BP wads over or under ball?

My experience has been completely the opposite. I've tried to get a chain fire from the rear but never could do it. I can get one from the front tho.:D
 
LoL! Hawg!!! Like anything else in life if you try too hard it never fails that it won't happen. In a relaxed unexpected situation with a lube pill in it's proper place the rear will open up with multiple explostions and there you have it a chainfire from the rear. Purely accidental can't be reproduced...otherwise we'd have a cure...the bandaid is be careful and pay attention. And it can still happen.

Good One Hawg...HeeHee!

SG
 
Ch. Fr.

Hawg: "I can get one from the front tho."
I'm assuming that you were trying to do so. What did you do to cause the chain fire from the front? What were the conditions? I'm not going to try but I sure am interested.
Pete
 
I do not shoot a CB any longer, but I did extensively in the early 70's and we would always put powder in cylinder and Corn Meal over that then seat the ball. The corn meal would almost ensure no chain fire would occur. This would also keep the ball from being seated too deeply in the cylinder. We would place grease, all purpose auto, over the RB. Worked well and never had a CF.

Clint
 
Smokin' G turned me on to his "grease cookie" recipe and I've been using them either under the ball or smooshed on top. (I worry that the grease and oil migrates into the powder when the cylinder is warm.)

loading instructions for my Traditions C&B pistol, an 1851 Navy. It went thru the whole process and at the end said to place a wad over the ball.
I think the instruction to put the wad over the ball is a textual error that was never caught by a proof reader.

In any case, the accuracy with BP goes to hell after about three cylinders and I need to push a patch down the barrel and wipe the crap off the frame contact points. I regrease with the grease cookie lube.

(I had a CF, almost certainly caused by a missing cap. I always keep the ol' fingers well behind the mouth of the cylinder.)
 
Oquirrh, you can use the Lube Pill on top or below ball and atop powder(it won't effect the powder one bit)but the best results most cleansing, liubricating and most accuracy takes place only when you place the lube pill on the powder and the ball atop of it...I shoot anything I have, especially Remingtons, all day without cleaning or binding up...barrels clear a shiney any fouling is soft. I never used the on top but to test results...you just don't keep a BP Rev loaded with anything but Black Powder, Ball, and Cap for any length of time(wks, Mo., yrs.). You do need the flame to melt the Wax that holds the lube so the pill will work for ya.

SG
 
Only CF I have had was when I had a uncapped loaded chamber when firing.
The only time I use a lube over the ball is after firing two or more cylinders of rounds.
Then it's back to dry balls.
If you use a ball where it shaves a ring from the ball on loading you don't have to worry to much about CF from the front of the cylinder.


Willy
 
Went to the Cabelas in Dundee Michigan yesterday. Found a product called "Revolver Wonder Seal" by a company called "Ox Yoke Originals". Its a gooey fiber patch designed to go over the ball and seal the chambers. We'll see if it works!

Harry
 
I remeber them red fiber/hard wax wads that looked like the lube pill/grease cookies I make today.
If them gooey Ox yoke says to use um on top go ahead...but ox yoke always made the wooly wads plain or lubed to go under the balls.
Yur better off jus' mixin up some bees wax/or Bolwax and olive oil and makin a paste that don't melt and smearin' it over yur balls. Parafin will stiffin up the paste.

SG
 
Well, this may throw a few of you for a loop. I remember back in
62, my dad used to load powder, then place a strip of leather over
the cylinder, place the ball on top and press the ball with the ram and
that would punch a perfect hole right through the leather. He'd do that
with a model 1863 Starr SA .44 cap & ball, (original).
 
Well, this may throw a few of you for a loop. I remember back in
62, my dad used to load powder, then place a strip of leather over
the cylinder, place the ball on top and press the ball with the ram and
that would punch a perfect hole right through the leather. He'd do that
with a model 1863 Starr SA .44 cap & ball, (original).

Interesting. I assume it was a pretty thin piece of leather.
 
Most wads have moisture in them

If you put your wad on top of your powder and don't shoot it right away you will end up with wet mush that won't fire. I learned this when I loaded the night before shooting. They didn't fire and I had to dig everything out the next night.
 
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