Gunplummer
New member
I rarely polish either, except on semi-autos. It would have to be pretty ugly to affect extraction on a bolt gun. I always thought it was more of a cosmetic thing to sell rifles.
Best way to polish chamber
- Thread starter disseminator
- Start date
I was not there. The barrel may have been short only .003 ,or three thousandths. That,IMO,would be uncommon.
What is far more common,no offense to the OP,is confusion about decimal points.
About .030,or thirty thousandths,would fit more with what I would expect in a short chambered barrel.
Remember to do the math and understand you are working with a shallow taper.Look at the "rise over run" idea.
If you had a case that was 2 in even,from bolt face to shoulder,and if your case taper was .040,or forty thousandths,thats .020 per inch on the dia,or .010per inch per side.
or .001 per .100 . So,if you could do a perfect job of recutting a chamber,you would need one tenth inch setback to clean a one thousandth flaw.(Your case taper will be different,this is for illustration)
Now,taking an impression,I used to use Co-Flex dental impression compound.A very "liquid" two part rubbery stuff that would flow into the finest detail.I could look at it under a microscope or on an optical comparator and see what I had,dimensionally.
You may not be able to do that,but here is something else.Silly Putty.You may be able to find it under "toys" try Amazon .
Silly putty will pick up the finest detail. Its temporary,the stuff is always flowing,but it can give you a look at what you have.
What is far more common,no offense to the OP,is confusion about decimal points.
About .030,or thirty thousandths,would fit more with what I would expect in a short chambered barrel.
Remember to do the math and understand you are working with a shallow taper.Look at the "rise over run" idea.
If you had a case that was 2 in even,from bolt face to shoulder,and if your case taper was .040,or forty thousandths,thats .020 per inch on the dia,or .010per inch per side.
or .001 per .100 . So,if you could do a perfect job of recutting a chamber,you would need one tenth inch setback to clean a one thousandth flaw.(Your case taper will be different,this is for illustration)
Now,taking an impression,I used to use Co-Flex dental impression compound.A very "liquid" two part rubbery stuff that would flow into the finest detail.I could look at it under a microscope or on an optical comparator and see what I had,dimensionally.
You may not be able to do that,but here is something else.Silly Putty.You may be able to find it under "toys" try Amazon .
Silly putty will pick up the finest detail. Its temporary,the stuff is always flowing,but it can give you a look at what you have.
If you want a special tool made for this purpose, Flex-hone has them for common chamberings; most in two silicone carbide grits: 400 and 800.
disseminator
New member
Thanks Unclenick,
I ordered one from Brownells with a quart of oil, we'll see how it goes.
I did pull the barrel to have a closer look at the chamber. All seems well, just needs a little polish. I think the hone will fix it up just right.
I'll post up the results when I'm done.
I ordered one from Brownells with a quart of oil, we'll see how it goes.
I did pull the barrel to have a closer look at the chamber. All seems well, just needs a little polish. I think the hone will fix it up just right.
I'll post up the results when I'm done.
disseminator
New member
So just to update: the flex-hone worked perfectly!
I went with the 800 grit and just took my time. After a while all the tool marks in the chamber disappeared and I went to the range and shot the rifle today and the rings are almost completely gone. I compared them to another rifle I have and it left more marks than this one so I might hone that one out now.
Thanks for all the help. Now to find someone to Blue it up real nice and get a stock...
I went with the 800 grit and just took my time. After a while all the tool marks in the chamber disappeared and I went to the range and shot the rifle today and the rings are almost completely gone. I compared them to another rifle I have and it left more marks than this one so I might hone that one out now.
Thanks for all the help. Now to find someone to Blue it up real nice and get a stock...
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ShootistPRS
New member
Time to give Savage a call on that one!
You have to give the manufacturer a chance to correct their QC by letting them know when they screw up.
You have to give the manufacturer a chance to correct their QC by letting them know when they screw up.
Glad the flex hone worked for you on the original problem. Flexhone points out (you can look up their YouTube videos) that these fine hones don't change the chamber diameter appreciably. Instead, if you were to look at a profile of the tool marks under magnification, you would see jagged mountain-like profiles, and the hone cuts off their peaks. The valleys remain to some extent. But you can actually reduce the ring appearance a bit further by getting some 800-1000 grit lapping compound and going in with it on a soft cloth and using your finger to polish all around the inside of the chamber. A bore mop on a drill would probably be fine, too. The more pliant material tends to round the edges of the cut off peaks a bit more than the hone does. Just be even all over and don't go heavy with it.
That Savage looks like a piece of sharf pushed the shoulder corner of the finishing reamer against the chamber in one direction during withdrawal from the cut chamber. Send them the photo and the barrel. I'm sure they'll fix it.
That Savage looks like a piece of sharf pushed the shoulder corner of the finishing reamer against the chamber in one direction during withdrawal from the cut chamber. Send them the photo and the barrel. I'm sure they'll fix it.
Called Savage- about useless. "Send it back and our technicians will diagnose the problem", probably read from a book. My head was steaming...explaining that I am a FFL/smith and KNOW what the problem is, made no difference. Could not talk to a tech.
I'm setting back the breech/re-cutting the chamber (6.5 Creedmoor) for the customer, he didn't want to wait however long to get it back from Savage. I'd had it here for a while for bedding/receiver truing and don't blame him for wanting it back. I didn't even know there was an issue until I test fired it after re-installing the factory barrel and could barely get the brass to extract.
That's what it looked like to me initially. But, seems the "threads" are running the opposite way from what you'd get from a CCW rotating barrel.
I can't come up with any other explanation though.
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