Best Sword for under $300?

Tom, it looks like the Gen 2 might be as good as, or a better value, even though more $, since the scabbard is lacquer-covered wood, not just fake leather like the Paul Chen, and the heat-treatment of the Gen 2 says it results in a 60 RC hardness at the edge, back to a 40 - that's a good hard edge! Like you say, probably it's more because of being hand-made, but these extra features come into play also - there may be others - I've definitely settled on my style - just need to pick one of these two- but the Gen 2 is $110 more. The Gen 2 also has a 1.25" shorter blade, which I like, for max maneuverability.

They both use simulated rayskin for the handle wrap, but the Gen 2 uses suede (real cowhide), and the Chen uses synthetic material - see any other significant differences?
 
60 Rockwell on the cutting edge? I'd be a little concerned that may be too high. Edge retention will be fantastic, but depending on how steep or shallow the angle comes into the edge it could be prone to brittleness. A standard metal file is only 2 marks higher (around 62 RC). But they are brittle as a result. The differential tempering will help in shock absorbing and flex, but I'd worry a little about the cutting edge being a little too hard and brittle--especially at the tip. Do you have any prior experience with sword use or cutting experience?
 
I think both scabards are wood with the laquer coating. It would be interesting to find the numbers on the Paul Chen as you have for the Gen2. The same numbers you have posted (60at cutting edge, 40 on the back for flex, ideal for this type of sword) are advertised for other paul chen swords, but I haven't found anything for the specific one you're looking at. Maybe you're onto something.

(it seems almost standard for the Paul Chen swords of this style to be 60/40. Some examples here.)
http://www.swordsdirect.com/paul_chen_professional.html


upon further looking I find
"Practical Ninja Sword, whose construction patterns closely that of the Practical Katana...." Makes me think it also has similar blade hardness.
I'm still going to say that you'll be happy with either. But it will be your sword so make sure you get what you want and don't settle for anything less!
Good Luck

Tom
 
Gen2 swords are great for the money, and most can take the stress of "steel on steel' contact.

Then there is the crown jewel of swords but out of your price range, Albion Swords.
 
Yeah, I saw those Albions - nice but egad!

Do you have any prior experience with sword use or cutting experience?
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No. He'p me here, please. Yes, that does seem awfully hard for something you're swinging at a target with full force & two hands - it could very well chip if the angle is shallow, as you say, couldn't it? Hmmm. I've got pocket knives not nearly that hard, and they're not made for such hard impact blows at all. Maybe such a hardness works because it IS in fact a steep angle, not a shallow angle, at the edge (looks like). In any event, I'm not gonna chop wood with it or anything real hard. It's mostly for fun, but also for self-defense in a pinch - and flesh/clothing ain't all that hard. :) I ain't gonna be "trainin' in the dojo" with it anyhow.

Oh, ok Tom, thanks. The Chen does have the nice wood scabbard; I was mistaken on that, hmmm. I think you're right; the practical ninja-to is gonna be same construction as the other "practicals" - but dunno for sure.

In addition to the katana-handle-yet-wakizashi-blade lengths of the ninjo-to swords, they also have a straight blade, not curved like the katana or wakizashi, if you didn't notice that.
 
swords are cumbersome due to weight and length, in tight quarters you may not be able to get enough "horsepower" behind your blows to do serious damage.

I would look into something even shorter like a tanto point combat knife or a bayonet or even a collapsible baton.
 
The first thing I would do is also buy an "el-cheap-o" 440SS as well. Use that to work on your initial cuts, etc. You'll likely destroy it, and that's the purpose--trash the one that doesn't matter. I've learned that the hard way while trying to instruct friends over the years--a nice chip in a very expensive blade from one terribly executed cut. Now they all learn technique on the mail-order junk, shinai, and bokan for a long time before cutting with an antique. Just a suggestion to prevent agony of a broken blade while on the learning curve.
 
I think I heard on the history channel once the curve comes from the metal cooling. Much more metal on the back than front, pulling it backward as the blade cools from being forged. Or it could have been the reason the first katana swords started to have a curve to them. But yes I've noticed and often wondered why that particular design doesn't behave the same way.
Your choice of a straight blade will help you in tight quarters. It is much better for thrusting than a curved blade.
 
Well, finally a thread that seems to be MADE for me!

Ok. I actually have quite a bit of experience in cutting and in sword practice. Maybe I can help...

I know alot of guys in the martial arts world who hold true to the notion that the only good swords are antiques, forged years ago using the most traditional of methods. To the Samurai, your sword is more than a weapon or training tool, it is the symbol of your pride in yourself and your family, your school, and your life.

Ok. That's all fine and good. But, for me, personally, my sword has to be both FUNCTIONAL as well as traditional. My sword means to me all of those things that it should mean to the Samurai. But, it's not just a symbol. It's also a piece of SPORTS EQUIPMENT. I accept the fact that my sword is going to get dinged up, scratched, and otherwise worn out through years of daily martial arts training. So, my sword has to be both INEXPENSIVE and REPLACEABLE, as well as functional and traditional.

For this reason, I LOATHE the practice of training with a priceless antique Samurai blade. I have watched people around me RUIN some really BEAUTIFUL blades by subjecting them to the everyday wear and tear of cutting practice. It's really sad to see, and it's sad to think that one day, if these folks continue, there won't BE anymore antique blades left for us to enjoy.

