madcratebuilder
New member
If it's being real stubborn put a Popsicle stick between the ram and cylinder. That well protect the metal on the cylinder.
Another Colt Newb wedge question
- Thread starter Nate1778
- Start date
williamfeldmann
New member
"eat the Popsicle first."
My gun got all gooey and fuity until I read that post, then my monitor got a gooey and fruity. On the plus side who knew a Colt could taste so GOOD.
No Colts were harmed in the writing of this post.
My gun got all gooey and fuity until I read that post, then my monitor got a gooey and fruity. On the plus side who knew a Colt could taste so GOOD.
No Colts were harmed in the writing of this post.
Fingers McGee
New member
MCB has it right.
Now, that's funny, I don't care who you are
This is how the wedge looks on an 1851 .36 that was made in 1862. The barrel/frame connection is still very tight.
Well what do ye say? How do the modern repo Colts compare to the original? looks like you take that made in 1862 out shooting. Much difference between an original and a repo?
Well what do ye say? How do the modern repo Colts compare to the original? looks like you take that made in 1862 out shooting. Much difference between an original and a repo?
madcratebuilder
New member
The 2nd and 3rd gen Colts are near identical. On the originals the wedge was serial numbered to the gun, not so on 2nd and 3rd gen. The Italian repros are a very close copy, some makers closer than others.
Wrong
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Fingers McGee
New member
Au Contraire. Wedges for 2nd Gens are serial numbered. All 2nd Gens have SN on barrel, frame, loading lever, wedge, backstrap, trigger guard, and cylinder. Not 100% sure about the Sig Series guns; but I believe they are numbered the same.
madcratebuilder
New member
Well I cleaned my glasses, wiped the grease of the bottom of the wedge and low and behold it is numbered! I checked my 3rd gens, they have the last three digits. I know I read that they are numbered, just a brain fart.
Good thing your here to keep on the straight and narrow.
Fingers McGee
New member
Happy to be of service MCB. Just a little payback for you getting (stealing) the Cased Pocket Police. I'm jealous.
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broknprism
New member
I just went through the wedge initiation yesterday with two Colts, and advice from a member of another forum was practical and effective -- use a wooden dowel to compress the wedge spring down and then tap. I knew I saw a lip on the spring, but everyone (but this one guy) said "just hit it hard." I didn't want to shear the lip off, since it serves a function, and the wooden dowel worked great.
And I just learned something here about the popsicle stick trick. Thanks!
And I just learned something here about the popsicle stick trick. Thanks!
I found a small hammer that has a hard rubber head on one side and a hard plastic head on the other. Neither will mar the finish on a barrel. A good smack with the rubber side will normally drive a stubborn wedge nearly through the barrel.
Two of the used guns that I have bought for a song because they were non shooters had the wedge driven in from the right. One guy used a lot of effort and apparently a big ball peen hammer. that one was in fact a non shooter. the arbor had been beaten loose by his driving the wedge in.
Two of the used guns that I have bought for a song because they were non shooters had the wedge driven in from the right. One guy used a lot of effort and apparently a big ball peen hammer. that one was in fact a non shooter. the arbor had been beaten loose by his driving the wedge in.
I would like to pose a follow up question to my initial newb question.
How secure do you reinstall the wedge. Obviously your not hitting back in with the same force it took to pull the initial wedge. I have been using the butt end (wood) of a screwdriver and giving it two decent whacks. Nothing major and the handle does not have enough mass to really drive the pin. Does this sound about right. Or is simply pushing it back with the fingers OK.
How secure do you reinstall the wedge. Obviously your not hitting back in with the same force it took to pull the initial wedge. I have been using the butt end (wood) of a screwdriver and giving it two decent whacks. Nothing major and the handle does not have enough mass to really drive the pin. Does this sound about right. Or is simply pushing it back with the fingers OK.
Success criteria for installing the wedge is to get between 0.006 and 0.010 clearance between the front of the cylinder and the barrel forcing cone. There's no special wedge position that achieves this goal, nor is the force required the same from gun to gun. Just push it in until there's very little room between the cylinder and the forcing cone.
madcratebuilder
New member
IMHO you should only have to use firm thumb pressure to seat the wedge. I don't believe in using the wedge to adjust the barrel/cylinder gap as some do. I believe the gap is controlled by the frame, barrel lug and arbor fit. If your using the wedge to close up the gap your tilting the barrel up. Most of the revolvers I have bought required work in the area to make them fit correct. Once that is accomplished you should not have any problems with the wedge.
Fingers McGee
New member
+1
Madcratebuilder wrote:
I agree with Mad Crate - almost.
I also usually just poke the wedge in with my thumb or with a rap from the heel of my hand - however - I do have one revolver that I can't do that with. The wedge spring on this one sticks up a lot and it is a real pain to even get the darned thing started in the barrel slot.
If the wedge is pulled completely out of the barrel slot, I've got to use a pair pf needle nose pliers to hold the spring down so it can be squeezed under the wedge screw.
I've got to tap it in with something more substantial than flesh and bone.
One of these days I'm going to bend it down and maybe stake it in by peening over the slot in the wedge a little bit.
I agree with Mad Crate - almost.
I also usually just poke the wedge in with my thumb or with a rap from the heel of my hand - however - I do have one revolver that I can't do that with. The wedge spring on this one sticks up a lot and it is a real pain to even get the darned thing started in the barrel slot.
If the wedge is pulled completely out of the barrel slot, I've got to use a pair pf needle nose pliers to hold the spring down so it can be squeezed under the wedge screw.
I've got to tap it in with something more substantial than flesh and bone.
One of these days I'm going to bend it down and maybe stake it in by peening over the slot in the wedge a little bit.