Barrel Conditioner for Muzzleloaders
- Thread starter DennisCA
- Start date
FrontierGander
New member
Who shoots pellets anymore? Those of us that shoot inlines these days use Blackhorn209. Shoot the entire can without ever having to clean/swab the bore.
As for excessive force to load an inline, You should try my Hawken with a .575" patched ball in order to get an idea what excessive force is!
Some modern day traditional barrels still use soft steel. Modern inline barrels normally are cut from the same barrel stock that company uses for their modern centerfire barrels. CVA for example does this. I've put a handful of thousands of rounds through a couple of those guns a couple years ago, barrels still look like new.
As for hard reloading on an inline, the same can be said for a traditional rifle. A modern inline gets whats called a Crud ring when using powders like T7, its the HOT primer that causes this hard crusty build up, not plastic from a sabot like some try to pawn it off as. Using a "cooler" primer like a 410 shotgun uses, normally sold as Winchester 777 or CCI Inline MZL primers, this crud ring is greatly reduced to the point where the shooter, depending on his load set up, can reload up to 5 -6 shots before swabbing the bore free of fouling is needed.
Now getting to the traditional guns, my personal rifles develop a reverse crud ring, this one is the first 4" of the muzzle rather than at the breech end of my inlines. #11 cap for some reason just gives me pure heck at the muzzle with all powders I shoot.
Best thing I ever did to my 58 Hawken was use Dynatek Bore Coat in the bore. The clean up with goex is simply amazing, 2-3 swabbing patches on the range and its CLEAN. The powder residue on the patch once dry is a light gray color, not nasty black. Powder fouling inside the bore was greatly reduced which allows me to shoot my regular hunting patches lube with TOW mink oil and not have to look for a hammer to get the ball down the tube.
As for excessive force to load an inline, You should try my Hawken with a .575" patched ball in order to get an idea what excessive force is!
Some modern day traditional barrels still use soft steel. Modern inline barrels normally are cut from the same barrel stock that company uses for their modern centerfire barrels. CVA for example does this. I've put a handful of thousands of rounds through a couple of those guns a couple years ago, barrels still look like new.
As for hard reloading on an inline, the same can be said for a traditional rifle. A modern inline gets whats called a Crud ring when using powders like T7, its the HOT primer that causes this hard crusty build up, not plastic from a sabot like some try to pawn it off as. Using a "cooler" primer like a 410 shotgun uses, normally sold as Winchester 777 or CCI Inline MZL primers, this crud ring is greatly reduced to the point where the shooter, depending on his load set up, can reload up to 5 -6 shots before swabbing the bore free of fouling is needed.
Now getting to the traditional guns, my personal rifles develop a reverse crud ring, this one is the first 4" of the muzzle rather than at the breech end of my inlines. #11 cap for some reason just gives me pure heck at the muzzle with all powders I shoot.
Best thing I ever did to my 58 Hawken was use Dynatek Bore Coat in the bore. The clean up with goex is simply amazing, 2-3 swabbing patches on the range and its CLEAN. The powder residue on the patch once dry is a light gray color, not nasty black. Powder fouling inside the bore was greatly reduced which allows me to shoot my regular hunting patches lube with TOW mink oil and not have to look for a hammer to get the ball down the tube.
Anone else have experience with the DYNATEK BORE COAT mentioned above?
Sure Shot Mc Gee
New member
As the site read I didn't see where it was recommended for traditional barrels. Only closed breech barrels using 209 primers and pellet powders for the purpose of eliminating a barrels crud ring and plastic fouling. I suppose if one wanted to use the coat on a traditional barrel they would perhaps need to remove their barrels breech plug. But doing so could lead to more problems than the coatings benefit. Just how a fellow member went about applying a barrel coat on a traditional 58 Hawken interest me?
FrontierGander
New member
Simple, you just go through the muzzle. Doug over at Dynatek taught me how to do the barrels almost 4 years ago. What I do, I apply the 3 strokes, wait 20 minutes and then do the next 3 full strokes after rewetting the patch.
I have a CVA mountain rifle coming in early next week so I can do a video of the process if that helps.
I have a CVA mountain rifle coming in early next week so I can do a video of the process if that helps.
FrontierGander
New member
You'd probably have to lap it out. A bronze bore brush will damage it so the use of a nylon brush is a must if you are shooting lead conicals or sabots.
FrontierGander
New member
Guess which one was fired without DBC?
Another with Goex,
Its not a coating thats easy to see, once its applied, fire cured and then cleaned, your barrel just pretty much looks polished,
Another with Goex,
Its not a coating thats easy to see, once its applied, fire cured and then cleaned, your barrel just pretty much looks polished,
Strafer Gott
New member
Crisco works about as good a patch lube as anything, and Ballistol and water clean it all up nice and tidy. This isn't rocket science, brethern. Keep petroleum oils out! The 4x medical oil in Ballistol leaves a nice thin film that air dries nicely on a warm barrel.
FrontierGander
New member
Keeping Petro oils out is a myth. ALL oils/lubes need to be removed before loading. In my other rifles that are not coated, Barricade gets the job done.
Sure Shot Mc Gee
New member
Interesting pictures.
I don't really believe in petro oil problems being a myth. I bought a .62 smoothbore from Caywood one time, and was having problems with ignition and fouling. I called them about the problem and the first thing they asked me was what I was lubing the barrel with and I told them CLP. They said that was my problem as I was petroleum based. They said they boil out their barrels to remove any trace of oils left from the mfg. process and I had put some right back in.
I spent considerable effort to get any oil back out of the barrel, and problem solved. I haven't used any petroleum based stuff in my black powder barrels in many years now, and I have no problems.
I go to a match and there always seems to be someone fighting to load a rifle, and usually the same people every match. They will all tell you their "magic" things they do to their guns....and never get the point. I can shoot any of my rifles 30-40 shots without running a patch to swab the bores. Muzzleloaders can be a hardheaded bunch......but I guess it's sort of entertaining watching the same guys with their ramrods stuck in their fouled bores every month.
I spent considerable effort to get any oil back out of the barrel, and problem solved. I haven't used any petroleum based stuff in my black powder barrels in many years now, and I have no problems.
I go to a match and there always seems to be someone fighting to load a rifle, and usually the same people every match. They will all tell you their "magic" things they do to their guns....and never get the point. I can shoot any of my rifles 30-40 shots without running a patch to swab the bores. Muzzleloaders can be a hardheaded bunch......but I guess it's sort of entertaining watching the same guys with their ramrods stuck in their fouled bores every month.
FrontierGander
New member
petro oil wasnt the problem, the fact that it was stored in a way for the oil to drain into the bolster and then not properly being removed, that was the problem.