Are 1911 ramped barrels really an improvement?
- Thread starter mikikanazawa
- Start date
Harry Bonar
New member
re- barrels
Dear Shooters:
Boy! I didn't realize what a flurry of opinions I'd stirred up .
To ease things over let me give you my milling dimensions for ramped (Para cut) frames.
Set up frame in a good solid vise and touch down on top rail (I use a .001 feeler guage) to check for contact with top frame rail and center your 3/8 mill in frame channel (try to select a 3/8 mill that has been sharpened - you want the radius to be as that on the barrel and also to be as close to bbl thickness as possible but still clearing)) - mill down .315 to clear the first step on your bbl. (back out mill and put bbl. in and slide it back to make sure this just clears the bottom of bbl. ramp.)
I then install a slave slide stop pin in the hole and coat milled portion with lay-out dye. I set my dial calipers at .580 and scribe the general location to mill down for the Para ramp from rear of slave pin. I put cutter just in front of this line and mill down to.578 deep (This is, of course measured ,again, from the top surface of slide rail, not from the .315 cut; the top surface of our slide rail is the starting point for all of our depth cuts) and continue cut forward (after removing slave pin).Then I'll take a good accurate measure from the pin (replace it) and mill as needed until rear of Para cut is .580 from rear of slave pin (These are Para dimensions.)
Then, I.ll change to a .190 mill (with a 3/8 shank) and touch down in original link cut and come back far enough to let link swing freely.
Take it up to the bead blast cabinet and bead it - looks like factory job
Hope I've been clear enough and haven't left anything out!
Harry B.
Dear Shooters:
Boy! I didn't realize what a flurry of opinions I'd stirred up .
To ease things over let me give you my milling dimensions for ramped (Para cut) frames.
Set up frame in a good solid vise and touch down on top rail (I use a .001 feeler guage) to check for contact with top frame rail and center your 3/8 mill in frame channel (try to select a 3/8 mill that has been sharpened - you want the radius to be as that on the barrel and also to be as close to bbl thickness as possible but still clearing)) - mill down .315 to clear the first step on your bbl. (back out mill and put bbl. in and slide it back to make sure this just clears the bottom of bbl. ramp.)
I then install a slave slide stop pin in the hole and coat milled portion with lay-out dye. I set my dial calipers at .580 and scribe the general location to mill down for the Para ramp from rear of slave pin. I put cutter just in front of this line and mill down to.578 deep (This is, of course measured ,again, from the top surface of slide rail, not from the .315 cut; the top surface of our slide rail is the starting point for all of our depth cuts) and continue cut forward (after removing slave pin).Then I'll take a good accurate measure from the pin (replace it) and mill as needed until rear of Para cut is .580 from rear of slave pin (These are Para dimensions.)
Then, I.ll change to a .190 mill (with a 3/8 shank) and touch down in original link cut and come back far enough to let link swing freely.
Take it up to the bead blast cabinet and bead it - looks like factory job
Hope I've been clear enough and haven't left anything out!
Harry B.
Last edited:
Dave Sample
Moderator
Great information, Harry. You are the Man!
Harry Bonar
New member
mikikanazawa
New member
Thanks for the milling info, even if I (now) don't plan on installing a ramped barrel on my current project 1911. I envisioned the cut in the frame to be a lot deeper than .315" for some reason. Your description is a good reality check.