aluminum 1911, steel ramp replacement? ...

ramp

Sir;
I've fixed these before; Mill straight down taking the old ramp clear out and insert a piece of drill rod (shrink fit) and then pin it. Reshape to original specs - will never move or wear. It doesn't hurt to use red loc-tite with the pin.
Harry B.
 
Now hold yer horses

Most feeding issues a usually not feed ramp /frame issues but a poorly regulated magazine. If the slide is driving the bullet nose into the feeding ramp isn't pointed in the wrong direction? It should be pointed up towards the upper top middle of the chamber. Your magazines might need to be reshaped a tad using the magazine reforming tool. Can be bought online from midway or brownell

Next a ramped barrel fixes most problems, including running super hot loads that is how they got started. But really with slide removed How much gap do you have between the bottom rear of the barrel and the ramp should be around 1/32 of an inch or as close to .0315 as possible if it is great then file the back of the barrel down to it sets back that far rear lug located on bottom of barrel just in back of the link pin . After this file works is done on the rear lug face.

Remember as ways modify an inexpensive part first in this case a magazine, then a barrel. Mag less the $50, Barrel less then $200, frames ? Lots more

Then if all these tips don't work replace the ramp. Chances are one of these tricks will work.

:)
 
Most feeding issues a usually not feed ramp /frame issues but a poorly regulated magazine. If the slide is driving the bullet nose into the feeding ramp isn't pointed in the wrong direction? It should be pointed up towards the upper top middle of the chamber. Your magazines might need to be reshaped a tad using the magazine reforming tool. Can be bought online from midway or brownell

Next a ramped barrel fixes most problems, including running super hot loads that is how they got started. But really with slide removed How much gap do you have between the bottom rear of the barrel and the ramp should be around 1/32 of an inch or as close to .0315 as possible if it is great then file the back of the barrel down to it sets back that far rear lug located on bottom of barrel just in back of the link pin . After this file works is done on the rear lug face.

Remember as ways modify an inexpensive part first in this case a magazine, then a barrel. Mag less the $50, Barrel less then $200, frames ? Lots more

Then if all these tips don't work replace the ramp. Chances are one of these tricks will work.

1. they dont sell ramped barrels for this model that i've been able to find, so a custom barrel is more than $200

2. i've run this through will ALL my 1911 mags and all of them, now with traditional hollow points hang up on the dimple in the feed famp. these mag include wilson combat, colt, kimber, chip mccormick, ect.

3. the anodized coating of the aluminum is worn through exposing the soft aluminum, so that problem MUST be corrected period.

4. the ramp to barrel gap is correct

5. im already invested on the idea of cutting out the ramp and replacing it with steel so at the very least i wont have a worn through anodized coating ever again on the feed ramp

6. when jacking a round slowly then visually the round is pointed where its supposed to be. obviously i cant tell at full speed


when i get back from Haiti i will have some time off to go into the shop, and i will cut away at the ramp and insert the steel. ill do a big pic post of all that in about 5 months (when i get back and get it done)

Harry Bonar
thats pretty much what is going to happen except i wont have to shape the ramp to much as its a prefab part, other than fitting
 
May not be the hollow points doing it, I've seen mag followers chew up feed ramps also. The folded metal followers have nothing to keep it from nibbling away at the feed ramp. Can you post a pic of your magazines?
 
plastic followers on all my wilson comat mags - which are the only mags that go in the kimber.

-i need to pick some up for my Colt New Agent- im still rocken the colt mags with that, but they have the metal followers-

also i've had fail to feeds where the hollow point is just hung up on the feed ramp with the lip of the bullet just buried into the aluminum
 
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How is this for an idea: If you suspect your aluminum frame has a worn out feed ramp, get a batch of steel or bronze filled epoxy and repllace what you think is worn away. It might take a little filing to get it right and we KNOW this won't be a permanent repair, but it should confirm whether the issue is a worn out feed ramp or something else.

Thoughts?
- Ivan.
 
it might be worth looking into, just to see what the problem is. for somebody who doesn't want to shell out for gunsmithing, but it'll still need to be fixed anyway.

personally i'm committed to just tear out the old and go with steel ramp!
and keep using my plastic followers
 
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