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Best cold bluing solution
- Thread starter Archarris
- Start date
Jim Watson
New member
Do tell.
Where can I learn about Flex Bar Tool Black?
Neither Google nor Bing want to play.
Where can I learn about Flex Bar Tool Black?
Neither Google nor Bing want to play.
oldgunsmith
New member
For a home job without a lot of expensive equipment the rust blue aka Belgian Blue is the best way to go. Follow the instructions closely and do it on a couple or more pieces of scrap metal till you get the hang of it. I'll bet you'll know when you're ready to do your first gun.
Brownells Oxpho-Blue for light touchups...I did a 'reblue' on an old TT33 by glassbeading the metal then using a propane torch to heat the metal to a 'blue' then cooling in motor oil (I read about this and wanted to try it)...I rather like the matte finish the glassbeading and blueing produced...
As others have said, RUST BLUE ! Rust blueing is the best blue one can get, better than hot caustic blueing. It can also be done at home with a minimum of expense and equipment. I use Laurel Mountain Forge barrel brown and degreaser. There is no reason to use inferior cold blue when rust bluing is so superior and easy to do.
oldgunsmith
New member
roklok is making all kinds of sense. Once you get the hang of it you'll likely never want anything else.
I use Casey's bluing paste. I have gotten some really great results with it. This thread contains pictures of an STI LS40 where I touched up holster wear on the frame and slide - http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=508067
Note, this is a flat finish. The paste works good on polished finishes to, but it won't hide imperfections - just makes it black and shiny. Although I haven't experienced any problems, some folks will tell you that even if you get good results, any cold blue will rub off faster than hot bluing.
Note, this is a flat finish. The paste works good on polished finishes to, but it won't hide imperfections - just makes it black and shiny. Although I haven't experienced any problems, some folks will tell you that even if you get good results, any cold blue will rub off faster than hot bluing.
Last edited:
I used to be on a kick that Dicropan was darker, but Oxpho blue lasted
longer, so I would put Dicropan on first and get it down in the micro
valleys, and then run Oxpho on the micro ridges.
That trick makes dark and long lasting cold blue, but it only works on
steels that take both cold blues well.
If you can find this stuff, get some, and you will broaden what you can
do besides Oxpho and Dicropan.
http://www.g96.com/miva/graphics/00000001/gunbluecreme-small.gif
You will need:
1) Towels
2) Paper towels
3) Kleenex
4) Hot running water
5) 3 dedicated tooth brushes
6) Motor oil
7) Oxpho blue: liquid works better, cream is easier to use
8) Some other darker cold blue
9) Liquid detergent, like SIMPLE GREEN
G96 gun blue cream.
Get the part hot and soapy, and scrub it with a tooth brush.
Rinse and dry without getting finger prints on it or letting it cool down.
Scrub on the dark cold blue with a tooth brush for a minute.
Get the part hot and soapy, and scrub it with a tooth brush.
Rinse and dry without getting finger prints on it or letting it cool down.
Scrub on the Oxpho cold blue with a tooth brush for a minute.
Apply oil lightly without rubbing off the Oxpho blue.
Leave overnight.
Get the part hot and soapy, and scrub it with a tooth brush.
Rinse and dry.
Rub oil on it.
Wipe off excess oil.
Repeat until dark and durable enough.
For whole barrels, spin them in the lathe to rub in the Oxpho.
With barrels, put a rubber stopper in the muzzle and breech to keep
liquids out.
Hair dryer or heat gun can warm parts.
longer, so I would put Dicropan on first and get it down in the micro
valleys, and then run Oxpho on the micro ridges.
That trick makes dark and long lasting cold blue, but it only works on
steels that take both cold blues well.
If you can find this stuff, get some, and you will broaden what you can
do besides Oxpho and Dicropan.
http://www.g96.com/miva/graphics/00000001/gunbluecreme-small.gif
You will need:
1) Towels
2) Paper towels
3) Kleenex
4) Hot running water
5) 3 dedicated tooth brushes
6) Motor oil
7) Oxpho blue: liquid works better, cream is easier to use
8) Some other darker cold blue
9) Liquid detergent, like SIMPLE GREEN
G96 gun blue cream.
Get the part hot and soapy, and scrub it with a tooth brush.
Rinse and dry without getting finger prints on it or letting it cool down.
Scrub on the dark cold blue with a tooth brush for a minute.
Get the part hot and soapy, and scrub it with a tooth brush.
Rinse and dry without getting finger prints on it or letting it cool down.
Scrub on the Oxpho cold blue with a tooth brush for a minute.
Apply oil lightly without rubbing off the Oxpho blue.
Leave overnight.
Get the part hot and soapy, and scrub it with a tooth brush.
Rinse and dry.
Rub oil on it.
Wipe off excess oil.
Repeat until dark and durable enough.
For whole barrels, spin them in the lathe to rub in the Oxpho.
With barrels, put a rubber stopper in the muzzle and breech to keep
liquids out.
Hair dryer or heat gun can warm parts.