Annealing with Induction Heater?

I am glad that it is not me who have to remove all the Tempilaq. I only mark about 3 and then count how many seconds it takes to melt. Thereafter I count them all down and it spares me to remove the Tempilaq.
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Reloader270, I agree, starting over every day is a bad habit. When this thread is over it will have ended at the same place all the other threads have ended.

I was hoping someone wanting speed and faster would look into the carbon torch. And for soldering? There is no interest.

F. Guffey
 
The same place. Everybody here will still know what he knows and will know what the others know, and you will have your Secret Knowledge.
 
I do as Metal shows in his pics, but I use 2 torches aimed at each other. Got deep well sockets,cut to the length I need and come from underside of torches.
I keep a bucket with Ice water next to me, drop them in and done. From there I took a 12 x 12 3/4 inch plywood board. Pounded 4 inch finishing nails in every inch square. Put brass on nails, turn oven to 175. As soon as it reaches 175 i turn it off,put board in oven and I have brass ready to prime in 20 minutes.
I agree with most- Don't over think a very simple process. We are not recreating the wheel here.
 
Wait,

I will be right back.

http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...&mid=7CA84E11364C5101D46B7CA84E11364C5101D46B

I'm back.

I had to scroll up to determine what forum this this is. A member of this froum contacted me, he knew enough about smithing, shooting and reloading to determine fact from fiction, truth from nonsense. He said he had to convenes himself I was real. to avoid wasting his time I set up a few projects, one was annealing. No magic, no secrets.

The same place. Everybody here will still know what he knows and will know what the others know, and you will have your Secret Knowledge.
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I agree with most- Don't over think a very simple process. We are not recreating the wheel here.
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When this thread is over it will have ended at the same place all the other threads have ended.
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F. Guffey
 
You heat the exposed case necks until they are a dull red. Brass conducts heat nicely, and the annealing is consistent. Once brass is annealed, it won't get any softer-it melts, so annealing with a propane torch and water is 100% efficient. All the gizmos and gadgets are simply a waste of money. :rolleyes:
 
"I do as Metal shows in his pics, but I use 2 torches aimed at each other. Got deep well sockets,cut to the length I need and come from underside of torches.
I keep a bucket with Ice water next to me, drop them in and done. From there I took a 12 x 12 3/4 inch plywood board. Pounded 4 inch finishing nails in every inch square. Put brass on nails, turn oven to 175. As soon as it reaches 175 i turn it off,put board in oven and I have brass ready to prime in 20 minutes.
I agree with most- Don't over think a very simple process. We are not recreating the wheel here."

Yes, you seem to be. 2 torches, sockets?
Ice water is not necessary and it offers no advantage over room temperature (or even hot) water.
Just put the cases, upright, into a pan of water with the case necks exposed. Heat with a propane torch until the neck turns a dull red. You don't even have to tip the cases over in the water. Once the necks turn dull red they are annealed. Nothing further is needed.
 
I have been reading through some of these annealing threads and I'm amazed.
I don't reload, but I thoroughly understand the process. I also have been working metals for 40 years.
You guys are getting taken to the cleaners! Annealing brass is as simple a process as there is. You don't "partially anneal" cases, you simply anneal them.
Even heat treating simple carbon steel is easy, but it's rocket science compared to annealing brass!
 
You don't "partially anneal" cases, you simply anneal them.
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To be clear which are you saying ? You "can't" or should "not" partially anneal cases ?

I'm glad someone that works with metals for a living is here .

Is it true that brass starts to be annealed at 450* ?

Is it true that brass is fully annealed at 650* ?

If you are looking for a specific hardness for the brass to be . Does the temperature the brass reached effect how soft or hard the brass is when finished ?

Can you or should you anneal a 223 case different then a 10lb block of brass ?

If you only want to anneal a small portion of a piece of brass . Would that be considered Partially annealing the brass ?
 
Ice water is not necessary and it offers no advantage over room temperature (or even hot) water.
Just put the cases, upright, into a pan of water with the case necks exposed. Heat with a propane torch until the neck turns a dull red. You don't even have to tip the cases over in the water. Once the necks turn dull red they are annealed. Nothing further is needed.


Bill- I have tried the standing cases up in water.. Not sure about most here, but when I do that the cases tip over when I bring the torch to them. Also I have found that you get un-even heating when using just one torch. The water and socket set up works like a charm. I get perfect annealed cases every time. I am no pro, but by not cooling in water,will the heat not make it down to the base?.
My sockets are cut to the length of each case,so that just a small portion of the shoulder sticks over the top of the socket.
 
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To be clear which are you saying ? You "can't" or should "not" partially anneal cases ?

I'm glad someone that works with metals for a living is here .

"Is it true that brass starts to be annealed at 450* ?

Is it true that brass is fully annealed at 650* ? "

When it turns dull red, it's fully annealed. I never bothered to measure the temperature.

"If you are looking for a specific hardness for the brass to be . Does the temperature the brass reached effect how soft or hard the brass is when finished ?"
Yes, but I suspect you want to fully anneal the necks.

