any reason i shouldn't

S

skizzums

New member
hey guys/gals. let me start by saying I have never owned a black powder anything before, but have always been interested, just hasn't been on the topside of my list that I am slowly creeping down on. anyway, playing on Google the other night and my wifey was looking over my shoulder. she saw a gun that she HAS to have, and that just doesn't happen. I am all for buying her a gun to get her to go to the range with me more often and keep her off my back a little when I build my next one, but I also don't wanna buy a piece of junk. also, any reason not to start with a .44, should I poke around for a .36 or something else first? I am a caster and reloader so bullets are not much of a concern. so just let me know what ya'll think, I would love to surprise her with it on valentines. the price is pretty sweet, although it keeps creeping up a little every day. was 200$ about a week ago
http://www.cabelas.com/product/Pietta-Model-Navy-Engraved-Nickel-Gold-Caliber-Revolver/734624.uts
 
You'll want to stick with light loads in it, but otherwise no real reason not to. The only issue against the 1851 Navies in .44 is the historical inaccuracy, but that sounds like it isn't really a concern. Hope she enjoys it!
 
I'd get it, those revolvers are a ton of fun to shoot especially in .44. If it has a brass frame the gun itself will wear out a lot faster, especially if using full power loads. Other than considering a steel or stainless steel frame I'd get it.
 
I would not bother getting a fancied-up revolver like that. Shooting, disassembly, and cleaning on your first outing are going to damage that finish.

Historically, 1851 Navy revolvers were .36 caliber. So I would not buy a .44 caliber variant. If I wanted a .44, I'd get a Colt or Remington Army.

There is no significant recoil in .44 cal black powder guns, except for the Colt Walker, which will hold up to 60 grains of powder. Even it does not have terrible recoil due to the massive weight of the gun.

Also: Historically, .36 caliber revolvers were slightly smaller than .44 revolvers. So there was some weight savings in the gun. But modern reproductions use the same parts - they just bore and rifle them to different sizes. This means a .36 reproduction revolver is actually heavier than a .44 as there is more metal in it.

.36 is nice because it uses less lead and powder per shot than a .44.

Steve
 
Unfortunately, of the revolver wasn't all froo froo like it is, my wife would have little to no interest in it. This pistol will probably have more pictures sent to girlfriends in text message than it will have bullets down the pipe. I'm not too concerned about the brass frame, I don't ever see a need to make heavy loads, heavy enough to hunt or protect anyways. Sounds like I will probably get it. A little mad ay cabelas though, wanted to do layaway, they said they only do layaway on guns, and since its not "legally" a gun, they don't d layaway on BP. Logic? I dunno. They said they stopped as of Dec 20th, my luck. Really wanted to lock in the sale price. But as long as the sale lasts for another 10 days, then ill pick it up. Thanks for everyone's input. I'll be posting again soon to learn how to use and maintain the darn thing.
 
With a 1:36" twist you'll want to use balls or a custom short bullet. Seeing that the only intention would be for range use you may as well just go with a ball mold as they are cheaper and use less lead.

I often read than 20 grns of 3F powder is about as much as you'd want to use so that it lasts. I'm not sure if that would require you to use some sort of filler as the projectile NEEDS to be seated against the powder. 20 grns is nearly half of the capacity with a ball...
 
Okay. I'll keep that in mind. All the lead I have laying around, I will definitely grab a ball mold. What diameter would I be looking out for? .454? Also, do you size those, or just shoot them how they drop? I will be powder coating to save myself some of the cleaning grief. And you said triple fine? How important is the number of fine and why? I understand the basics that the finer it is, the faster it will burn, bit can you not use any grade and just load accordinglly?
 
Also: Historically, .36 caliber revolvers were slightly smaller than .44 revolvers. So there was some weight savings in the gun. But modern reproductions use the same parts - they just bore and rifle them to different sizes. This means a .36 reproduction revolver is actually heavier than a .44 as there is more metal in it.
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This is false.

If you look at the picture, that .44 revolver clearly has a stepped cylinder ala 1860 Army. Any true 1851 replica I've seen, from the likes of Uberti or Pietta, use a non-tapered cylinder in .36. The .44 "Navies" (there actually never were Colt Navy revolver in .44 cal) and the .44 Armys both have the stepped cylinder. They are not just bored differently, the step is there to accomidate the larger diameter balls while still using the same fram size. Now if we're talking about the Remington Navys in .36, than I'm not sure, but the authentic .44 Army Colt repros and inauthentic .44 "Navy" Colts both use the tapered cylinder mentioned.

OP... sounds like your woman really wants THIS gun in particular. Personally I wouldn't recommend it but sounds like she wants this gaudy looking one. It should be a good shooter, just don't put too much powder in. The brass frames are not as durable, and I'm pretty sure I ruined a Pietta brass Navy by shooting 30 grain loads in it exclusively. It stretched the frame and produced severe endshake, I didn't know at the time! Young and dumb.
 
