I just ordered a new leather holster and was curious how people recommend breaking them in? My Father always treated the inside of a new holster several times with of all things - Vaseline. If I remember right after a few treatments the leather developed a kind of patina that was pretty easy on the finish of guns. Any other advice or old tricks to “break-in” a new leather holster?
Breaking-In a New Holster
- Thread starter BarryLee
- Start date
Took Bill Jordan's advice once.
He said to throw the holster in a horse trough and let it soak for a couple hours. Then remove and let it dry out some. Then, while still fairly wet (but not soaked), insert gun and use an elongated round object to form the leather to the gun. Then let it dry out for a while with gun. Then remove gun and let it completely dry. Don't use heat of any kind. Use thin plastic wrap on the gun to prevent rust, or plenty lube.
Worked absolutely great. Holster fit my 586 like a glove.
Don't use saddle soap! it softens the leather. Shoe polish works fine.
Only did it once. Now I just leave gun in holster and use car wax or non greasy silicon type spray so gun isn't too hard to draw. When it wears in, those substances won't be necessary.
He said to throw the holster in a horse trough and let it soak for a couple hours. Then remove and let it dry out some. Then, while still fairly wet (but not soaked), insert gun and use an elongated round object to form the leather to the gun. Then let it dry out for a while with gun. Then remove gun and let it completely dry. Don't use heat of any kind. Use thin plastic wrap on the gun to prevent rust, or plenty lube.
Worked absolutely great. Holster fit my 586 like a glove.
Don't use saddle soap! it softens the leather. Shoe polish works fine.
Only did it once. Now I just leave gun in holster and use car wax or non greasy silicon type spray so gun isn't too hard to draw. When it wears in, those substances won't be necessary.
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Kreyzhorse
New member
Put your gun in the holster. Wear the holster. Repeat. That's really all you need to do to break in a holster.
If the holster fits really tight, simply leaving the gun in it for a couple of days usually does the trick.
Never put saddle soap or any thing else on holster to break it in. You want the leather to remain rigid.
If the holster fits really tight, simply leaving the gun in it for a couple of days usually does the trick.
Never put saddle soap or any thing else on holster to break it in. You want the leather to remain rigid.
Most of my holsters required no breaking in...
... but then, I ordered model specific holsters from a friend who has blanks for them; the leather is pre-fitted and stretched.
I've watched Sam Andrews working in his shop, and seen how he tools the holsters. I've ordered some gear from him over his phone, posted on his website; others I bought by dropping by his place.
He also has some pretty cool belts and rifle scabbards, and nice exotic leathers (these arrive kind of randomly; sometimes he has had crocodile, other times ray, other times hippopotamus....) I have one 1911 paddle holster in crocodile, that Sam mailed to me in Georgia so I could see if I wanted to spend the money on it; he trusted me to either pay him, or return the holster in new condition. It's nice to be on good terms with people who make neat stuff.
I've ordered several other holsters from Simply Rugged; not sure if Rob Leahy uses the same types of blanks, as I've never seen his shop, but his holsters have fit the guns I've ordered holsters for quite well, too. He also has very fast turnaround times on orders.
Sorry, digressed a bit from the OP's question.
But my point is, if you buy a holster specific to your actual pistol, from a reputable maker, the break-in required can be next to nil.
... but then, I ordered model specific holsters from a friend who has blanks for them; the leather is pre-fitted and stretched.
I've watched Sam Andrews working in his shop, and seen how he tools the holsters. I've ordered some gear from him over his phone, posted on his website; others I bought by dropping by his place.
He also has some pretty cool belts and rifle scabbards, and nice exotic leathers (these arrive kind of randomly; sometimes he has had crocodile, other times ray, other times hippopotamus....) I have one 1911 paddle holster in crocodile, that Sam mailed to me in Georgia so I could see if I wanted to spend the money on it; he trusted me to either pay him, or return the holster in new condition. It's nice to be on good terms with people who make neat stuff.
I've ordered several other holsters from Simply Rugged; not sure if Rob Leahy uses the same types of blanks, as I've never seen his shop, but his holsters have fit the guns I've ordered holsters for quite well, too. He also has very fast turnaround times on orders.
Sorry, digressed a bit from the OP's question.
