oils or most other leather treatments to a modern CCW type holster can cause years worth of damage and prematurely "wear" the holster out.
In addition, a stretched holster that lets the gun shift around wears the guns finish much faster from the friction.
By far the safest way to break in a holster is to wear it and use it.
If it's just too tight, use the plastic or wax paper method and forget oiling or wetting the leather.
Once a holster is stretched too much by normal use or by improper fitting methods, there's no "fixing" it.
Contrary to popular belief, holster type cowhide doesn't shrink when wet, it only stretches.
You may wet and re-mold a holster to a gun but that's a very temporary fix and the holster will quickly open up even more.
If you have a holster that's just too abnormally hard for some reason, a light application of Lexol leather Conditioner, followed by just wearing the holster and gun until it breaks in should do it.
Some people complain that new holsters are not comfortable.
Jeff Cooper once said that a gun and holster isn't supposed to be comfortable, it's supposed to be comforting.
That's okay for gloves or saddles, but a softened holster will stretch excessively, which will ruin it.
Once a holster stretches to the point where the gun isn't retained well or is free to shift and move around in the holster, the holsters service life is over, NO MATTER how good it looks. It can look brand new and be brand new but no longer serviceable.
Applying oils or most other leather treatments to a modern CCW type holster can cause years worth of damage and prematurely "wear" the holster out.
In addition, a stretched holster that lets the gun shift around wears the guns finish much faster from the friction.
By far the safest way to break in a holster is to wear it and use it.
If it's just too tight, use the plastic or wax paper method and forget oiling or wetting the leather.
Once a holster is stretched too much by normal use or by improper fitting methods, there's no "fixing" it.
Contrary to popular belief, holster type cowhide doesn't shrink when wet, it only stretches.
You may wet and re-mold a holster to a gun but that's a very temporary fix and the holster will quickly open up even more.
If you have a holster that's just too abnormally hard for some reason, a light application of Lexol leather Conditioner, followed by just wearing the holster and gun until it breaks in should do it.
Some people complain that new holsters are not comfortable.
Jeff Cooper once said that a gun and holster isn't supposed to be comfortable, it's supposed to be comforting.