I have a similar 1851 in .44, not a fancy as yours but still a brass frame. Shoots very nicely with 20-22 grains of 3F and a .454 round ball. Be sure you use pure lead when casting round balls, No Alloys. No sizing needed if the mold is the right size. When seating the ball, a fine ring of lead should be shaved off, which indicates proper size. Filler or a lubricated wad is recommended under the ball to take up the space so the ball is nearly flush with the face of the chamber. Some set-back won't hurt anything except accuracy. Just be sure the ball is seated as far down as it will go, no air space. Don't recommend 2F as the course granulation may not burn completely in the short barrel of a revolver. 2F is for large bore rifles or shotguns. 4F is normally used for priming the pan of a flintlock. Burns very fast, too fast for your use.
Many shooters seal the chambers with something that lubricates, like Crisco, a commercial lube or some home made concoction. Keeps the fowling soft and some say prevents adjoining chambers from firing. My opinion is that chain fires are mostly caused at the cap end by it doesn't hurt to be safe.
Now go enjoy!
 
Okay. I'll keep that in mind. All the lead I have laying around, I will definitely grab a ball mold. What diameter would I be looking out for? .454?
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.454 seems to be the most common size, but it could be .452. What you want to look for when loading is the chamber mouth should shave off a small ring of lead. This tells you have an interference fit with the chamber. If you don't, you risk a chain fire where the blast from the shot being fired ignited adjacent cylinders.

Which is also why you never hold your other hand anywhere near the side of the revolver.

Also, do you size those, or just shoot them how they drop? I will be powder coating to save myself some of the cleaning grief.
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If shooting round ball, there is no sizing to be done. Usually for lube people use either lubed wads or they smear lube over the ball once loaded into the cylinder. You can use plain old Crisco. This lube not only lubricates the bullet but helps keep the fouling residue soft. Powder coating won't do anything for you as when you load it into the chamber the chamber mouth will shave it all off.

And you said triple fine? How important is the number of fine and why? I understand the basics that the finer it is, the faster it will burn, bit can you not use any grade and just load accordinglly?
Click to expand...

I would not use anything finer than 3F. You can use 2F and I know people who use it in competition with revolvers. Typically whatever charge you use of 2F you can use about 15% less in 3F for the same effect. 3F burns more vigorously. Since they cost the same, most folks opt for the 3F.

This is false.

If you look at the picture, that .44 revolver clearly has a stepped cylinder ala 1860 Army. Any true 1851 replica I've seen, from the likes of Uberti or Pietta, use a non-tapered cylinder in .36. The .44 "Navies" (there actually never were Colt Navy revolver in .44 cal) and the .44 Armys both have the stepped cylinder. They are not just bored differently, the step is there to accomidate the larger diameter balls while still using the same fram size. Now if we're talking about the Remington Navys in .36, than I'm not sure, but the authentic .44 Army Colt repros and inauthentic .44 "Navy" Colts both use the tapered cylinder mentioned.
Click to expand...

It appears you are correct on the cylinders, but what I have heard is they both have the same sized frame.

Steve
 
IMO, Bling-Bling.

Personally, I think it is ugly. Kind of like pink AR-15s or any other gaudy firearm. A Colt 1851 never had grips with screws like the 1858 Remington-Beals.

Beautifully engraved firearms are a different subject.

IMO, if one cannot enjoy the beauty of case-colored frames and load levers, blued barrels and cylinders, and brass grip frames and trigger guards, one needs to find another firearm venue. These are replicas of guns that represent the horrific killing and wounding of American soldiers on both sides of the Civil War/the War Of Northern Aggression.

I am not celebrating that; rather, I am trying to point out the small arms contribution to the slaughter.

I believe it is a matter of historic honor not to degrade these firearms.

I'll probably receive a lot of flak for this post, but... eh?
 
ok, thanks for your opinion, I guess. I will just have to live my life degrading fallen civil war heroes then..........I apologize in advance, I have found that girls tend like shiny things, at least the ones I wouldn't throw out of bed.:p no one is going to be taking this gun very seriously, it's just a toy, and will be played with as such.

thanks for the mold size. I will get online and try to get one concurrent with the pistol. what type of caps do these use? number 10, 11? and what type of powder do I need to be looking for? I would like something a bit clean, even if I have to pony up an extra few bucks.
 
skizzums:

I guess I was too hard on you with my opinions. So it goes.

I guess whatever Momma wants Momma gets. She probably doesn't give a crap what I think, anyway.

If you get it for her, I hope it functions well. I have Pietta 1851 .36 (2014 date) and it is a well-made gun. Have to fit the grips to the frame better and to do some wedge fitting and, thanks to .45 Dragoon, I have some more work to do in order to make it just about perfect without sending it to him for the ultimate massage. The guy is a talker plus, but really seems to know his stuff. Unless your wife is just going to use it as a wallhanger, I would suggest you get in touch with him and either take his suggestions, or send the pistol to him for a complete massaging. I talked to him on the phone this afternoon and it's not at all as if he keeps his secrets close to the vest. That said, anyone who would do this over the phone knows a helluva lot more when it comes to his personal service.

Good luck with the bling.
 
Personally I think that gun is ugly. I would not want to own it. However, if the wife wanted it, and the bling was what got her attention..... guess I'd buy it for her.

I believe the add says #10 caps. 777 or pyrodex is what I use for powder.
 
I would buy it but only if it had a non plated cylinder so I could shoot it with the non plated cylinder.

Oh and Skizzums i tried to message you but your box was full. Hopefully I have my paypal fixed.
 
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