Any Bad Reactions to Wood Grips?

my retired builder buddy has quit working with walnut... just inletting a stock can keep him out of the shop for several weeks... I don't think he has any issues actually handling the wood, especially if it's sealed, I think it's more the dust & shavings that effects him...

I've never noticed a problem chain sawing & such, but I know I've gotten a few slivers & some woods more than others seem to fester up & get painful right away...
 
Bill DeShivs wrote:

Cocobolo, kingwood, rosewoods and similar woods are not sealed. They won't properly take an applied finish. Most are sanded and buffed.
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That's what I thought. Thanks for sharing that. I imagine that goes for the beautiful Tulipwood too, as it's a fellow member of the Dalbergia family. Outside that family, do you know if Pau Ferro and Goncalo Alves are treated the same way?
 
I wonder if anyone has used 'stabilized' wood to make grips .Stabilized is often used on knife handles and usually it's made of acrylic .That goes into the wood , not just a coating .
 
Actually Lacquer works real well on all of the rose wood family of woods...I've used it for a long time.../ I wipe the piece with some acetone first to remove any dust or oil..and I let it evaporate for about 30 seconds ....then I spray a Deft Lacquer on the piece. I have also used a "woodturners finish" that is sold by Woodcraft and Rockler as well with success ...I don't know what is in it - but I suspect it is lacquer based.../ and in both cases I buff it with a soft cotton cloth at a moderate speed on the lathe...
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From an internet woodfinishing site...:

" Finishing Oily Woods, March 27, 2011

This article was inspired by a question from Schuyler. He writes:

I put two coats of General Finishes Seal-a-Cell on a piece of cocobolo, then a coat of Arm-r-Seal Urethane top coat (gloss). Three days later, it?s still slightly tacky. Will this ever cure enough that I can continue applying coats of Arm-r-Seal? What gives?
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Many exotic species, like cocobolo, have a certain amount of natural-occurring oils in them. When you coat them with an oil-based finish, the oil in the wood itself prevents the finish from curing properly. The end result is typically a gooey sticky mess.

Prevention

Fortunately, we do have options. First, you can use an evaporative finish, such as shellac or lacquer. These finishes don’t cure via oxidation and will usually have no problem curing on an oily wood.........
 
When people talk about Allergies, many people don't realize that there is a difference between a true allergy (causing respiratory edema, systemic hives, and do to an organic nitrogenous compound involved in local immune responses as well as regulating physiological function IE Histamine response) and a hyper sensitivity to something IE contact dermatitis. Often times people think that because they have rhinitis and mucosal irritations to the dust from wood, that this means they are allergic to the wood. Well no, the wood dust contact dermatitis.

Can people be allergic to woods, wood sap, oils, or other wood finishes? Yep. Hell some woods are poisonous such as the sumac family Anacardiaceae. That being said, are most allergies to wooden pistol grips true allergies? Nope, at least that's been my experience.

Hooya
 
I've worked in wood all of my life, and never had a reaction. But I have seen others that have. Most times it's to those woods with high natural resistance to rot and insects like cedar, redwood and cypress. Most times the reaction is from the inhalation of vapors/dust when sawing or sanding. I've never seen a reaction on the hands from just handling it. I'm not saying it doesn't happen, just that it's not very common. I assume there may be folks allergic to ivory, rubber and plastic also.
 
Not sure about pauo ferro, but S&W used a finish on goncalo alves.
I guess you can slap an applied finish on anything, but hard, oily woods don't need a finish. They can be sanded buffed to a shiny finish. Applied finishes don't adhere well. If you wipe with acetone, oils will eventually still seep to the surface, under your lacquer, etc.
My question is: why would you WANT to apply a surface finish to a wood that polishes beautifully naturally?
 
Since Hogue is one of the most popular manufacturers and uses rosewood, kingwood, tulipwood, cocobolo, goncalo alves, and pau ferro for their grips, I gave them a call. They said that they know of people having reactions to some of these woods. They recommend goncalo alves to sensitive people as it is less likely to cause problems.

Interestingly, they said that all their smooth grips are finished with carnauba wax, which is pretty benign stuff. They finish all checkered grips with tung oil. I've seen some controversy over whether tung oil can be a problem in its own right or if that's just a myth.
 
