Any advantages to wood over synthetic?

Other than looks there are seldom any advantages

Wood stocks can often be lighter than a synthetic of the same dimensions, but will never be as stable
 
One of the hunting magazines recently did a test where they soaked a wood and plastic stock in water for several days and eventually put things back together and the wood stocks point of impact moved 5 inches. But I believe this is one of those extremes that 99.9% of hunting rifles will never experience.

I still prefer wood over synthetics.
 
One advantage is that, in cold weather, wood stocks tend to be warmer against the face and hands.

Another is the beauty factor. That's why I choose to have two stocks for my deer rifle; one for looks and range queen activities, the other for bad weather hunting. Both stocks shoot very close to the same POI.
 
Wood looks nicer, most of the time, synthetics tend to be more stable.

If you shoot your rifles year round, in all weather, there can be some significant differences with wood stocks. A lot depends on how they are inleted, and are/were treated. The only way to know for sure, is to shoot them year round, warm/cold, wet/dry and keep track. Ive has some that didnt seem to be bothered, and others that would run all over the place as conditions varied.

Good synthetic stocks seem to be pretty much immune to seasonal changes. At least mine have been.
 
Some of the best wood stocks Ive had, were those ugly polyurethane dipped Remington 700 stocks that were popular back in the 80's-90's. They seemed to be completely sealed, and suffered very little, if any changes in POA/POI over the seasons from year to year.
 
i have a heavy bench 6x47 that is glued into a synthetic bench stock and it has not changed poi over the years, for the first two years i would shoot a shot into the same target when i went to a match to foul the barrel and if i remember right that group was under a inch. eastbank.
 
From a "price point" standpoint, the use of cheaper synthetic allows either a lower price OR slightly better metal at a similar price. I don't pay that much attention to "looks" although I do appreciate "lines". A good synthetic stock that supports the barreled action properly and is stable is what I look for.
 
I keep my older Win's and Sako's at home during hunting season anymore except on the nicest of days. Usually I take a synthetic as I don't care to beat on them and they hold up against the elements. Wood looks prettier, thats about it.
 
Most factory and the budget aftermarket synthetic stocks weigh pretty much the same as wood and are often heavier. There are a few exceptions, but even then the weight difference is insignificant. Most factory wood and factory synthetics will weigh 30-36 oz depending on who made them. Ruger and Remington factory synthetics tend to be on the lower end at about 30 oz. About the same as a factory wood Remington MT rifle or Winchester Featherweight stock.

The standard fill McMillans and other high end stocks made with fiberglass will be in the same 30-36 oz range.

The B&C Medalist and HS-Precision synthetics weigh 36-40 oz

The Hogue synthetics weigh either 40 oz for the versions with pillars, the bedding block versions weigh 48 oz.

Laminated wood is generally in the 36-48 oz range.

You don't get a truly light stock until you get into the high end stocks made with Kevlar. A McMillan Edge, Brown Precision or MPI lightweight stock will be in the 16-24 oz range depending.

Synthetics don't make the rifle more accurate. They do prevent the point of impact from shifting due to environmental changes which will make any wood stock expand or contract. Even the cheapest versions are tougher and less likely to break if abused.

Is there anything you can use (spray, type of wax) on wood stocks that help them battle the elements better?
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There are a lot of ways to help prevent moisture from entering, but that doesn't address the real problem. When wood is dried in the kiln they have to leave some moisture in the wood. Too dry and it will break easily. Even if you completely seal the stock it is the water inside that expands and contracts as temperature, altitude and humidity change.
 
"...help them battle the elements better..." Yep. An oil finish, preferably tung oil and sealing the inside. Especially the barrel channel.
Tung oil gives a hard, waterproof, shiney, finish when properly rubbed in. Only needs more oil in the event of a scratch too. 'Properly rubbed in' being key.
It's not the moisture content of kiln dried wood that causes expansion and contraction. It's the wood taking on more moisture with varying humidity. Sealing the inside, with any wood sealer(wood is wood. Use the same product and techniques used on fine furniture.), helps make this go away.
Oh and a wood stock, usually being a bit heavier than cheap synthetics, helps absorb recoil. As well as being much prettier.
 
T.O"Heri yes you are right. I do like the wood better. I have both like you said wood helps to take the kick out.
 
Synthetics are typically weather proof (as long as you keep them out of the sun) and light. Wood can be just as weather proof (with laminated stocks) and light, but the big advantage of wood stocks is that you can customize them. Put a recoil reducer in it, move the sling attachment points, drill out some weight, add a checkering etc.
And then are those English double rifles with their grade 10 woods where the raw block goes for $10,000 ...
 
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