Alright. That's my rant. Now, for my money, I stick to the Paul Chen line. My current cutting blade is a 4th Generation Practical Katana. It has lasted me for over 5 years, and it's still razor sharp. They have discontinued production of the 4th Generation model, though. Now, they are making a model called the Practical Plus Katana. These are also great blades. I took one of my black belt tests on one a few years ago. The Practical Plus behaved beautifully.

The blades are forge-folded carbon steel, so they have to be oiled regularly. They will rust like CRAZY if you leave a fingerprint on one. Paul Chen also sells cleaning kits, and they make a great oil. (Look for the "Hanwei" brand name.) Several of the guys I've trained with have stories of being in their back yards, doing cutting practice, and accidentally cutting through posts for chain-link fencing. One guy accidentally cut through the gas meter on his street (noone was hurt).

The wakizashis are just as strong and well-made as the katanas. I don't know why in the world you would only want a waki-, but I'm sure you have your reasons.

I hope this helps. If you have any other questions, send me a message.
 
swords are cumbersome due to weight and length, in tight quarters you may not be able to get enough "horsepower" behind your blows to do serious damage.
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Well, exactly. That's why I want the shorter blade, yet a two-handed handle. In truth, I'd rather have an even shorter blade, say 16-18", but you cannot find these anywhere that I see, of high quality, with the longer handle. All of the "gladius"- or "naval dirk"- length blades have very short one-handed handles - nothing is exactly what I'm wanting, but the ninja-to with the 22-23" blade, comes the closest.

Samurai, thanks; that's good stuff - cut a pipe in half?! :eek:
 
Samurai>> I can add to your list of "Oops" stories... LOL I killed my microwave once...from the front yard. Warm evening, and I'd been wakeboarding all day--this makes for very poor grip strength. Add to the fact that my main cut-practice katana did not have a wrapped handle because I'd gotten tired of replacing the silk and sami from daily use--I built an alternate handle from hardwood and gave it a nice "simulated" wrap pattern in the egraving... Looked very good, functioned well for cut practice--but not so well for cuts from the draw when my grip is already shot. Result--nice cut on the mat, but stopping the extention was not so good with sweaty hands, a less than abrasive handle, and weakened grip strength. It meant a hole all the way through the exterior wall of my kitchen and 6" of the blade sticking through the back of the microwave. The blade was unhurt. The microwave, sadly, did not pull through. :D
 
Ha! First-degree microwave-slaughter!

I can do better than that! Ok. This is the same guy who cut through the gas meter. My fiance and I were training with this guy in his front yard. We were cutting Tameshigiri and practicing draws. My fiance was wearing some thick, platform flip-flops (they were in fashion a few summers ago). The guy is drawing his Paul Chen Golden Oriole katana (razor-freakin' sharp!). He does an oblique draw, makes a perfect cut through the tatami mat, and the blade slips out of his hands! He flings it behind him, where we are standing, and it comes skidding toward us along the ground. Before either of us knew it, she has about 18" of Golden Oriole sticking sideways through the sole of her flip-flop! One wrong bounce, and she would have taken it through her foot!

We were slightly displeased with him at the time.:p
 
Well, Firstfreedom, now you've heard some stories about the Paul Chen line. My question to you is, do you think those 440 stainless steel museum-replica mideval swords could do any of that???

The folded steel of the Paul Chen line is made for going to work cutting things. Plain and simple. ... and inexpensive.
 
No way; you've got me sold. That folded steel sounds tough! But the ideal CQB sword, seems to me, would be to take something like the Paul Chen ninja-to, and

-Add a pommel (I know, not traditional, but your story reveals their need - could save your life in a battle too)

-Shorten the blade, to somewhere between 16 and 19 inches; somewhere in there, maybe 20 or 21.

-Sharpen both edges, although I'm not so sure on this last one that the benefit would outweigh the detriment. Probably would though, so you could slice on the forehand and backhand without the necessity of making a change of blade position, to an attacking angle.
 
Don't sell-short the single-edged blade. If your blade has one dulled edge, it can be braced against your arm for a reinforced block or cut. Also, it helps to be able to place your hand against the dull edge to reinforce a cut. In my experience, you can only cut with one side of the blade at a time. And, while you do, the other side is pointed back at you!

If you're going to keep a blade around for self-defense purposes, my first recommendation is to get into a training program. It makes all the difference in the world.
 
To.jpg

Here's more the kind of "cheap'o" I was referring to if you're going with a To style sword---it's a bit better than a QVC at 3AM piece of junk... It's still a genuine clunker to anyone who knows quality, but it's lasted 10+ years as my general purpose camping tool/all-purpose machete. I think it was originally advertised as the "surviver-to", with 2 *laughable* shirken on the tsuba and a few other 'gadgets' I tossed immediately. All the special "secret ninja features" are great for a chuckle, but the blade is durable, and the handle is steel reinforced ABS (wrapped with nylon chord, but I epoxy-dipped mine so it would hold up better out in the sticks). I've chopped lots of firewood camping and it still has plenty of life in it. It will certainly hold up to getting beat up while you're learning basic cut technique on rolled cardboard. Just about any pawn shop in the US will have at least one kicking around for $45 or so. Not sanctifying buying less than quality here (a LOT less than quality---LOL), but it's for the same reason I'd tell someone not to learn how to ride on a new 25K Harley Davidson until they've spent time dumping, dropping, and abusing a used $500 Honda.
Getting some formal instruction would be a VERY good idea. However, that could be easier said than done, given the weapon in question. A To and a Katana are two very different weapons. And though they share some of the basic principles and some technique transfers across just fine, their individual styles are not the same. Adaptation will be needed later on your part most likely. Just something to keep in mind.
 
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