My Pau Ferro grips from them was finished with carnauba wax, in fact I think they actually state that in the advertising.
 
"Oil should be gone " The oil is in the wood and doesn't simply evaporate. That's why stock makers always have wiped forend tips of those woods with acetone before attempting to glue them.
Tung oil.Somewhere I have seen comment that the japanese rifles collected by the military after the war caused problems with our soldiers .The allergic reactions were common from the tung oil that the stocks were treated with.
The public often misunderstands and misnames things like allergies .They don't distinguish between allergy and toxic reactions . The medical "profession" plays their games also.To them the allergic reaction to small molecules is a "sensitivety " .Originally they said only higher animals [ people ] could get allergies . I've met lots of dogs and cats who would argue that !!:(
 
What I really want is some data on the comparative allergenic/sensitizing contact strength of popular woods; but that data doesn't seem to exist. A good study would have large groups of people strapped with small untreated wood panels (and inert control materials) on the belly or thigh for a week or two to see what reactions develop. Since I have neither a lab nor a research grant, I figured I'd look for anecdotal evidence.
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Well there you go apply for a grant. Seems our government is will to spend money on senseless stuff so this should fall into place in monies wasted. just my most likely unwanted opinion
 
We were warned about it in stockmaking. Some people will have allergic reactions but thankfully none of us did. It's mostly to exotic woods and the dust that is generated that is inhaled while working on the wood. Mahogany has been long noted for it.

Most woods are sealed by the finish. However, checkered wood is left unfinished and the user should be aware if they are allergic an exotic wood before using it.
 
Rosewood, cocobolo, pau ferro and other tropical or sub-tropical woods have a lot of oil, best not to finish them with a sealer -- you end up with bubbles under the finish. Hogues fancy wood grips are all finished with a coat of regular carnauba based paste wax. A high-quality dust mask should be used when working - sanding or filing any of these woods, alergic reactions are fairly common. Paste wax is OK for finishing these, it's the preferred method.
 
I'm actually working with some screwbean mesquite for a rifle, right now. Like many varieties of cedar, it is known to have some compounds that don't necessarily get along with some people or animals.

I spent almost a year (on and off) fondling the stocks, rough shaping with a rasp or saw, and drilling holes, with no issues.

But, once I started sanding and producing fine particles... Everything went nuts.
My sinuses would get inflamed, my eyes would itch and water, my hands would swell a bit, and I'd start itching all over.

The first couple of times, I didn't connect the dots. But, once I did, I started washing my hands and face regularly - even stopping what I was doing to wash, and return to the same job - wearing a mask if it didn't interfere with the process, and showering after I dusted, swept, and gave the dust time to settle.
If I don't wear a mask, my sinuses and eyes get a little irritated. But, the itching and swelling are at least reduced and generally not noticeable.

It still doesn't bother me to fondle, test fit (to my shoulder), and gently caress that sexy piece of wood, though.
...It's just the sanding dust that gets to me. And once the stocks are fully finished and sealed, I'll probably forget about the whole thing and never have a problem again.
 
How about this one, about a week and a half ago I purchased Hogue Colt Officers Pau Ferro Smooth Wood Grips with Finger Grooves off ebay, popped em on and thought nothing of it. After about 4 days of edc, I noticed a large tender leathery rash on my carry side, didn't even occure to me that the grips might be the culprit. I started to carry cross draw till the rash went away...until I noticed a similar small rash where the grip had sat on my off side. I'll be putting my rubber Hogue grips back on, and it's a shame because I loved the wood ones.
 
I've never had any allergic reactions to any of my wood or more exotic grips. However, I can see how it would be possible. I have always wanted a set of grips made from Lignum Vitae which is a very hard, dense wood with quite a bit of natural oil in it. They use it to make bearings for seafaring vessels.
 
Thanks John, I enjoyed reading about Mr. Harrison. I didn't realize they used this material in clock making, but it makes sense. It makes me want a set of grips in this wood even more!
 
If it bothers you , get rid of it ! You can develop allergies at any time ,more so as you get older. Don't play the "it's only a mild reaction " game .I recently read of a woman who hated grey hair so she dyed it each month , with only a mild reaction. Then one month it killed her !!! :eek:
 
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