Best penetrating oil?
- Thread starter 603Country
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603Country
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rifletom, the Sako is an AV (I'm pretty sure) in 270. I bought it in the early 80's I think. Sold my Remington 700 in 270 to help with funds for the Sako. Shoulda asked for more money for the Remington, since two guys showed up to buy it and got in a fistfight on the front lawn over who got there first. I took that as a sure sign of selling too low. Oh, well...
The Model 700, in comparison to the Sako, was just a rather crude tool. Shot Ok, but wasn't something that you just like to look at.
The Sako is a Lightweight Hunter model. I had it tuned up and it shoots great. And it really does look great. Once I had decided what to buy, I actually shopped around to find the one with the best wood. One of the things I really like about it is that it seems to fit me perfectly. See the big buck, raise the rifle and your eye and cheek are instantly perfectly placed. No wiggling to find the right position.
Like I said earlier, I'll try the Torx head driver and hope that'll work. And I'll apply heat again. As soon as I get it off the gun, off it goes to Leupold anyway, so if a little heat damages it, it isn't the end of the world. I can't tell you how many deer I've shot with that rifle, because the number has to be near 200. Truth be told, it really doesn't need the new scope on it, but I like the Varmint Hunter reticle.
And someone mentioned that the rings might be aluminum. Nope. Solid steel.
The Model 700, in comparison to the Sako, was just a rather crude tool. Shot Ok, but wasn't something that you just like to look at.
The Sako is a Lightweight Hunter model. I had it tuned up and it shoots great. And it really does look great. Once I had decided what to buy, I actually shopped around to find the one with the best wood. One of the things I really like about it is that it seems to fit me perfectly. See the big buck, raise the rifle and your eye and cheek are instantly perfectly placed. No wiggling to find the right position.
Like I said earlier, I'll try the Torx head driver and hope that'll work. And I'll apply heat again. As soon as I get it off the gun, off it goes to Leupold anyway, so if a little heat damages it, it isn't the end of the world. I can't tell you how many deer I've shot with that rifle, because the number has to be near 200. Truth be told, it really doesn't need the new scope on it, but I like the Varmint Hunter reticle.
And someone mentioned that the rings might be aluminum. Nope. Solid steel.
603Country
New member
Whew! It's done. I went out and tried the torx drivers and that didn't work (stripped the head out further). So I dug around in my damaged screw removal stuff and found a Speed Out box with 4 different sized bits for removing damaged screws. Hmmm. Gave it a try. Worked like a champ. I figured I'd need that Speed Out kit someday, but always wondered if it would really work. Yessiree. Works fine. Got the new scope on there now and will go shoot it a bit to sight in.
Years ago I had the opportunity to purchase a few lathe chucks cheap. An iron and metal scrap yard bid jobs for pennies on the pound, they filled 55 gal. barrels from tool rooms and hauled to the yard, there the metal was unloaded in the yard until someone came and bid on it. I was lucky to find some of the items before the barrel filled with water, some of the tools were odd and or unseal micrometers. I was told one of the barrels was half full of chucks, they dumped the barrel to make it easy to sort. I picked three, one was a Warner Schawsey.
Thinking "How difficult can it be" The three reversible jaws as a set would be worth more than I paid for the chuck. The jaws were secured with 2 bolts each. I broke the bolts loose with 175+ foot pounds , the bolts were dry after soaking in everything I had available, separating the chuck was no easier. Then came the scroll, and more soaking, I called for back up. It was suggested the chuck could have been dropped and is no longer round. I am going to drill through the chuck face and make an effort to drive the scroll out the back.
I could not believe the chuck appeared to have never been lubed. Outside the rust only appears to be superficial with no rust on the chuck itself. My outside back up said the chuck was built with tight tolerances, and heavy.
It is still soaking and has been soaking for 2 weeks. My back up suggested pounding on it, the question was "WITH WHAT?", 'lead' lead hammers lead blocks etc.. I did that, nothing moves.
F. Guffey
Thinking "How difficult can it be" The three reversible jaws as a set would be worth more than I paid for the chuck. The jaws were secured with 2 bolts each. I broke the bolts loose with 175+ foot pounds , the bolts were dry after soaking in everything I had available, separating the chuck was no easier. Then came the scroll, and more soaking, I called for back up. It was suggested the chuck could have been dropped and is no longer round. I am going to drill through the chuck face and make an effort to drive the scroll out the back.
I could not believe the chuck appeared to have never been lubed. Outside the rust only appears to be superficial with no rust on the chuck itself. My outside back up said the chuck was built with tight tolerances, and heavy.
It is still soaking and has been soaking for 2 weeks. My back up suggested pounding on it, the question was "WITH WHAT?", 'lead' lead hammers lead blocks etc.. I did that, nothing moves.
F. Guffey