But my point is, if you buy a holster specific to your actual pistol, from a reputable maker, the break-in required can be next to nil.
Magnum Wheel Man
New member
following along the lines some others have said... if your holster is already molded to your gun... not much is needed as far as break in...
I'm a budding holster maker myself ( so far, I'm not selling any, I just have a lot of guns, & friends
)
when the holster is not molded to the gun, what has worked well for me, is to use a good leather conditioner, & soak the leather pretty good, put the gun in, & wear it for a day... I have a couple I've made, that are still nice & stiff, yet fit the gun like they were made for them ( which esentially they were )
I'm a budding holster maker myself ( so far, I'm not selling any, I just have a lot of guns, & friends
)when the holster is not molded to the gun, what has worked well for me, is to use a good leather conditioner, & soak the leather pretty good, put the gun in, & wear it for a day... I have a couple I've made, that are still nice & stiff, yet fit the gun like they were made for them ( which esentially they were )
The main IWB holster I build is a personal design, . . . and part of that design is so that it WILL BECOME a part of the wearer, . . . so to speak.
It can be worn IWB or IWB tucked out of sight.
For the weapon, . . . put it in the holster, . . . there is no break in period, . . . period!
For the owner, . . . put it on & insert firearm, . . . get in your car, . . . drive a couple hours to a well liked eatery, . . . eat, . . . drive home.
By the time you get into your living room comfy chair, . . . you should be oblivious to the holster's presence, . . . as it has now conformed to your body shape, . . . etc.
When asked about what to use on the holster, . . . I simply reply, shoe polish. Do not use any kind of oil, none, nada, nein, ixnay: it will soften and ruin the leather. You will wind up with a poor imitation to a suede holster.
Saddle soap, . . . especially glycerine saddle soap will clean off junk that gets on your holster, . . . but be careful with even it, . . . twice a year is plenty.
If the holster is properly boned for the weapon, the most one should have to do is the saran wrap trick previously mentioned, . . . or use a freezer bag if it is really tight.
Bill Jordan often gave some good advice, . . . the advice quoted in a previous post is dated, antiquated, and is out of tune with all but the very cheapest, sorry excuse imports you get from Cheaper Than Dirt or Wal Mart.
May God bless,
Dwight
It can be worn IWB or IWB tucked out of sight.
For the weapon, . . . put it in the holster, . . . there is no break in period, . . . period!
For the owner, . . . put it on & insert firearm, . . . get in your car, . . . drive a couple hours to a well liked eatery, . . . eat, . . . drive home.
By the time you get into your living room comfy chair, . . . you should be oblivious to the holster's presence, . . . as it has now conformed to your body shape, . . . etc.
When asked about what to use on the holster, . . . I simply reply, shoe polish. Do not use any kind of oil, none, nada, nein, ixnay: it will soften and ruin the leather. You will wind up with a poor imitation to a suede holster.
Saddle soap, . . . especially glycerine saddle soap will clean off junk that gets on your holster, . . . but be careful with even it, . . . twice a year is plenty.
If the holster is properly boned for the weapon, the most one should have to do is the saran wrap trick previously mentioned, . . . or use a freezer bag if it is really tight.
Bill Jordan often gave some good advice, . . . the advice quoted in a previous post is dated, antiquated, and is out of tune with all but the very cheapest, sorry excuse imports you get from Cheaper Than Dirt or Wal Mart.
May God bless,
Dwight
I use Kramer holsters ( horsehide ) exclusively on all my handguns ...so I respect their advice on good leather holsters ....
Here's what they think ...and advise ...
http://www.kramerleather.com/faq.cfm#q1
Here's what they think ...and advise ...
http://www.kramerleather.com/faq.cfm#q1
aarondhgraham
New member
Ooh,,, Very bad,,, Very bad indeed,,,
Vaseline is a petroleum product which is very very harsh on vegetable tanned leather.
Not bad advice, just sorta overkill,,,
Dunking a holster in water shouldn't take more than 30 seconds,,,
There is no virtue in submerging a holster for more than a minute at most.
Wrap you gun in about 10 to 15 feet of Saran Wrap to build up a bit of bulk and protect it from water damage.
But remove and replace the gun in the holster many many many times to form the leather to fit the draw.
