Best glue for a large wooden chip back into the stock?

I

Ignition Override

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There is no ready explanation for how this 1" x 2" long wedge came off the Mak 90's stock by the tang yesterday.
Never dropped, hit, scraped etc. Bizarre. Found the chunk today, on the ground at the club, between the front and back benches.:)

Anyway, this very light brown stock might be walnut. Not at all yellow or orange like the SKS choa wood, and this wood is harder.

The piece fits back in the stock perfectly and you can't see any real crack.

What is the best glue, as I never glue wood together?:confused:
 
Check your screws. Make sure everything is tightened properly.
A chip at the tang (of nearly any long gun) typically indicates loose screws and/or a poor fit.



'Original' Gorilla Glue may push the chip back out or make the split lines apparent. It's also a pain to clean up.
I wouldn't use it.


Standard wood glue should be fine. Gorilla, Titebond, Elmer's, whatever...


I would probably use a clear two-part epoxy, and be sure to get everything cleaned up before letting it set.
 
Put the chip back in, and put a tiny drop of SuperThin superglue at one edge.
It will wick itself completely through the entire surface of the failure underneath.
 
Super glue doesn't work well on wood without special preparation. Gorilla Glue swells.

Elmer's Glue or epoxy is what you need.
 
Just a reminder:
Water-based glues will make the wood swell and your currently 'perfect' fit may be far from perfect if you let the glue sit too long before reuniting the chip and the stock.

Prepare.
Apply.
Assemble.
Adjust and clean up.
 
I use basic white Elmer's Glue for these repairs. Clamping with a piece of surgical tubing. But I almost always end up refinishing the stock to hide the repair. Depending on where the chip is, I may or may not pin it in.

Jeff

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IF you can clamp, I'd use regular aliphatic wood glue as recommended...

If you cannot, I'd use epoxy (yes- I have/use/prefer West System). Epoxy doesn't require clamping and can fill gaps. Wood glue requires clamping for optimal results.
 
Super glue soaks into most wood before it can harden. Slick, closed-grain woods might be fine, but woods like walnut absorb the glue. It works great if you use accelerators.

I got the idea from using super glue on thousands of different items over the past 40 years or so.
 
SuperThin works absolutely superbly on balsa.... which about as porous as you can get.
(Ain't bad on spruce either.) ;)
Sets up in after wicking into the crack in seconds.
No soak-in time even possible.
 
I would use any good wood glue.

Super glue might work, but I have never tried it on wood so I wouldn't know.

The most important thing is to clamp it properly.

Gorilla glue is strong, and I use it on some stuff, but with the way it expands I don't use it on anything I want to look good when I'm done.
 
I'm a woodworker and I use a lot of glue. Elmers will work fine, though I have better options such as Titebond II and III. As someone mentioned, it is necessary to clamp the chip while the glue sets. Harbor Freight sells Jorgenson style wooden clamps, and the biggest one should work just fine. Put wax paper between the chip and the clamp, so the clamp doesn't get firmly glued to the stock if there's glue squeeze out. For several reasons, you want to limit or avoid squeezout, so don't use more glue than needed.
 
A Mak 90 doesn't have a walnut stock. Probably the same cheap wood AIA rifle stocks were made of.
Epoxy dries clear. I think regular wood glue does too. Been a while since I've used any. Either requires clamping.
 
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