The "image stabilization" issue is a "software issue", unless you are trying to use the binos in a moving vehichle.
If you can learn to hold a rifle with a 10X telescope atop it steady in field positions, you can hold a pair of binocs steady in the same conditions: the principles are the same. Learn to do it, and practice regularly.
In fact, because the binocs are small and compact, and not held out away from the body in use, they are easier to steady than a rifle .....
Those who advocate buying expensive "Image Stabilizing" have bought into the belief that you can spend enough money to be successful in the field, skillset be damned .......
Give your wallet a rest and invest in yourself: take the time to learn how to DO somesthing. Any idiot, in this age of fiat currency, can amass and plunk down a pile of cash for a gadget that will, on a good day, substitute for a skill that he should have learned ..... it will be harder to learn the skill, and certainly take more time ..... and the skill won't have a flashy logo on it ..... but it'll work so long as you do, and does not require batteries, a warranty, or customer service of any kind! You don't even need a teacher/instructor/mentor: You have the internet, and there are doubtless may instructional videos to be found ..... hie thee hence!
As to the OP's original question: my recommendation?
There is so much good glass out there, compared to the cheap stuff ..... I use a pair of older Leupold Wind River 10x50's ..... they've seen more than a decade of hard use .... the porro prism style, being heavier, has kind of gone out of style ...... The price has gone down on good optics, as well ..... I think I paid over a couple hundred dollars for mine ..... there are now roof prism (lighter) designs that are probably everybit as good as mine, probably better, made by the same company ....
