Best glue for a large wooden chip back into the stock?

I have not had one of these apart, but on many guns, a chip out at the tang is a sign of poor bedding. I think I would do an epoxy repair and take the opportunity to glass bed the stock.
 
BROWNELLS - ACRAGLA , the liquid kind. Make a few small drill holes on both sides for bonding. Apply. Wrap with rubber or clamp. Depends on where/how exactly the chip is located.
 
A vote for a quality wood glue. I've made furniture repairs with wood glue where the piece failed again, but it broke in a different location. Wood glue, properly applied, is at least as strong as the wood it bonds to.

Plus wood glue doesn't expand like gorilla glue and can be wiped off the seem after being clamped with no residue left (as long as you don't wait forever).
 
Sounds like a stubborn repair I made recently, I used 2 part 30 minute epoxy, slightly thinned with 99.9 Isopropyl alcohol to a conistency of warmed honey. The reason I used epoxy was due to the chip/crack was receiving recoil and re-opening on the same place with wood glue.

If you do use epoxy; Do not use 5 minute epoxy on wood. The quick set epoxies will harden too fast to be absorbed by the wood grain and leave you with a inferior joint. for harder woods, thin the epoxy slightly for better absorption.

clamping/wraping the repair until dry is also important.
 
Titebond Type III wood glue. Type II would probably also work. Type 1 has no moisture protection and I would want some for a stock.

If you don't have clamps you may be able to get away with tightly wrapping with masking tape. Clamping is better.

Titebond CA Glue would also work pretty well. Thin or medium. Be aware the thin has a ridiculously short working time. Like 3 seconds.
 
Way back when, I read an article in Consumer Report about wood glues. Strangely, the 2 best were epoxy and Elmer's wood glue. With neither being measurable better than the other.
 
I would recommend bedding when you reinstall the buttstock. Spread out the recoil forces.
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OP has already probably repaired it, but I missed the part where he mentioned it was from the tang area...

Action is moving rearward under recoil. When it's glued back in, if it's not bedded, it needs to be relieved in the area being replaced- or it'll just happen again when the action slams back into it. Glue, epoxy, doesn't matter- it'll break loose again.
 
Workrite Wood Welder or one of the various other manufacturers models that are made today with appropriate glue makes a bond way stronger than the wood using radio waves. In less than a minute it is done and ready for sanding and finishing. It is an industrial machine with a large price tag but I used one every day for over 10 years so I can say they work well. Unlike the ultrasonic cleaners that originally started out also as big industrial products which now are made as hobby size and priced models which some gun owners now own and use, there is no equivalent wood welder from any manufacturer. Too bad no one has come up with an affordable hobby version of it
 
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