brass or steel frame

A buddy who bought a brass .44 in 1973 shot the arbor loose in less than 500 rounds, and not loading heavy.
My .36 brass from '69 is still shootable, but long retired.

I didn't know any better back then, now I do.
Pay the difference, forget about "cheaper", and go steel.
Denis
 
Hawg the beginner.......

Hmmmmm..... looks like he began.... about 10,000 posts before Model12win.

The steel is a much better investment. I'd rather have a used steel than a new brasser, unless it was going over the fireplace.....and even then probably steel. But if you like bling and polishing as much as shooting, and don't want to burn much powder.....
 
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Driftwood Johnson: Bottom line? It is a wall hanger today. Too many 30 grain loads (nobody was cautioning against heavy loads in a brass framed gun back then) and the barrel now points skyward when the wedge is snugged in place. Took me a while to figure out why it was always shooting high.
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Exactly what I did with my brasser back then too Driftwood, 25 to 28 grains shot it loose.
 
25 grains imprinted the cylinder ratchet in the recoil shield on a .36 Remington and tweaked the frame enough so that removing the cylinder pin isn't as easy as it was.
 
Hah, I bought a used Walker replica in 68, so I'm the real expert. Hawgy and Drifty should be coming to me for advice. That year I also bought a M-70 beretta 32 acp and a SBH Ruger 44 mag. I still have the 44 flinch, the 32 split my thumb and have no memory what happened to the Walker. Just kidding about who the expert is and wondering who made a Walker replica in 68.
 
One thing adout Brass it has a natural lubricating surface. Triggers and hammers simply glide over it! You must light charge Brass frames to prevent stretching and add longivity. I have both types and enjoy each
Got what it is!
 
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