An ideal "gunfighting" revolver.

Model 15/67 Combat Masterpiece,,,
Model 19/66 Combat Magnum.

Or simply a good Model 10.

There's not really much need to look further.
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I have been thinking along these lines also. I had a Model 19 back in the late seventies that I considered the most drop-dead-beautiful of all S&W revolvers...had to sell it to finance Grad School. The blue...the blue! It was a thing if beauty for sure.
 
For those Come to Jesus moments we all hope to never have to deal with, 3" K Frames, as others have pointed out, seem to fit the bill nicely. As would a 3" K Frame 681.

Taurus used to make a .44 spl about that size. Might be able to convert a S&W K frame to accomodate that chambering. That might limit you to 5 rds however... if it is feasible.
 
I have owned model 19 and a model 686... Neither handled as well as my model 15. There is a reason it is called the Combat Masterpiece.
 
You can get a model 10 in 6" and have a good smith do just about anything with it you could want, including cutting it down, adding sights, rails, etc.. I was going to suggest a model 14 cut down to 5". In fact, I have a model 14 6" barrel sitting on my kitchen counter top right now . . .
 
Your 696 S&W is an L-frame. A 3" barreled K-frame (Model 13/65) is about 31oz. My .45 cut down 1917 N-frame was just weighed at 35 1/4 oz. They are all about the same length, with a little extra "girth" on the N-frame. I just read that the S&W 696 is 36oz, just a tad HEAVIER than a cut down .45 1917, and I would imagine a .357 686 would be heavier, too.:D
 
Just a question to the OP? The L frame in the first post looks to be a 4" to my eye... Just want to make sure we are on the same page? Cuz I find 5" revolvers to be ideal length.
 
I conceal carry almost daily. I also shoot Defensive Pistol Matches with my revolvers every month. The 2 revolvers that I turn in the best times with are my 3" 66-2, and my 4" 64-2.
Of these two I conceal carry the 3 Inch 66-2 in a Lobo Enhanced Pancake with Optional Inner Hammer Shield quite a bit more than the 4" 64.

The 3" K or L Frame would be my pick for an all round carry gun. With a 3" most Models of S&W revolvers have a Full Length Ejector Rod. The 2 Inch and 2.5 Inch ones come with short rods. You get more positive ejection with the full length ejector rod.
Also a 3" Barrel is about as long as is handy to conceal carry year round for me. The 3" K is a little more compact, however I am sure I could manage a 3" 686 just fine. I do not own a 3" 686 for a simple reason. The new ones are all 686 Plus 7 shot models. Shooting matches using my carry guns is very important for me. I use Safariland Comp III speed loaders to load my K and L Frame 6 shooters. When you go to a 7 shooters you are back to the HKS Speed loaders which are not nearly as fast to reload with.
No I do not conceal carry the Comp III speed loaders. I do like to use them to beat up on the Combat Tupperware at the matches however.

Bob
 
Blue, four-inch, short shroud GP100 with fixed sights and a Meprolight dot up front- converted to 40/10mm using moon clips.
 
Just a question to the OP? The L frame in the first post looks to be a 4" to my eye... Just want to make sure we are on the same page? Cuz I find 5" revolvers to be ideal length.
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I must have had a senior moment when I measured it last...you are correct, I measured it again, and it is a 4".
 
I conceal carry almost daily. I also shoot Defensive Pistol Matches with my revolvers every month. The 2 revolvers that I turn in the best times with are my 3" 66-2, and my 4" 64-2.
Of these two I conceal carry the 3 Inch 66-2 in a Lobo Enhanced Pancake with Optional Inner Hammer Shield quite a bit more than the 4" 64.

The 3" K or L Frame would be my pick for an all round carry gun. With a 3" most Models of S&W revolvers have a Full Length Ejector Rod. The 2 Inch and 2.5 Inch ones come with short rods. You get more positive ejection with the full length ejector rod.
Also a 3" Barrel is about as long as is handy to conceal carry year round for me. The 3" K is a little more compact, however I am sure I could manage a 3" 686 just fine. I do not own a 3" 686 for a simple reason. The new ones are all 686 Plus 7 shot models. Shooting matches using my carry guns is very important for me. I use Safariland Comp III speed loaders to load my K and L Frame 6 shooters. When you go to a 7 shooters you are back to the HKS Speed loaders which are not nearly as fast to reload with.
No I do not conceal carry the Comp III speed loaders. I do like to use them to beat up on the Combat Tupperware at the matches however.
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Thanks for your comments. However, as I originally posted, the purpose I am considering is for my back-yard range shooting, for the purpose of quick-draw (strictly fanticy...not real self-defense gun-fighting). My current guns are a little to heavy to "snatch and shoot". That is why I am considering a K frame. As for three inchers, I have a wonderful 3 inch 696 (.44 spl., 5 shot). When I fill the niche for the snatch and shoot, and after tuning, it will be shot a whole lot (rapid double action only) at a steel target. My carry at this stage in life (old), is a snubby in a pocket holster.
 
Bunches of Cowboys for years have been pretty successful with a pair of these...:D
 

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I am begining to lean towards a S&W 60 with a 3in. barrel for its weight advantage over the K frame...and round butt. Now, the problem will be to find one. I wonder if they were ever made without the internal lock.
 
My Speed Six...

attachment.php


The one on the bottom left...

Did my action job, Secret Service stocks, rounded the hammer so it won't bite if I cock it, and cleaned up the sights.


BUT any of these will do!

M66-3 M686-3
Speed Six Security Six

Deaf
 

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Not much mention of the Model 36 or the like even though this revolver would likely be pressed into action in many an instance since so many are carried!
I just bought a Bobbed Hammer Nickled Model 36 as a personal revolver to carry and defend my family and self with.
Yes I know the limits of the .38 Special, but these are the same details that endear it to me. control and accuracy are it's strong points and with much pratice, I should become minimally proficent with it. I plan weekly sessions of pratice centering on 7 yard courses of fire with a sprinkling of 3 yard point shooting sessions mixed in.
I won't feel undergunned with the little 36 due to becoming very familliar with it.
I consider Civillian carry and use differentlly than Police use. Hopefully in the Civillian sequence, the gun will never be needed. If it is I am supposing that the 2 1/2 (3 actually) shot confrontation will be the norm. The remaining 2 shots are reserved for a head shot.
Please, if you have any opnions of the .38Special Model 36, post here!
ZVP
 
If I were building a gunfighting revolver, it would ideally have a 4" barrel, 5" max, 3" minimum. I'd want it to be quick handling--so not too large & heavy. DAO would be my preference for trigger action.

I'd be inclined to go with fixed sights, not adjustable and I'd want something set up for moonclips--both for reloading speed and maximum ejection reliability.
 
Sorry, but I don't think you hit the criteria for the ideal gunfighting revolver.

Get an Airweight, and it will serve you well.

"Ideal gunfighting revolver" is the N-Frame S&W 327 R8.
 
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