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AR Chewing Up Buffer!
- Thread starter SwampYankee
- Start date
OK,you have a lot going on here.As you are swapping BCG's,does this mean you are swapping bolts?
Next question,have you checked the headspace on every bolt you are using?
I understand there is a temptation to say "Its supposed to be right with good parts" Thing is,sometimes it is not right.If its not right,its not safe.
If you are going to build rifles,it is a responsibility to check,or have checked,the headspace on every bolt you are going to use.
I ended up buying a set of gages.I also recommend a Sinclair bolt bolt tool.It makes stripping/reassy of the bolt a snap.About $20.
Ain't it fun?
Next question,have you checked the headspace on every bolt you are using?
I understand there is a temptation to say "Its supposed to be right with good parts" Thing is,sometimes it is not right.If its not right,its not safe.
If you are going to build rifles,it is a responsibility to check,or have checked,the headspace on every bolt you are going to use.
I ended up buying a set of gages.I also recommend a Sinclair bolt bolt tool.It makes stripping/reassy of the bolt a snap.About $20.
Ain't it fun?
SwampYankee
New member
Sigh. I hate checking headspace. But you guilted me into it. Spent lots of time messing around with Enfields and really got tired of the headspace issues. But I guess it couldn't hurt. I'm just going to buy a field gauge and the Sinclair bolt tool, however. I don't plan on building another AR, two is enough for me. And if I sell one of these, it will be to buy a new Colt, Noveske or some such other snobby AR. The bolts were new when purchased and assuming Delton and RRA can do anything right, I'm assuming a field gauge is good enough.
It does appear that the BCG I use primarily in the weapon with the chewed up buffer does have a very rough keyway. So I sanded it down, have sanded down the face of the buffer and am going to see if it makes a difference. These are AR BCG's, not M16 BCG's.
Here's another question, I pulled the bolt and instead of carbon fouling, the area past the gas check was greenish-blue, a color I associate with corroding copper. The stuff will not come off easily and has required vigorous buffing with a scotch brite pad. Anyone see that before? The other both is just covering in carbon....
It does appear that the BCG I use primarily in the weapon with the chewed up buffer does have a very rough keyway. So I sanded it down, have sanded down the face of the buffer and am going to see if it makes a difference. These are AR BCG's, not M16 BCG's.
Here's another question, I pulled the bolt and instead of carbon fouling, the area past the gas check was greenish-blue, a color I associate with corroding copper. The stuff will not come off easily and has required vigorous buffing with a scotch brite pad. Anyone see that before? The other both is just covering in carbon....
You are having a good time!!!
The Sinclair bolt tool is a great thing to have,It is useful any time you disassemble the bolt.
On buying headspace gages,if you walk into your friendly local gunshop,are pleasant,buy some ammo,or powder and bullets ,etc,then mention you have your clean upper and two stripped bolts,and simply suggest paying the gunsmith to drop in gages and spin the bolt makes more sense than buying gages you will never use again....
My experience with my gunsmith,before I bought gages,was,he was happy to check it,and charged me nothing.Understand,do not expect that,he has bills to pay.But establishing a relationship has benefits.
I currently have two AR's,and a couple of spare stripped bolts because I select fitted bolts that would make both rifles less than .001 different in headspace.It makes feeding them easier.
A rifle headspaced tight may not always fully lock.Thats not good,either.
On your green stuff,Play detective!
What sort of ammo do you use?If it comes from a country that carries AK's,they have an interest in screwing up AR's(joking!) but good ammo is important.I make mine.Its excellent,and it is always the same.
What do you lube with? A lot of folks have preferences,a lot of stuff works.
I know CLP works for me.Its not wrong
What cleaning solvents do you use,and do you put it away with the bolt full of solvent? Could be a problem with some solvents.
Scotchbrite? I hope you are using a white pad.White pads do not have abrasive grit embedded in them.Green pads do.Maroon pads do.You just do not want to clean your bolt with abrasives.
There are some good carbon removing solvents that help.An old bronze bore brush works well.Then clean the solvent off,and a little CLP is good.
On your comment about Rock River and Delton and headspace: It really helps to understand the functional relationships of the parts.
Your bolt and your Daniel Defense barrel determine headspace.Delton and Rock River have nothing to do with it.
I had a leftover Colt upper receiver.Couldn't stand that!!It now has a DD18 in midlength bbl,that tapered contour DD has.Forged,chrome lined.
Its got YHM lower,and YHM Mid diamond forend.Jewel trigger.Magpul collapse stock.RR ringmount,the forward cantilever,and a Leu VX3 2.5-8x Mildot.
Shoots great!! You have a DD bbl,nothing wrong with RR,they make good stuff!!I cannot comment on DelTon,as I have no experience.
You are getting an education.I suggest you work with what you have till you have a big grin on your face.Your hardware is fine.You would grow the same green stuff in a Noveske.
The Sinclair bolt tool is a great thing to have,It is useful any time you disassemble the bolt.
On buying headspace gages,if you walk into your friendly local gunshop,are pleasant,buy some ammo,or powder and bullets ,etc,then mention you have your clean upper and two stripped bolts,and simply suggest paying the gunsmith to drop in gages and spin the bolt makes more sense than buying gages you will never use again....
My experience with my gunsmith,before I bought gages,was,he was happy to check it,and charged me nothing.Understand,do not expect that,he has bills to pay.But establishing a relationship has benefits.
I currently have two AR's,and a couple of spare stripped bolts because I select fitted bolts that would make both rifles less than .001 different in headspace.It makes feeding them easier.
A rifle headspaced tight may not always fully lock.Thats not good,either.
On your green stuff,Play detective!
What sort of ammo do you use?If it comes from a country that carries AK's,they have an interest in screwing up AR's(joking!) but good ammo is important.I make mine.Its excellent,and it is always the same.
What do you lube with? A lot of folks have preferences,a lot of stuff works.
I know CLP works for me.Its not wrong
What cleaning solvents do you use,and do you put it away with the bolt full of solvent? Could be a problem with some solvents.
Scotchbrite? I hope you are using a white pad.White pads do not have abrasive grit embedded in them.Green pads do.Maroon pads do.You just do not want to clean your bolt with abrasives.
There are some good carbon removing solvents that help.An old bronze bore brush works well.Then clean the solvent off,and a little CLP is good.
On your comment about Rock River and Delton and headspace: It really helps to understand the functional relationships of the parts.
Your bolt and your Daniel Defense barrel determine headspace.Delton and Rock River have nothing to do with it.
I had a leftover Colt upper receiver.Couldn't stand that!!It now has a DD18 in midlength bbl,that tapered contour DD has.Forged,chrome lined.
Its got YHM lower,and YHM Mid diamond forend.Jewel trigger.Magpul collapse stock.RR ringmount,the forward cantilever,and a Leu VX3 2.5-8x Mildot.
Shoots great!! You have a DD bbl,nothing wrong with RR,they make good stuff!!I cannot comment on DelTon,as I have no experience.
You are getting an education.I suggest you work with what you have till you have a big grin on your face.Your hardware is fine.You would grow the same green stuff in a Noveske.
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