bobbing a hammer....lol

Thanks for all the info guys. Had no idea you could change the design. Imndoin some checkin into it before i decide. Ill let ya know. Tnx:D
ps...i cant see nothing innpics...just little blue boxes????
 
T. O'Heir said:
"...I'd like a hammerless..." That'd be a Ruger LCR. However, your pocket is a really bad place for a revolver with or without a hammer spur. Almost as bad as an ankle.
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What the heck are you talking about? :confused: Pocket carry of revolvers is a very popular carry method and ankle carry has its uses (mainly as a backup). With the right pocket, I feel pretty confident I can draw my LCR357 out of its Desantis Nemesis pocket holster as quickly as an IWB rig.
 
Save up a wee bit longer and get a Ruger LCR9?
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I'll be the third guy to suggest this. While I haven't tried it in 9mm yet, the LCR is just too good a platform. If you hunt around, you can find them in the $400-500 range. I don't know how much less expensive the Taurus or Charter Arms options are but whatever it is, it's nothing in the long run. Just take a moment to compare that tiny savings to what you'll get out of it over the lifetime of your gun. Think about all the time you'll spend on the range with this gun and all the time you'll trust it to protect your life.

Stop worrying about modifications. Get the right gun right out of the box. Never look back.
 
"The lighter hammer will actually be more reliable since it is moving faster."

I saw a guy use that theory once with a Model 10.

Unmitigated failure.
 
I bobbed the hammer on a Colt Agent and a Smith & Wesson 37. All I did was grind them down on my bench grinder. I never had any problems. I also had a 4" Modle 65 that I rounded the hammer and it was fine.
 
Mike Irwin said:
I saw a guy use that theory once with a Model 10.

Unmitigated failure
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It's true that all else equal, a lighter hammer runs faster and delivers a more power upon strike. And since it's power (essentially energy times velocity) that lights off primers, the result is increased reliability, and the ability to tune the action lighter before reliability does become an issue.

Also while a lighter hammer delivers more power, it does so with less momentum. Ordinarily, that's win/win, since momentum is what jars the muzzle upon hammer strike.

But momentum also is what overcomes internal friction, and therein lies the rub: A low-mass, low-momentum hammer, then, is more susceptible to internal friction, so if the innards aren't straight, true, plumb, centered and smooth, bobbing the hammer could reduce reliability.

Bottom line: If you're going to do a DAO conversion, it's best done in the context of a good and complete action job by a good revolver 'smith.
 
Bottom line: If you're going to do a DAO conversion, it's best done in the context of a good and complete action job by a good revolver 'smith.
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Winner winner chicken dinner.

As Paul Harvey would say, "And now you know the rest of the story."


All this guy did, based on "intardnut gunrus" was lop off the hammer spur and file it down.

He didn't understand it and called me to get my advice (day late, dollar short, dumbass...).

I ended up cleaning out all the old, dried lube (probably the biggest reason it didn't function), doing a full action job on it, polished the file marks that he left on the hammer so that it actually looked, you know, good, and put a Wolfe power rib main spring in it with a lighter rebound slide spring.

Gun functioned perfectly after that.
 
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