I have had great luck with JB's Bore paste. It is a paste that comes in a small container available from Midway. The paste has a grittiness to it that is harder than lead and copper, but softer than steel (so it can't harm your gun). I use it on revolvers, rifle bores, as well as auto barrels. It works as well as anything I've seen (and doesn't take a lot of scrubbing). Shake
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Best way to remove buildup in 357mag cylinder?
- Thread starter Battler
- Start date
Walt Welch
New member
SharpCdn; and when you put everything back together, be aware that the screw used to remove the cylinder actually controls the amount of friction on the crane. You should adjust the screw so that the cylinder doesn't flop around, yet opens easily. Loc-Titing this screw is highly recommended. In a S&W .44 Mag, it is nearly imperative, unless you like looking for shot loose screws. Walt
We use this method in the shop. Seems to work wel on heavily leaded barrels also.
Get some bronze pot scrubbers from the grocery store. Cut strips so they will be able to be wrapped around a bronze brush of the same caliber a couple times.
Here's the key. Do not use any solvent. Work the brush wrapped with the pot scrubber in the barrel or cylinder. You will see the lead fall out.
Once this is done,now it is time to treat the metal with break free or flitz polish. This stuff seems to coat,or get into the metal to make it slick,meaning that material is lees likey to adhere to the bore,and what does,comes out easy. Kind of like a preventative measure. After a few treatments,you'll be suprised how easy it is to keep everything clean.
Hope this is of some help,have fun!
Get some bronze pot scrubbers from the grocery store. Cut strips so they will be able to be wrapped around a bronze brush of the same caliber a couple times.
Here's the key. Do not use any solvent. Work the brush wrapped with the pot scrubber in the barrel or cylinder. You will see the lead fall out.
Once this is done,now it is time to treat the metal with break free or flitz polish. This stuff seems to coat,or get into the metal to make it slick,meaning that material is lees likey to adhere to the bore,and what does,comes out easy. Kind of like a preventative measure. After a few treatments,you'll be suprised how easy it is to keep everything clean.
Hope this is of some help,have fun!
MusclesMcGee
Moderator
I've learned a lot from this post. There are all sorts of techniques and products I plan on trying out.
Here's a few more of my own.
After shooting, I let the whole cylinder soak in a solution of Hoppes #9 over night. The next day I clean as usual, and to get the lead rings off the front of the cylinder, I scrub it with an old bronze .45 brush. Usually this removes the buildup in a matter of seconds with no special products.
Tired of the metal tip of your brush making contact with the frame when cleaning the barrel ? Wedge the cap from a wide mouth Hoppes bottle in there. It fits perfectly in my 686 and I can brush as briskly as I like !
After I'm done cleaning, I wipe the entire piece down with breakfree so that its soaked. Then I wrap it up in a plastic bag and store it for about a week (I rotate my guns for home protection). After that time period, I wipe the gun down with some clean patches, voila ! Brand spankin' new ! You would be surprised at the crud you can pull of when you let that puppy soak for a week, and the great thing about breakfree, is you don't have to lube or oil it afterwards. This process makes clean up MUCH easier as you progressively shoot.
Use that same old .45 bronze brush in the cylinders, that also works well for me.
Here's a few more of my own.
After shooting, I let the whole cylinder soak in a solution of Hoppes #9 over night. The next day I clean as usual, and to get the lead rings off the front of the cylinder, I scrub it with an old bronze .45 brush. Usually this removes the buildup in a matter of seconds with no special products.
Tired of the metal tip of your brush making contact with the frame when cleaning the barrel ? Wedge the cap from a wide mouth Hoppes bottle in there. It fits perfectly in my 686 and I can brush as briskly as I like !
After I'm done cleaning, I wipe the entire piece down with breakfree so that its soaked. Then I wrap it up in a plastic bag and store it for about a week (I rotate my guns for home protection). After that time period, I wipe the gun down with some clean patches, voila ! Brand spankin' new ! You would be surprised at the crud you can pull of when you let that puppy soak for a week, and the great thing about breakfree, is you don't have to lube or oil it afterwards. This process makes clean up MUCH easier as you progressively shoot.
Use that same old .45 bronze brush in the cylinders, that also works well for me.