Bought a spray painted H&K VP9SK for $325. How to fix it...
- Thread starter veprdude
- Start date
buck460XVR
New member
I agree. Makes as much sense as painting the gun red in the first place. As far as who would paint a gun red? While I never would paint a gun red, apparently the previous owner had a reason.....probably not a good reason, but a reason that made sense to him.
This is true, but paint thinner is just that....paint thinner. It can be used as a cleaner on dried paint. While it may work on freshly painted objects, may assist when using a mechanical method of stripping and may lift paint that was not properly applied, there's better stuff out there.
If the paint was latex based, there are many products made for that that will work well. Oil based and epoxys need harsher solvents. I might suggest fingernail polish remover, but like any of the other solvents...would test an inconspicuous area first.
FrankenMauser
New member
I start with acetone.
(If the frame can't handle acetone, it isn't a gun, it's a toy. Many gun solvents have generous amounts of acetone.)
If that won't touch it, I cautiously try MEK.
If they don't want to do anything, I turn to mechanical removal. (Abrasives, picks, and scrapers.)
(If the frame can't handle acetone, it isn't a gun, it's a toy. Many gun solvents have generous amounts of acetone.)
If that won't touch it, I cautiously try MEK.
If they don't want to do anything, I turn to mechanical removal. (Abrasives, picks, and scrapers.)
Brake Cleaner, inexpensive and effective. I recently used it to clean Bubba camo paint job a Browning BPS shotgun. A soft brass brush, a lot of paper towels and some old toothbrushes the job done. It did not harm the factory applied wood finish, however I would try it on the polymer just to be safe.
Most rattle can paint can be softened with plain alcohol. I first tried some 90% rubbing alcohol, but the brake cleaner worked faster.
Nice find too.
Most rattle can paint can be softened with plain alcohol. I first tried some 90% rubbing alcohol, but the brake cleaner worked faster.
Nice find too.
So far the removable parts that I've cleaned with gasoline show no signs of distress and scrubbing with a toothbrush seems to have worked well. I may try cleaning the rest of it with gasoline.
The reason I chose gasoline first is because there are a lot of plastic parts (think fuel pumps) submerged that do not deteriorate. Also it's cheap to soak larger items. Not sure what kind of plastic polymer guns are made of but I know ABS plastic does not like acetone.
And yes, I did the cleaning outside. I'll post the end results.
The reason I chose gasoline first is because there are a lot of plastic parts (think fuel pumps) submerged that do not deteriorate. Also it's cheap to soak larger items. Not sure what kind of plastic polymer guns are made of but I know ABS plastic does not like acetone.
And yes, I did the cleaning outside. I'll post the end results.
Under no circumstances should an rotary tool, Dremel brand included, be anywhere near a firearm.
I'd be inclined to just paint over the red. However, if you opt for a solvent, try it on the inside of the panel with the VP on it first. A bit of emery cloth will work too, but it will scratch the polymer.
I'd be inclined to just paint over the red. However, if you opt for a solvent, try it on the inside of the panel with the VP on it first. A bit of emery cloth will work too, but it will scratch the polymer.
As long as the paint isnt something permanent, like Aluma Hyde II, or something similar (Krylon "Fusion" might also be an issue with the polymers), Gun Scrubber, Hoppes, or a similar solvent, along with a toothbrush, or similar, thats on the stiffer side, should get most of it off pretty quickly. Dental type picks, patches, Q Tips, etc, are some other items that will make things easier.
It will likely take a little work, but from my experience, it will come off, and come off completely.
Your best results are going to be if you strip the frame and clean it, and the individual parts, separately. I think that will make things easier and will give you a better job.
It will likely take a little work, but from my experience, it will come off, and come off completely.
Your best results are going to be if you strip the frame and clean it, and the individual parts, separately. I think that will make things easier and will give you a better job.
I would use mineral spirits to try and remove the paint. It will not hurt plastic. I used to do home repairs and used several different solvents to clean up new construction.
What I found is that if the solvent has a warm feel on your fingers it is safe for plastics. But if the solvent feels cold it will melt the surface of the plastic. To see what I mean put a little acetone on your hand. It will feel cold. Mineral spirits has a warm or "not cold" feel to it. Good luck.
What I found is that if the solvent has a warm feel on your fingers it is safe for plastics. But if the solvent feels cold it will melt the surface of the plastic. To see what I mean put a little acetone on your hand. It will feel cold. Mineral spirits has a warm or "not cold" feel to it. Good luck.
So I finished removing the red paint tonight. Had good luck with gasoline on the removable parts and it was available and free. Afterwards I washed the parts with dish detergent. As expected the parts with surface wear appeared lighter and "dry" looking once the gas was stripped off. Most of this was from the pawn shop manager removing the red paint with some kind of abrasive. I think if I had removed all the red paint, there would not be the apparent surface wear.
Looks good!
And youre right, its a shame someone else tried something abrasive on it, or you likely wouldnt know it had been painted.
Paint is actually a good finish protector for hard use guns. Ive stripped guns I used for hunting and general work/truck use after 25 years of being painted, and the only spots that showed wear on the finish, and the wear was very minor too, was where the paint wore off from handling. Other than that, the bluing and wood looked new.
And youre right, its a shame someone else tried something abrasive on it, or you likely wouldnt know it had been painted.
Paint is actually a good finish protector for hard use guns. Ive stripped guns I used for hunting and general work/truck use after 25 years of being painted, and the only spots that showed wear on the finish, and the wear was very minor too, was where the paint wore off from handling. Other than that, the bluing and wood looked new.
Spats McGee
Administrator
Excellent job. It looks much, MUCH better!
Spats McGee
Administrator
veprdude, I'm impressed at how well that came out.