Boyd's axis stock question

I finally had a bit of spare time to get back to the 270 win project and finish it off.
I decided to mill out the front pillar area up to the lug cut-out and make a nice solid block of plastic steel while also bedding the action. I also added a steel pillar for the rear action screw.

Since I started this project--I also bought a Boyd's keyhole stock to compare this one to--the over-all finishing--both inside and out in the Keystone stock is IMO significantly better to that of Boyd's. They both required some working to get a precise fit--but the Keystone seems to be the better machined of the two. That said--on the Keystone stock I bought--which is insetted for a savage axis--the inlet for the trigger appears to have been cut for a 110/111--the rear screw hole on an axis trigger guard overhung void. A little bit of milling of the back of the inlet to accommodate a 110/111 trigger guard and problem solved. The only other inlet issue with the Keystone stock that is a bit annoying is that the magazine inlet is cut low fairly deep into the stock--so getting the magazine in and out is a bit of work.

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Very few issues with a stock cannot be fixed with a good pillar bedding job using Acraglas gel.
Agreed--the savage axis magazine is a tricky one since it has snap tabs on both the front and back of the magazine--another issue is that a wood stock generally has to use an integrated pillar/magazine catch. I thought about increasing the height of the front catch/pillar--but that also means reducing the amount of the front screw that engages the receiver, which already is pretty shallow, so I decided not to go that route. I prefer devcon plastic steel.
 
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I'm just wondering where you found a "short action Axis"?
Well, in reference to the OP, here:

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I've got them both BTW. All bets are off once you stray from tupperwareland. ;)
 

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Got to try out the 270 win in the keystone stock after pillar and bedding job--I've noticed a definite improvement; now I have to improve my loads and technique to catch up to the improvement. I discovered a box 150 gr sst's from long ago--despite being an oldie sst's are still goodies.:) despite the blazing heat and thermal winds, I managed a decent group which I hope to improve on.

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This is a pretty powerful load for the 270 win--it's on the warm side and recoils pretty hard for a 270 in case you decide to try it.
 

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Nice , glad it's working out . Did you glue in the action or can you remove it . I'd like to see your bedding job to get an idea what I'm in for . Although my Savage MK11 is a completely different design so it may not help much .
 
Is it really worth pillar and bedding a $200 22LR? I don't know. I've avoided gluing my actions to the stock--so far. :D:D I guess if your getting a bigger after-market wood stock maybe it will work.
 
With the new stock it shoots about 2 moa larger groups . I either need to bed it or put it back in the original plastic stock . Example : My buddy and I play shooting games at 50 yards with our 22s . Things like battleship TicTacToe and the targets needed to be hit are about the size of a pencil eraser. I almost always win but this last time out with the new stock I didn’t win one game in fact it wasn’t even competitive .
 
With the new stock it shoots about 2 moa larger groups . I either need to bed it or put it back in the original plastic stock . Example : My buddy and I play shooting games at 50 yards with our 22s . Things like battleship TicTacToe and the targets needed to be hit are about the size of a pencil eraser. I almost always win but this last time out with the new stock I didn’t win one game in fact it wasn’t even competitive .
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If Jesus had a gun , he'd probably still be alive !

I almost always write my posts regardless of content in a jovial manor and intent . If that's not how you took it , please try again .
A good wood stock should almost always improve your accuracy over a plastic one--even without bedding or pillar--so my guess is some kind of asymmetry is causing a stress point to throw the eveness of the receiver mating to the stock. No, big deal, the aftermarket wood stocks I've bought required reworking to get a really good fit.

Here's the front pillar/bed. Since it's an axis--it pretty much has to use a combination pillar with magazine catch--typically they arrive loose or lightly press-fitted. I decided to mill out the area in front of the pillar to get a solid block of plastic steel behind the lug as well as bedding the pillar at the same time. Notice the imprint of the lettering from the receiver, I guess I'll have to file that down if I change the action.;)

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This is the rear pillar which is also "devconned" into the screw hole. There isn't much room there and the axis trigger block sits atop this--so there is no bedding in this area. I used the screw--adjustable pillar for this--which while being pretty wide and the forstner bit will break through on the upper part--overall it allows a generous amount of epoxy to be applied which holds it firmly in place. Have to be careful to allow adequate clearance for the sear/bolt release behind the pillar. The inlet for the bolt release needed a bit of widening, easy to do with a Dremel.

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Here's the inlet for the trigger guard and the bottom of the rear pillar. I install the pillars a thousandth or two longer than the surface of the inlet and then file it down. This particular stock for some unknown reason had the trigger inlet cut too long for an axis trigger guard and the shorter back screw was overhanging void, so I machined out a bit of the inlet in the back so a 110/111 trigger guard would fit. Hopefully that's not a problem for you.

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For all the dissing I did on the Keystone stock--it really is beautifully made and I think better finished than the Boyd's I bought. The gun's performance has markedly improved in my opinion; maybe to the tune of about .15 to .2 MOA or so. For the moment--the gun is shooting beyond my capability, so it may shoot even better than that.
 

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Thanks looks pretty good , check this out .

I bedded a Savage Accu-stock once .

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I used model clay as a dry run to see how it would spread out and get an estimate on how much material to use .

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It worked well but did not improve anything haha , so I popped it out . Oh well it was fun to do none the less .
 
What kind of stock did you buy for your 22? I have an accustock on my 338 lapua mag--it's the one and only synthetic stock I've had that I felt I didn't need to upgrade on.
 
I have an at-one and it's pretty good--though to be honest I haven't pillared or bedded it yet. I'll take a closer look once I get a couple of other "patients" done.
 
Just took a look--one thing I noticed was that Boyds cheeped out and used a plastic magazine catch for the front action hole--so that's probably not going to resist compression well over the long haul. I'm going to toss it as well as the cheap plastic trigger guard. You'd think for $250 that put quality components in.
 
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I had always known that I was going to buy the app one stock or a boyds stock in general so I had already picked up the metal trigger guard and magazine plate so I should be good to go there .

When I gave my house to my son I left my big safe there so I don’t have quick access to some of my firarms and the 22 is one of them or I’d have some pics for you . The rear area of the at one stock for the mark11 action is really just a Caverness hole , there’s nothing for anything to bottom out on . The tighter I tighten the screw the deeper the action just goes into the stock leaving the whole action and barrel slanted in the stock . I definitely have to do something and it’s going to be significant I think . I’m gonna have to do it in a two-step process. First put some thicker heavier duty apoxy in there then drill out the action screw hole . I will then have something to apply the softer JB Weld or the like to seat the action into .

The wood of the At-one stock is soft in my opinion and not a good quality for its application . It easily just spreads out as the action goes in deeper .
 
The inside of my at-one is a mess also, no finishing at all in the inlet cut-outs. I learned my lesson to simply never torque beyond 30 inchlbs in a wood stock without pillar support--it just makes matters worse. I think you'll be fine as long as you can get a couple of pillars in.
 
I'm gradually getting the hang of shooting the rifle with the stock--my biggest problem is keeping it from rolling a bit in the rear bag. I'm using a SWFA x12 fixed magnification scope.

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