Alloy the holster to dry completely with the gun in it after you have formed it properly.
The reason so many manufacturers prefer horsehide is specifically because when it is water formed it dries harder and stiffer than cowhide,,
Makes great holsters but lousy boots and saddles.
This is good advice,,,
This is true because most people will slather the oil on until the leather is saturated,,,
It's due to the American Swine Theorem that states "If a little is good, a whole lot must be better."
Aarond's recommendations:
Don't oil the holster heavily if you want it to remain stiff,,,
Use saddle soap twice a year to clean the surface,,,
That also conditions the leather against cracking.
If you feel you absolutely must oil your leather use Lexol or neatsfoot oil,,,
Use a cotton cleaning patch and wipe a tiny (teeny-tiny) film on the surface of the leather,,,
This will condition the outer grain of the leather to prevent cracking without soaking too deeply which makes the leather floppy.
.
aarondhgraham
New member
Hello YZR,,,
I'll bet it was the wax being transferred to the exact pressure spots,,,
That would provide very precise lubrication to fit.
I'm going to have to try that one day,,,
Thanks for the idea.
.
I'll bet it was the wax being transferred to the exact pressure spots,,,
That would provide very precise lubrication to fit.
I'm going to have to try that one day,,,
Thanks for the idea.
.
this might sound like nonsense
this might sound like nonsense, but I have some mexican friends who work leather, (for those who live in the southwest wouldn't sound strange, since some places where saddles are made, expert mexican workers are brought to do the job).
Leaving that aside, this guy makes cool holsters, the thing of it is though, he makes them flat, absolutely flat, with the instruction to dip them in water, and and then you put the pistol inside, when the leather is dry you return it for a final wax up and tint whatever,from then on that pistol is going to stay in place
Not saying you should do the same, just an interesting case I thought I would share. Ha s anyone seen this?
this might sound like nonsense, but I have some mexican friends who work leather, (for those who live in the southwest wouldn't sound strange, since some places where saddles are made, expert mexican workers are brought to do the job).
Leaving that aside, this guy makes cool holsters, the thing of it is though, he makes them flat, absolutely flat, with the instruction to dip them in water, and and then you put the pistol inside, when the leather is dry you return it for a final wax up and tint whatever,from then on that pistol is going to stay in place
Not saying you should do the same, just an interesting case I thought I would share. Ha s anyone seen this?
aarondhgraham
New member
it's not nonsense,,, just sorta odd is all,,,,,
This may be because he doesn't have any pistols to use to form the leather,,,
That's the only reason I can see for him having you wet-form the leather
I have a lot of the more common frame sizes,,,
And for guns I don't own I order aluminum cast blanks,,,
I get them from an outfit in Michigan called Duncan Customs.
If you make a lot of holsters they really help.
.
This may be because he doesn't have any pistols to use to form the leather,,,
That's the only reason I can see for him having you wet-form the leather
I have a lot of the more common frame sizes,,,
And for guns I don't own I order aluminum cast blanks,,,
I get them from an outfit in Michigan called Duncan Customs.
If you make a lot of holsters they really help.
.
Matt Del Fatti of Del Fatti Leather told me to use shoe polish on the outside. Nothing on the inside, except when wearing a holster that's too tight. He recommended a non oily Silicon based spray as a temporary measure until the holster breaks in.
The Silicon or whatever you use, allows you to actually use a new holster that's a tight fit. Some holsters are initially so tight that you couldn't reliably draw the gun. Something slick, used on a temporary basis, solves that problem until the holster breaks in.
http://delfatti.com/ Good info no matter what holster you buy.
The Silicon or whatever you use, allows you to actually use a new holster that's a tight fit. Some holsters are initially so tight that you couldn't reliably draw the gun. Something slick, used on a temporary basis, solves that problem until the holster breaks in.
http://delfatti.com/ Good info no matter what holster you buy.
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dalegribble
New member
if the holster is lined, then i do nothing. if the inside is a coarse leather then i take a wax candle and rub it all over the inside of the holster. then i use my fingers and rub in the wax. i'm not sure what else it does but it makes drawing the gun easier and seems to be kinder on the guns finish too. anyway i've been doing this for years with no ill effects.