Annealing under the Microsope Part II
- Thread starter hounddawg
- Start date
If the cases are being painted in the same area and placed in the same location in the magnetic field the only explanation is the Templaq is reacting to the inductance and not the heat from the case.
This has been my big issue with the Annie since the first annealing thread. There is no method provided with the basic machine to get the case in the same place in the induction field with every anneal. If I owned an Annie the first thing I would do is get the flux concentration coil and build a jig from some wood or plastic to make sure that the case was in the exact same position every time I hit the anneal switch. That is the only way you will ever get any consistency from one of these units
This has been my big issue with the Annie since the first annealing thread. There is no method provided with the basic machine to get the case in the same place in the induction field with every anneal. If I owned an Annie the first thing I would do is get the flux concentration coil and build a jig from some wood or plastic to make sure that the case was in the exact same position every time I hit the anneal switch. That is the only way you will ever get any consistency from one of these units
JeepHammer
Moderator
RC 20,
I talked about this early on, I don't trust Templaq.
To check Templaq I dip a soda glass rod (no lead) into the paint, check it in the annealer.
Pyrex rods have lead & heat up, soda glass doesn't heat up.
Some of the templaq heats up and melts, telling you that it contains electrical conducting materials, probably metals.
Canning jars, especially old ones, are very low lead (or other metals) so a shard usually won't warm up in the induction coil. (Makes sense NOT to have lead in a food storage container)
Modern canning jars have very low lead, just a trace, because they are normally made from recycled glass and not soda glass anymore.
Just a broken shard from a canning jars is enough to paint and stick in the coil to see if it melts at all, which melts first, and will verify your suspicions.
I'd avoid wood, moisture is an issue, and I avoid commercial food jars, they have up to 25% lead content... (Bad for food containers to have lead, one of the reasons I home can a bunch).
The soda glass rod I use is for home canning, cost about $3 and is about 3/8" in diameter.
If the paint has higher electrical resistance than the brass, and most metals will have higher resistance, the paint will melt before the brass heats up to temp.
If you want to test the paint another way, use a torch or heat gun on a scrap brass, see which paint melts first.
Like I've said before, I've had issues with Templaq, the reason I started looking into thermocouples & infrared... Guys claim Templaq is .003% of scale all day long, I know better...
Trust nothing, verify everything, never believe the propaganda!
Just because you are paranoid DOES NOT mean the bastards ain't out to get you!
I talked about this early on, I don't trust Templaq.
To check Templaq I dip a soda glass rod (no lead) into the paint, check it in the annealer.
Pyrex rods have lead & heat up, soda glass doesn't heat up.
Some of the templaq heats up and melts, telling you that it contains electrical conducting materials, probably metals.
Canning jars, especially old ones, are very low lead (or other metals) so a shard usually won't warm up in the induction coil. (Makes sense NOT to have lead in a food storage container)
Modern canning jars have very low lead, just a trace, because they are normally made from recycled glass and not soda glass anymore.
Just a broken shard from a canning jars is enough to paint and stick in the coil to see if it melts at all, which melts first, and will verify your suspicions.
I'd avoid wood, moisture is an issue, and I avoid commercial food jars, they have up to 25% lead content... (Bad for food containers to have lead, one of the reasons I home can a bunch).
The soda glass rod I use is for home canning, cost about $3 and is about 3/8" in diameter.
If the paint has higher electrical resistance than the brass, and most metals will have higher resistance, the paint will melt before the brass heats up to temp.
If you want to test the paint another way, use a torch or heat gun on a scrap brass, see which paint melts first.
Like I've said before, I've had issues with Templaq, the reason I started looking into thermocouples & infrared... Guys claim Templaq is .003% of scale all day long, I know better...
Trust nothing, verify everything, never believe the propaganda!
Just because you are paranoid DOES NOT mean the bastards ain't out to get you!
Last edited:
Ok, to add into this, I have the 750 deg crayon from Temple.
I ran a series of tests using
1. Cryaone
2. Red Glow (darkened room)
3. Change of thie finish
I have gone with JH recommend of a wider spacing on the Annie, Yellow and Blue ferrite elements, so these are not as close as Annie recommends.
He is right in that it creates a slower more uniform heat up.
Case top of neck is higher than you would think, but that also goes with the setup and when I do glow red you can see the top heats up first.
What I came up with was that 2.7 seconds looks to be close.
I get a crayon smear, no glow and the finish of the brass does not change.
As I have been running 1.8 seconds or so out of serious caution, I look to be safe.
I plan to up the Annie as it were and see how it goes on a select group of brass.
I ran a series of tests using
1. Cryaone
2. Red Glow (darkened room)
3. Change of thie finish
I have gone with JH recommend of a wider spacing on the Annie, Yellow and Blue ferrite elements, so these are not as close as Annie recommends.
He is right in that it creates a slower more uniform heat up.
Case top of neck is higher than you would think, but that also goes with the setup and when I do glow red you can see the top heats up first.
What I came up with was that 2.7 seconds looks to be close.
I get a crayon smear, no glow and the finish of the brass does not change.
As I have been running 1.8 seconds or so out of serious caution, I look to be safe.
I plan to up the Annie as it were and see how it goes on a select group of brass.
JeepHammer
Moderator
Wider gap is less efficient, takes longer to reach target temp and heat creeps a little further down the case changing the heat effect zone a little.
I shaped the gap (Ceramic/tile saw) to get a more even heating of the case, opening up at the mouth to heat that thin mouth taper slower, while leaving the ceramic close and trimmed to fit the shoulder bends, that pretty much seemed to heat more evenly.
Looks kind of goofy, but seems to work pretty well.
The Giraud machine works pretty good for feeding/locating the brass, while adding fiberglass strips to locate brass precisely yields good results. The strips come from Giraud so cheap I haven't bothered to look for them anywhere else.
If you are building a jig to locate brass, you might have a look at the strips (or something similar) as an option.
I shaped the gap (Ceramic/tile saw) to get a more even heating of the case, opening up at the mouth to heat that thin mouth taper slower, while leaving the ceramic close and trimmed to fit the shoulder bends, that pretty much seemed to heat more evenly.
Looks kind of goofy, but seems to work pretty well.
The Giraud machine works pretty good for feeding/locating the brass, while adding fiberglass strips to locate brass precisely yields good results. The strips come from Giraud so cheap I haven't bothered to look for them anywhere else.
If you are building a jig to locate brass, you might have a look at the strips (or something similar) as an option.