Annealing

What I have found with Lapua as you (I) use it, the neck tension gets less.

If I anneal it, then it gets tighter for a bit.

Either way its consistent, just different tensions. No idea why.

Other brass acts differently. Lapua is the only case I have to the 6.5 (Pederson is the only other supplier and it costs more).

Flip side is at least in a good chamber on a custom barrel, Lapua last 10+ cycles before anneal and even then I have yet to crack a case, not sure how many cycles it would go.

I just accept what I find and deal with it accordingly. Someone might have an answer but trying to separate real answers out of opinions? Shrug.
 
sako2 said:
Thanks guy's. I really like the machine. Did 200 22-250 cases in about 20 minutes.
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Sako,

Does it do all brass calibers the same amount of time? or can you adjust how long the annealing process is per caliber? Im assuming 223 will be alot shorter than 30-06 etc.

I was thinking of the annealz machine but yours seems a good one aswell
 
sako2 said:
I was looking for a annealing machine to do my 6.5 prc cases. Found a brand new Bench source at a gun show that i got for $350. I annealed my caes and shot some today. I was getting soot on the necks before. Today my cases didn't look like fired ones. No soot on the necks. I shot this same load over my chrono before and today they were 40 fps faster. Does that seem possible?
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Yep. If you were shooting brass with hard necks that were not sealing well.
 
Key check on anneal is if the discoloration polishes off.

If not, you have gone soft and will not go back to normal.

That said, early on with a torch I over did cases, they shot ok. No idea how long they would last as I pitched them.
 
RC20 said:
Key check on anneal is if the discoloration polishes off.

If not, you have gone soft and will not go back to normal.

That said, early on with a torch I over did cases, they shot ok. No idea how long they would last as I pitched them.
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As an experiment, I took some new 308Win brass, set them 1/3 deep in water, annealed the necks till they were cherry hot all the way to base of shoulder. Properly Annealed again after 6 reloadings. After 13 reloadings, I threw them away due to loose primer pockets.
I guess it's possible to screw up annealing, but it's not rocket science.
 
reynolds357 said:
As an experiment, I took some new 308Win brass, set them 1/3 deep in water, annealed the necks till they were cherry hot all the way to base of shoulder. Properly Annealed again after 6 reloadings. After 13 reloadings, I threw them away due to loose primer pockets.

I guess it's possible to screw up annealing, but it's not rocket science.
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I'm afraid cherry red could be already too hot. Like driving, it ain't rocket science. But if you don't do it right, the consequence could take rocket science to repair.

-TL

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 
akinswi yes there is a timer you can adjust for different cases. you can adjust from 1 second to 10 seconds. My prc cases take 3 seconds and 22-250 cases took ! 1/2 seconds. You can use 1 or 2 torches.
 
Cherry red has gone way past anneal.

The good news is being in water it did not go down to the base, that is a KABOOMY!!!!

Perils of the failed 1903's that they were heat treating by eyeball. It no a work.

Ergo, I could spend a lot of time figuring out torches and the variables they have (Metal God) or I could sell a gun and buy the Annie.

Regardless, I do a 3 step process. One is a temp stick that just barely melts at 750 deg, I look for any glow (not red but any glow) in the case, I watch for the flash of discoloration and then I see if it polishes off.
 
tangolima said:
I'm afraid cherry red could be already too hot. Like driving, it ain't rocket science. But if you don't do it right, the consequence could take rocket science to repair.

-TL

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
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Notice, I said as an experiment. The worst that could have happened was a neck split. The bottom 1/3 was protected by cold water. Guess I could have had a mid case separation. Had one of those in 300 win mag and did not know it happened until next round would not chamber.
 
As you went too soft, neck split is not what would occur, nothing would occur other than a loss of consistant neck tension (not sure that is the end of the world, fired off a round the other day that had a hell of a hard seat compared to the butter soft of the others and it landed right in the middle of a 5/8 group.

The case split is too much re-size and or maybe a bit of chamber oversize. The best counter is shoulder set back or .005 (I overshoot a bit). That or Lapua brass which seems to be resistant to case splits as well as neck splits

I have had case splits with Mil Surplus chambers, not sure I solved it as I shoot those a lot less and fully case supported custom barrels good chambers on my Savage actions

Its quite the fun figuring it all out.
 
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