Joe-ker
I tried that with the bushing dies ,sized the neck with very little tension it self seat the bullet but when the bullet would hit the lands it would cause the bullet to back out . Using the bolt housing without the firing pin assembly , you can first get your case headspace by just feeling how the bolt closes then adjust the die lower each time until its perfect , same with OAL by feel & land marks on the bullet.
Being that your using your 700 for bench rest like myself , I removed the plunger spring , replaced it with a spring from a disposable lighter. I load one at a time ,so the case just stays on the follower ,saving my brass from dings. Your groups will tighten upwith a light trigger, all rifles the triggers are in pounds . Bench rest rifles are in ounces , makes a big difference , I installed a Jewell set at 10 ounces , feels like 3 pounds when you get use to it.
1-12 twist is good for 50 to 62 grain bullets , Sierra MatchKings will do the job , just remember to check your ogive settings after shooting that lot , same bullet but every box will change in ogive setting. If your looking for that one hole group stick to 1 & 200 yard range. Case prep is important to accuracy , I trim my brass every firing , tried neck sizing but when you F/L size to .001 case headspace every case is exact without overworking the brass.
1/12 twist is easier on the barrel , they are speeding up the twists to use heaver bullets for longer shooting distances but for a 223 200 yards is possible for that dime size group. How do you prep your brass , how many round do you shoot per range trip with that rifle.
What model 700 ? Mine started out as a Rem 700 LTR 20" barrel , after 4000+ down the tube I had the barrel changed . That's another thing , keep a log on your loads and also round count for barrel life. Benchrest shooting , no oil in the barrel . If your not going to shoot for long periods of time then oil to prevent rust . Keep the rifle in good shape clean & grease the back end of the bolt locking lugs & camming areas.