"Can you or should you anneal a 223 case different then a 10lb block of brass ?"

Time and temperature. Of course a thin .223 case will heat faster than a 10 lb block.

"If you only want to anneal a small portion of a piece of brass . Would that be considered Partially annealing the brass ?"

Possibly, but I was referring to annealing to different hardnesses. Regardless-you only want to anneal case necks, not the body.
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"Bill- I have tried the standing cases up in water.. Not sure about most here, but when I do that the cases tip over when I bring the torch to them. Also I have found that you get un-even heating when using just one torch. The water and socket set up works like a charm. I get perfect annealed cases every time. I am no pro, but by not cooling in water,will the heat not make it down to the base?.
My sockets are cut to the length of each case,so that just a small portion of the shoulder sticks over the top of the socket."

If you insist on annealing that way, yes drop them in water to stop the heat migration. It may not be necessary, but it won't hurt.
If the cases are blown over in the water, turn the torch down!
Uneven heating with one torch: you have apparently discovered a phenomenon that has eluded reloaders for 100 years! Just angle the torch flame downward so that it covers the entire case mouth.

Or, just keep on using sockets, drills, multiple torches, etc.
 
There is no need to drop in water or do something to stop the migration of heat . As soon as the torch is removed the case starts to cool . Now that is not to say the colder lower section of the case will not heat up a bit . As long as you heat the neck and shoulder rather quickly the migration will be minor as far as temperature .

I did a test to see if i could get the head of a 308 case to hot buy only applying the flame to the neck and shoulder .
z1mr.jpg


That picture shows I applied tempilaq of 750* just below the shoulder and 450* at the head . Although I was able to get the 450* indicator to melt at the head . It was only after the flame was on the case for 15+ seconds and the neck and shoulder got cherry red . My conclusion is/was that if you use the torch method at the neck and shoulders . It is just about impossible to get the head to hot . Only because If the head got to hot , The neck and shoulder would be WAY over annealed trashing the case anyway . Now that would not be the case if the case and or portion of the case was slowly annealed over several minutes . In that case the migration of high heat would reach the head .
 
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How do you "over-anneal?"
Either the brass is annealed, or it isn't. You don't "temper" brass.
The only way to over anneal is to melt the case.
 
Well I guess your right as far as brass as a whole . How ever when anneal rifle brass i think it's reasonable to say if you annealed the case to the point that the head is to soft to be safe . you have over annealed the case or heated the neck to 1100* would be over annealing the case . Below are a couple articles explaining in more detail why brass as a whole and firearm cartridge brass are different in the way you anneal them .

Since this is a firearm forum . It's likely when you hear someone say annealing brass . They mean cartridge brass and not just a random piece of metal . There are some specifics to annealing a firearm cartridge that may not apply to the general process of annealing metals .

It's like trying to say you can't over cook a steak because it's either cooked or it's not .

http://bisonballistics.com/articles/the-science-of-cartridge-brass-annealing

http://www.6mmbr.com/annealing.html
 
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You guys are getting taken to the cleaners! Annealing brass is as simple a process as there is.
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Bill DeShivs, I agree, simple rules and there are not many rules. BUT! There must be more to it than that.

F. Guffey
 
No, there isn't. Keep the rest of the case cool, and heat the neck to dull red. As soon as you reach dull red, remove heat.
You can make it as scientific as you want, or as simple as I have explained. Tempilaq is not required.
 
You guys are getting taken to the cleaners! Annealing brass is as simple a process as there is. You don't "partially anneal" cases, you simply anneal them.
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When it turns dull red, it's fully annealed. I never bothered to measure the temperature.

Yes, but I suspect you want to fully anneal the necks.
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Bill : are both these quotes yours ? I'm having a hard time seeing where you quote someone in your post and where your comments start .

There is a quotes icon at the top of the page you can use and it will place things you wish to quote in a box or you can just use ( quotations )
 
Bill : are both these quotes yours ?
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I quoted Bill DeShivs, I did not feel it necessary to lecture him on quotes, he has 7,000 post. Years ago I took a look at annealing, I decided there were factors, simple factors and rules, I even thought of the rules as simple.

AND THEN? I decided helping would not help.

F. Guffey
 
he has 7,000 post.
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It was not a lecture or even snarky . I was simply asking for some help .

Guffey : Please don't put tone or ATTITUDE :rolleyes: to words that have none . If bill feels I was rude or snarky he can say so him self .

I really have a hard time seeing where the quotes stop and his thoughts start . I have on more then one occasion quoted him to only realize what I quoted was contradicting and figured it was not likely he was contradicting him self in the same post . How ever the quotes above I believe he said do seem to be contradicting . The only real issue I have with this is the first quote was what set us on this path of debate .
Annealing brass is as simple a process as there is. You don't "partially anneal" cases, you simply anneal them
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To then make to more comments later talking about wanting the brass fully annealed would seem to say you can partially anneal which goes against the first quote .
 
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