Are Gen 2 glocks as good as the other generation glocks?

If I recall, gen 2's don't have accessory rails or finger grooves, but I've heard they all went "bang". :D

If it doesn't go bang then send it to Glock and they will put new stuff in it to make it do so.

I have what some call a gen 2.5 G27. It has finger grooves, but doesn't have extra texturing like the gen 3's and 4's. It was well used from the looks of it when I bought it and was made in late 90's I think. Other than cleaning, I've done nothing but shoot it.
 
Thanks Fly,

You are correct the Gen 2's don't have finger grooves. The reason I asked the question is because I was told by a police department Armorer that some parts need to be changed out before I shot it.
 
Some people claim the Gen 2s are superior because they were made pre-MIM parts and lack finger groves. Since most people don't put a light on a carry gun anyway, I don't see that as a huge drawback. I don't know what parts the armorer recommends replacing, but usually a recoil spring and maybe a trigger spring will get you going for another several thousand rounds. If you like the feel of the Gen 2, there's nothing to be afraid of.
 
My gen2 G21 always goes bang. It may be old and considered outdated compared to the more current versions, but I still rely on it to protect me at all times, and it has never let me down.
 
I've heard great things about Gen 2 glocks. Lots of people even prefer them. If you like the way it feels in your hand, go for it. They are fine guns.
 
Evil Monkey,

I heard that about the unsupported chambers so I compared the Gen 2 barrel to my Gen 3 barrel both are the midel 22 40 both barrels are exactly the same as far as the chamber goes.
 
The real difference between Gen 1's and Gen 2's and later series Glocks is that the first two generations were "2-pin" Glocks. Sometime during the 2nd Gen or at least 3rd gen on, all Glocks are 3-pin. On 2-pin Glocks, the Locking Block is not pinned in place. The third pin pins the locking block in place.

When all Glocks were 9mm's there was no need to pin the locking block in place. Glock later discovered that with higher pressure rounds, like the .40, the locking blocks would come loose. So, they started pinning them.

The bottom line is that I would steer clear of a 2-pin Glock in the higher pressure calibers like.40S&W.
 
another difference is that my Gen 2 G17 has a recoil spring which is not captive. If you are acquainted only with very modern guns, this can take you by surprise and launch the spring across the room. My Gen 3 G19 has a fully captive spring, meaning the spring and the guide rod are a "unit"

My 1991 G17 has been the most reliable, durable pistol I have ever owned. The trigger has improved with age.

Jim
 
My G19 gen2 has been great, I have put over 8000 rounds through it and it was used when I bought it. I would be a little curious as to why the armor told you to swap out parts but not tell you what it needed:confused:
 
Since the issue of springs was mentioned. Does anyone know if the older two part spring is interchangeable with the newer captive one piece spring on the same models. Any issues swapping them out?
 
My Gen 2 G22 does have a chamber with less support than my Gen 3 G27 but so far no kabooms after thousands of rounds before even hearing of the issue.

It is a 3-pin model and I believe ALL 40S&W Glocks you are likely to encounter have the 3-pin upgrade. Some 9mms have the older 2-pin design but that was corrected by Gen3 as Skans said.
 
Two neighboring PDs still have Gen 2 G22s in service. Two new guys shot 1400 rds of duty ammo through their guns recently, no issues. About $30 for spring replacement kit from various vendors.
 
Since the issue of springs was mentioned. Does anyone know if the older two part spring is interchangeable with the newer captive one piece spring on the same models. Any issues swapping them out?
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My gen 2 G17 (bought used) came with a factory captive recoil spring/rod and it runs like a top. I have since replaced it with a Lightning Strike steel captive and it's 100%. All of my spares are factory captive.

For the record, having owner first, second, and third gen Glocks, for a 9mm I far prefer the 2nd gen. I have no need for a rail and the finger grooves aren't my favorite. As has been said, for higher pressure rounds go with the newer three pinned models.
 
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Did they start pinning them in mid gen 2?
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That's my understanding. I believe that the first run of 40's started to experience problems with the block coming loose and thats when they went to 3-pin. Someone else may have more precise information than I do on this.

My 2-pin Glock 17 has functioned flawlessly for over 20 years. Countless thousands of rounds shot through it, stored in a damp, wet basement for 6 months, and spent many long hours locked inside a hot car over the years. Its till looks almost new and functions perfectly. However, the night sights have finally faded to "barely perceptible" in complete darkness.
 
I had a Gen 3 Glock 19, very early Gen 3, that was a two pin. I don't have it anymore.

If a light isn't a concern I actually prefer the lack of finger grooves on the Gen 2.
 
"Since the issue of springs was mentioned. Does anyone know if the older two part spring is interchangeable with the newer captive one piece spring on the same models. Any issues swapping them out?"

I replaced the non captive spring/rod with newer captive setups on 3 Gen 2 Glocks. No issues at all with factory parts.
 
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